▼ (> w V $4* A WOMAN'S WINTER IN AFRICA A WOMAN'S WINTER IN AFRICA A 26,000 MILE JOURNEY BY CHARLOTTE CAMERON AUTHOR OF MARRAQUITTA OF MONTE CARLO," "a PASSION IN MOROCCO' "a woman's winter in south America' " a durbar bride" LONDON STANLEY PAUL 6- CO. 31 ESSEX STREET, STRAND, W.C. First published in 1Q13 TO MY GERMAN FRIENDS I THANK you for your kindness friends, Your ready smiles — your gladdening hands That cheered a travelling woman's way Through spaces of your lonely lands. Know this — although I meet again And breathe an English summer's blue, My English heart is shaking hands With the dear German hearts of you. — C. C. A FOREWORD [" F in the pages of this book I have been tempted to praise -*- foreign ships and methods more than is conducive to insular complacency to English ideas, the feeling of justice — which is inherent in the English race — and my conscientiousness in endeavouring to place true facts before the public compel me to give honour to whom honour is due. f wish to add that this book is in no way historical, statistical, or political — simply the impressions of a woman traveller. CHARLOTTE CAMERON. CONTENTS CHAPTER I. Looping the Loop in Africa . PAGE "7 II. The "Start'' . 20 III. Christmas Day in Lisbon 24 IV. Tangier . • • 27 V. Marseilles . • • 30 VI. Naples . • • • 33 VII. Vignettes of Pompeii . . 36 VIII. Port Said . . • • 4i IX. Down the East Coast . 52 X. Tanga 60 XL Dar-es-Salaam 65 XII. Zanzibar . 76 XIII. Portuguese Nyasaland — Pemba Bay and Port Amelie . 81 XIV. Mozambique . 89 XV. Beira . . . ■ • 96 XVI. Beira— Train Journey to Victoria Falls 106 XVII. Victoria Falls . • • • 117 XVIII. Zambesi and Rain Forest 123 XIX. Bulawayo ... 128 XX. Salisbury ... 139 XXI. Lourenco Marques 143 XXII. Durban ... 147 XXIII. East London . 162 XXIV. Port Elizabeth . • ■ . 167 XXV. Captain Fielder and the s s. "General" • 173 XXVI. Cape Town . . 176 XXVII. Motoring Around Table Mountain . 182 I I Content 5 CHAPTER PAGK XXVIII. Robben Island . 186 XXIX. LUNCH ON THE " TABORA :' . 202 XXX. Rhodes Memorial . . 205 XXXI. West Coast and Port Nolloth 210 XXXII. LlJKDERlTZBUCHT . 215 XXXIII. Coi.MANSKor Diamond Fields ■ 223 XXXIV. Arrival at Swakopmund ■ 231 XXXV. Walfish Bay • 233 XXXVI. En Route to Windhuk • 245 XXXVII. Windhuk (The Mount of Wind), SO CALLED by the Natives . 2 C2 XXXVIII. Swakopmund . 267 XXXIX. "Steiermark" : Life on a Cargo-f.o. \T . . 272 XL. The Captain and I Pay Visits 278 XLI. Libreville, French Congo . . 286 XLII. The Cameroons • 3°° XLIII. DUALA • 3°6 XLIV. Kribi ■ 323 XLV. A Call on an English Ship • 336 XLVI. Lagos . 342 XLVII. Lagos ■ 356 XLVI 1 1. Lome, Togoland • 362 XLIX. Accra . . 367 L. Seccondee . • 37o LI. Grand Bassam— Ivory Coast • 375 LII. Liberia • • 378 LIII. Freetown, Sierra Leone • • 383 LIV. Conakry, French Guinea • • 389 LV. The Island • 395 LVI. Homeward . . 400 12 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Map of Africa Mrs. Cameron's Ticket Around Africa Southampton Docks . S.S. Adolpli Woermann A Famous Square, Lisbon A Mango Tree Tangier from the Hill Native Woman Weaving- Cloth S.S. Adolpli Woermann going across the The Port, Naples A Tropical Forest Scene Favourite Horse of Sheikh Abdel el-Bas The Garden of the "Sit," Fayum A Princess of the Bedouins, Fayum Some of the Sheikh's Houses, Fgypt Pigeon Houses, Fayum Distant View of Aden A Country Scene Ancient Portuguese Gateway, Mombasa Lion Attacking Zebra Snake at Home Hospital, Tanga Grand Hotel, Tanga . A Tanga Beauty General View of Dar-es-Salaam Street in Dar-es-Salaam Secretary of State's Visit to Dar-es-Sal Mrs. Henry with " Darsallar" the Mon Catholic Church, Dares-Salaam Street Scene in Native Town A Monster Silk Cotton Tree Pemba Bay and Port Amelie Ivory Dealers, Port Amelie Main Street, Port Amelie Native Life . Springbok Resting Native Homes Fronti Bar at L sel, Fayu i.i am ey sbon in Slorm "piece PAGE iS 21 23 24 26 29 31 32 34 39 42 43 44 46 48 5° 53 56 57 59 61 62 64 67 68 69 73 74 77 79 81 84 87 91 93 97 13 List of Illustrations A Large Family at Beira A Group of Natives . S.S. Eleonore Woermann View of Country Life Victoria Falls Station Victoria Falls Victoria Falls The " Boiling- Pot " . View of Bridge and Valley Victoria Falls Hotel . Gardens, Victoria Falls Hotel . Karmi Ruins, near Bulawayo . Cecil Rhodes' Grave . Rhodes' Grave Maxim Monument Native Life . Rickshaw Boys Rickshaw Boys at Durban Gathering Cocoanuts Durban Beach Mariannhill. Trappist Monks . Dining-room of the Trappists . An Ostrich Farm Residential Quarter . In Memory of the Animals which Perish West African Negroes Tilling a Field Cape Town from the Distance . Cape Town with Lion Mountain Sea Point A View from the Mount Nelson Hotel Stoep of Groote Schuur Inside Leper Chapel . Robben Island Settlement Main Street, Robben Island Church for the Sufferers Native Woman Carrying Twins Swimming Bath, s.s. Tabora H. E. Frau Schnee, Captain Doherr, and Cecil Rhodes' Residence Rhodes Memorial. Watts' Statue " Phj Hereros, German SouthAVest Africa Missionary Station, Liiederitzbucht Liiederitzbucht Liiederitzbucht Shops Liiederitzbucht The Cathedral, and Mr. Henning's Hon Principal Street, Liiederitzbucht ed in the Boer Wa Mrs. We Ent inligf rgy PAGE 99 103 io5 "3 116 119 120 122 124 125 126 129 131 i33 i34 '4' 145 148 LSI 153 LS6 159 165 167 '7i 175 176 178 180 183 •85 187 i9[ '93 195 '97 202 203 205 208 213 2I5 217 218 219 220 221 H List of Illustrations Our Carriage for Colmanskop . At the Diamond Mines The Mayor, Herr Kreplin ; and II. M. Consul, Mi Diamond-washing Machines Kaiserhof Hotel Footprints on the "Sands of Time," Walfish Baj The Resident's House with British Flag Resident's House and Hottentot Church An Aged Hottentot, . The Church of the drunken Hottentots Walfish Bay Landing Pier Gambling Hottentots Street Scene, Windhuk Usakos Karibib Railway Station, Windhuk Windhuk . Ovambos Windhuk Memorial to the Herero War . Windhuk Travel in German South-West Africa Travel in Ovamboland Bushmen's Paintings on Mountain near Windhuk Memorial for those who fell in the Hereto War Swakopmund Kaiserhof Hotel Lighthouse, Swakopmund Street Scene, Swakopmund Principal Street, Swakopmund . Shops, Swakopmund . Sieiermark Danish Cargo-boat Mahogany Logs, Gaboon River Gaboon River Ovambo Woman and Children A Typical West African Market Market and Principal Street, Libreville Washing Clothes at Lagos, Nigeria Springbok Jumping . Pontocks of the Hottentots Scene at Duala, Cameroons Natives Embarking at Duala . Ju-jus in the Making, Cameroons Villa at Victoria Traders' Establishment, Duala Mull PAGE 2 2,3 224 227 22<) 23 > 233 235 237 239 240 242 243 246 248 249 252 253 255 257 25* 259 263 264 265 266 267 268 26S 269 270 271 272 2 73 275 278 28 [ 285 289 295 297 299 3° 1 3°3 3°5 306 308 15 List of Illustrations Landing Pier, Duala . Cameroon River Manga Bell's Palace, Duala . Natives Assembled to Welcome Ex-King Bell on his I Germany Catholic Church, Duala Point and Part of Residential Quarter, D Surf and Lighthouse at Kribi and Tennis Club King' Bell's Triumphant Progress throng panied by his favourite Ju-jus Kribi from the Sea Cannibal Rubber Carriers Plantation Process of Making a Ju-ju Monument to Major Dominik, Kribi Cemetery at Duala Market, Duala The Marina, Lagos . Life on the Lagos River Government House from the Race-track Government Offices, Lagos A Nigerian Chief with his retinue A Part of the Native Town, Lagos Flagstaff, Government House A Ju-ju Market, Southern Nigeria The Life-boat, Lagos Lome, Togoland Natives Seccondee Cape Coast Castle A Native Chief Freetown, Sierra Leone Freetown Main Street, Freetown Conakry Beach and Lighthouse Principal Thoroughfare, Conakry Conakry Ox-sleigh, Madeira The Authoress and Flowers sent by Captain Schiitt Mrs. Charlotte Cameron Political Map of Africa uala h the Streets of D uala accom el urn PAGE 3°9 3" 3^3 3'5 3,6 3'7 319 32 1 313 327 329 33 ' 333 335 336 34 2 345 347 350 35' 353 356 359 361 369 371 J/ J 38i 383 385 387 39° 39 ' 393 397 399 401 At end 16 A WOMAN'S WINTER * * * IN AFRICA * * * C 1 1 A P T E R I Looping tJic Loop in Africa WHERE are we going this winter? ' jauntily asks the " Imp of Travel" as it perches itself on my shoulder, peering over a writing-desk untidily heaped with MSS., cards of invitation, implying social, literary, and political events, and in- numerable unanswered letters which I am endeavouring to get through. " ' Imp,' we cannot go this year. I have not finished my work. There's a novel only half completed, besides, my article on the Eayum, and you know how I like to organize whatever I set out to do," I answered wearily. But the suggestion by the Spirit of Travel who was born with me, and has been my constant companion ever since, reawakens old memories. The winter is approaching, outside the gardener is planting hundreds of bulbs in my Hampstead garden ; before long their lovely faces will be kissed by soft spring breezes ; if I remain in London all the winter my work will be finished and my friends delighted not to lose my comradeship. I whisper to this inspiring " Imp " : ' The weather has been so fine it's not necessary for my health." It is not content, and the gargoyle face (as 1 always picture the sprite) falls into non-pleasing wrinkles. " You attended the Durbar at Delhi last year, you passed the remainder of the season on the Nile, and said you enjoyed your- self. The winter before I took you on a 23,000-mile voyage, B 17 A Woman's Winter in Africa and the result was that you were the first woman to write a book on the entire coast of South America, including the Transandean Railway and the Panama Canal. You would not have accom- plished fall this if you had wasted time on your social friends. Litt. C. -J r RETURI "/W*^^4^^»«^^t^' «-^rt \\?i£ Sl*3& 4 $«b£ Is m 4f /•&v5 ersten Kfasse mit dem B. P. D. fl^fost c/uss of Uia J. A/. S. d vtejerfialb /2 litbnate nach Antritt dry Reis d loitmn /*' months ufl^r stantft/j ouai from 4J . via .JjJILaC -£<r it *-£&jtfsrJieii Ost-Afrika-fsinie, of //tes£ I (V<^vSv>/2<<f//p Aifaftrt von J;..". -**$■«# ij<J'' oj Oepartjtre from m '% * <zn\ den. Z..M yvwvi f-O**- ^^fr~+*^-C- t*T*nd~ \.o-u/vti-eJ,^ HrB.A.l.. ^..j,. o lt*1 KET. ">- ' /' 3W2^. y^< vruJ .*&— fur the pawaQO <~B~ ffaupt- mit einem Dmnpfer dw **{<?*'* LtntA by a steams? of the Sftwmfoil- 4*m- MRS. CAMERON S TICKET AROUND AFRICA. Black centre lines denote where it was pasted together, as at the end of the trip the ticket was quite worn out. Besides, you would never have accumulated those emit is for which your house is famous if I had not helped you." ' Imp " casts a sorrowful look and vanishes. 1 go on with my writing. Time flics. I must close. The car is at the door, and 1 8 I ,ooping the Loop in Africa my promise lias been given to appear at two receptions this after- noon, besides dining out and going to a theatre. Lying back as I speed along, visions of resl , calm or angry seas, strange poi ts, new people, adventure appear like Wm'y clouds and presenl enticing pictures. I soliloquize. Londoners are always the same. To-day it will be the same houses, the same sets, and practically the same conversations. The " Imp " has returned, he is threatening now. " Suppose your old lover bronchitis appears and sits upon your chest , refusing to leave you, vampire that he is. You have escaped him thus far, I realize, but he will probably be here just as soon as the fogs set in, which will be any day now. Then you will be forced to escape him, and maybe he would only allow you to go to the Riviera, and you don't care much for that. You have often been there. " I'll tell you," confides " Imp." " You and I will take a long sea voyage. We will loop the loop around Africa. You will be in the sunshine all the time, and I'll be with you to point out things. Perhaps you will write a book, and let the ' stay-at- homes ' see the lovely places through your eyes ; or, better still, you may do some good by letting other people know of delightful voyages along pleasant shores." Some two weeks pass ; ' Imp " has been victorious. My passage has been taken for the entire coast of Africa from South- ampton back to Southampton, via East Coast, West Coast, with a peep at the Victoria Falls and a visit to many places in Rhodesia I sail December 19th on the Adolph Woermann, Deutsche Ost Atrika Linie. My passage money, covering a six months' voyage on as many ships as may be necessary, has amounted to /Too 5s , which, con- sidering the thousands of miles over which they have guaranteed to take me, cannot be considered excessive. 19 CH APTE R I I The Start A WEEK before the date of my proposed voyage I attended a dinner-party. It was a cold, damp night, and when I awoke next morning my detested and persistent lover held me in a firm grip. Bronchitis, thinking he was to be cheated of his annual prey, refused to be pushed aside, withstanding all my clever doctor's efforts. Then the good news came. The Adolpli Woermann had been delayed in Hamburg and would not sail for two days. What a relief ! Perhaps by that time my hated lover would relent and permit me to go. Even " Imp " was sympathetic, and said, " Poor you ! But chser up. If you fight well, and we can once sail into the fresh sea air, Bronkie can't follow, and you will be all right." The actual day for departure arrived, and in a very weakened state I left my room. ' Imp " took possession of me, and really had " It " not encouraged and pushed me on, so to speak, I don't know whether I should ever have arrived at Waterloo. At last I found myself speeding towards Southampton. It was wearisome to an invalid, but my one prevailing thought was : ' Be brave until you board the ship." I would not let myself dwell upon how I felt ! ' Imp " whispers, " Quite right." Arriving at Southampton, I was told that the ship was expected about four, and we were to be ready by that time for the tender. A handful of passengers assembled and sat in the small stuffy saloon for four hours always hoping for news of our missing Adolpli. Of course, there was much speculation as to what had become of the ship. People got restive ; there was no tea. Nothing available but patience. In my weak state I felt that I was beginning to start on a longer journey — that from which no traveller has ever yet returned. If one could only go to heaven' and come back with a graphic and perfect description of that unknown world, how publishers would crowd around one ! 20 The Start Everything ends in time, and shortly after 9 p.m. we were floating down beautiful Southampton Water, which looked like a road paved with silver horseshoes. The lights of t lie town dimmed and blinked behind us, and each eye on deck was strained Channelwards, trying to discern amongst the distant trembling stars dancing mysteriously upon the water which was our belated errant Adolf)!;. But he had not forsaken us — although late he kept his appointment. A ship is usually spoken of in the feminine gender, if seems a little awkward "She" and " Adolph ! ' SOUTHAMPTON DOCKS. There must have bee a a mistake at his christening. However, at last, when we actually crept into the heart of Adolph, we found a beautifully clean, comfortable ship. It was brilliantly lighted, everything cosy and warm. On deck the band was playing a cheerful welcome. I gave a hurried glance round and quickly sought my cabin, leaving " Imp " to investigate and obtain news " It " returned, quite satisfied with the general arrangements, and I closed my eyes exhausted. The next morning at eight I awoke to the strains of soft music playing a few bars of a German hymn. ' Imp" declared it* a pretty idea, and I agreed. On Sunday morning the notes of 21 A Woman's Winter in Africa ' Nearer, my God, to Thee ' floated through the alleys. My thoughts flew to the terrible catastrophe of the Titanic. Fortun- ately for us, the situation was entirely different, and the hymn breathed only peace and happiness. Already I feel much better, having left the bronchitis friend behind. ' Imp " uses the old familiar " I told you so." The sea is beautifully calm, and warm sunshine floods the decks. The ship and cabins are all that anyone could desire, the food abundant and excellent. I have met four charming English people, and we have a small table together. The Germans sit at the large centre table, presided over by genial Captain Iversen, who is already beloved by us all. His never- failing kindness and his anxiety for the comfort of his passengers could not fail to be appreciated. On Christmas Eve there was the ever-popular tree, glistening with coloured candles and pretty things ; carols were sung, there was a dinner of traditional menu ; and the band gave us a splendid concert in the evening. As an example of how small the world is, two of my new English friends, Mr. and Mrs. Wexelsen, knew both coasts of Africa by heart. Several times they have gone over the route which I have chosen to travel. They have very kindly given me much valuable information. I feel quite terrified as they paint the discomforts of the West Coast. They tell me that the ships will be small, unclean, slow ; that in many places there is no hotel accommodation whatever, and on several occasions they have been obliged to sleep in trucks. Altogether their description is disenchantingly graphic. This naturally is rather appalling, and makes me apprehensive of my fate. ' Imp," how- ever, who is always listening, declares with stubborn voice : " You're not to borrow troubles. You haven't got there yet, and you had better enjoy yourself now and leave the future to take care of itself." Mr. and Mrs. Wexelsen left us at Tangier and afterwards made an extended tour of the entire coasts of Africa. They were the first to show cinematograph performances in the African continent, and they brought the first electric light apparatus to Salisbury, Beira, and Umtali. The Woermann Line is unique" in the history of shipping, inas- much as the ships are named after members of the Woermann family. I believe it is the only line in the world which follows this sensible and pretty custom. Carl Woermann was its founder. He migrated from Bielefeld to 22 The Start Hamburg, and in [847 slatted with sailing ships ; two years lab r establishing a cargo trade on the Wes1 Coasl of Africa. the greal pioneer Miss Mary Kingsley women travellers, t he far-away rivers ^* 1 mentions several of the Woermann factories up of that coast. It was in 1887 that the lust steamer was added to the Hue. Carl , lli e founder, died, and was suc- ceeded by lus son Adolph, whom Bis- marck called " A Pi ince of Merchants." A splendidly ex- ecuted bronze bust of Adolph Woermann a- dorns the smoking-room of this ship. It might have been said of him that he ruled wisely and well ; un- fortunately Ik- died in May, 1 () 1 1 . His wife, Gertrude Woermann, has given in memory of her husband their town mansion at Hamburg as a Club for Captains' recreation, and generously endowed it for future maintenance. The present heads of the Firm are Mr. Edward Woermann, Mr. Ritter, and Mr. Arnold Amsinck, an amalgamation having taken place of the Woermann Line with the Deutsche Ost Afrika Linie. S.S. ADOLI'H WOERMANN. Mrs. Cameron, Capt. Iversen, and Mrs. Henry. C H A P TER III ( liristmas Day in Lisbon MY first view as I looked out of the port was of the forbidding sides of three warships whose blatant red and green flags with the ensign of the Republic recalled the ever-lamentable tragedy of Black Horse Square, when King Carlos and the Crown Prince gave up their lives to an ungrateful country- — a country which even after the great sacrifice still throbs to the tune of revolution. Being a holiday all business places were closed, and it was amusing to see flocks of turkeys driven along the streets, guarded by peasants, who wore knitted pull-down caps from which dangled huge woollen tassels. They were carrying their wares and has- tening to the market- place. Obviously the Portuguese keep Christmas night for their feasting. The turkeys, either from their long walk or con- scious of their doom, looked thin and miserable. Another curious street scene, and this in the celebrated and most fashionable Avenida de Libertade, were two well-fed cows ^4 fWEA A FAMOUS SQUARE, LISBON. Christmas I )av in I ,isbon warmly wrapped up in blankets being milked standing before a mansion. A short distance behind waited a sofMurred black and white calf of a lew months old, over his nose being tied a deep tin cup, in older to prevent his claiming his birthright, viz. the mother's nourishment. The Avenida, the beauty street of Lisbon, basked in sunshine, the atmosphere of our June days, and one fell to wondering what the weather was like at home. Imp " thought we should go to a Bull Fight, as the placards announced an especially grand one ; but I immediately forbade ' Imp " even to think of it. 1 saw one once at Monte Video, and never wish to witness another. There being nothing to be seen in the Rua Aurea, famous for its shops, I took a taxi, which con- veyances at Lisbon are exceptionally clean and up-to-date, and went to admire once again the Cloisters of the Convents dos Jeronimoz at Belim. The beautiful lacelike carvings, and impres- sive example of baroque Gothic, are reminkesnt of the chapel at Monreale. In this church is the magnificent tomb of Vasco da Gama, the discoverer of the Indies. Returning by the Palace and through the principal streets, I drove to the Restaurant Tavares, where the food is excellent and the prices reasonable. As the ship stayed only six hours it was now time to seek the Quay. Sailing down the Tagus, Lisbon stretched out in the sunshine on its low hills, with the dark granite Cintra Mountains as a background, making a splendid picture. Among our new passengers was a gentleman, a keen Royalist, who held a prominent place in the political and social world at Lisbon. He confided to me the following. An official of the Government came to him about a month previously and said : " Do von not find it very warm here ? ' My friend, astonished, replied, " Warm ! Why ? ' The official remarked, ' Oh, 1 thought you might be taking a trip abroad ? ' My friend was naturally perturbed, and a little nonplussed — worried also, for he had a beloved wife and two small children. A friend of his had been warned in much the same manner — and had defied the official, announcing that he had no intention of leaving his country. A few weeks after, as he was about to enter his house, he was surrounded by five men and brutally shot. If yen are a Royalist at the present time in Portugal you are liable to arrest, and with slight proof you are condemned to six years' solitary confinement at a prison in Lisbon. Should you survive this adamantine A Woman's Winter in Africa sentence you are transported to the penal settlement of Portuguese East Africa, to undergo a further nine years of misery. My friend informs me that one charming and charitable Countess had this judgment passed upon her. A short time elapsed, and the same official appeared again and interviewed my friend, with practically the same suggestions. ,^v A m \m;o tree. He, bearing in mind the fate which had been dealt out to the other man, arranged his affairs as best he could and exiled himself from his native land. He hopes even- tually to establish a cotton plantation in British East Africa, send for his family, and reconstruct a home under the English flat l8- He tells me that three-quarters of the Portuguese nation are Royalists at heart, but dread fear suppresses their enthusiasm. 26 C 1 1 A P T E R 1 V Tangier THE gangway is affixed to its proper place, the turbulent water laps the sides of the ship, and we in the agent's boat, with its yellow flag, are rapidly lengthening the distance between us and the ship. Tangier has a cadmium-coloured sun, which is about to go to rest behind her hills ; and as the last rays touch the congested native town they light up the prismatically coloured houses and windows, reminding one of a lire opal. Politically speaking, this town, which was part of the dowry of Catharine of Braganza to Charles the Second, leaves much to be desired in the way of cleanliness, civilization, and safety. That its true Orientalism is fascinating everyone knows, for not even in Baghdad will one find a more heterogeneous mixture. Boys in rags, old hags with vile wrinkled faces, handsome Moors riding magnificent horses, donkeys heavily laden and covered with sores which their drivers delight to probe and whack, men with red turbans and white burnouses, and veiled women re- sembling bundles of wool fill the streets, to the dismay of the traveller, who feels he has been reincarnated into a strange world of colour, dirt, and wonderment. Overhead the sky is pure azure. No cloud mitigated the clearness which lit up the vividly coloured buildings. Sometimes one caught glimpses of shady courtyards and arabesque-carved arches, through which the ripe oranges gleamed against dark leaves, and tall palms threw restful shade, infinitely preferable to the noisy main thoroughfare, where howling voices besought one to buy beads, swords, burnouses, haiks, embroidery, leather pockets, and so forth. The horrible prison I visited. Even " Imp," who is ewer with me, acknowledged the place was decidedly " smelly." Here humanity reeks in tilth, and through holes in the wall the miserable prisoners push their outstretched palms begging for money or food. 27 A Woman's Winter in Africa The guide gave them some small coins, and we were glad to turn towards something more pleasant. The Government of Morocco do not feed their prisoners ; therefore, if they have no friends to assist them, they starve. Another cruel scene which Imp" and I witnessed was this: As we were walking down to the Quay I noted a dark object suspended in the air, which I took to be a dead cow. I paused to watch, and found that from a boat below they were unloading live cattle. It was most appalling, the maimer and useless intense cruelty with which it was done. Ropes were slung around the horns of three of the cattle at a time ; then a derrick or crane slowly lifted them, poising the burden several minutes in the air, then letting them down with a bump. The cattle were stupefied with the pain they endured, and quite a long period elapsed before they regained a footing. This practice of raising cattle used to be carried on in South America, but now the authorities forbid it, as often the horns were pulled out by their bleeding roots from the head, which damaged the value of the beast. Now they are landed quite comfortably by a thick, wide band which passes under the body. It would seem that the Barbary States still live up to their reputation. 28 , } iflStJ V. < CHAPTER V Marseilles WE arrive early in the morning of the 29th, and do not leave until three o'clock in the afternoon. ' You're to have a holiday," jocundly announces " Imp." Its little ugly face appears a bit more wrinkled as in imagination I see its grin. ' Yes," it continues, " everybody who has left the nursery knows Marseilles by heart." ' The Charing Cross for ships," I suggest. " Now don't say that," implored the " Imp," ' it's been harped upon for ages. Whatever else you do, be original. Pretty soon you will be going into exuberances about the lovely Corniche Drive ; the Restaurant de la Reserve ; Chateau d'lf, the Count of Monte Cristo ; bouilla- baisse, the famous dish of the Midi ; Notre Dame de la Garde, with its silver hearts and left off crutches. I should not wonder if you started to write about Thomas Cook and Son next — nothing can stop yon when you are in the descriptive mood. Now come on. 1 am going to take you to lunch at the Louvre de la Paix, and afterward^ we shall go to an old church hidden away in a back street. There I will show yon a gargoyle which resembles me. I inhabited it before my reincarnation." ' Imp " is arrogant and jubilant. We get into a cab and go bounding over cobble-stones and tram-lines to the city. I had a card to Mr. William Carr, one of the most popular and well-known personalities of Marseilles. Rarely a ship enters the port in the course of commerce but Mr. Carr acts the role of host to receive and welcome. Then he is the last man to leave and to wave his adieux from the Quay. Mr. Carr migrated to Marseilles some forty years ago from Yorkshire (our big and bonny county). Not only does he represent several Shipping Companies, but in his day has been one of the Syndic of Commerce. On my return to the ship Mr. Carr not only presented himself, but introduced to me two genial friends of his, Mr. Bruce from Scotland and Mr. Percy Marsden from Condon. The latter for years has been a celebrity 30 Marseilles on the Stock Exchange, is not< <1 also as ;i clever financier, also for his truly remarkable likeness to our beloved laic King, Edward lie Peacemaker. Ii is marvellous the comradeship of travel. In a few moments we were talking as gaily as if we had known each other for years. Mr. Marsden knew many of my friends in the metropolis. News of the flotsam and jetsam of life was demanded, names recalled which had passed into the shadows, and the successful flamboyanl lives of Others were discussed. It always strikes me anew, the fact that on board ship, owing to the continual presence of people, in one week you know more of their temperament and environment than in a big city with an acquaintanceship of five years. Marseilles is left behind ; the grey walls of the Chateau d'lf loom in pic- t uresque grandeur against the sky that is a symphony of greys. We have twenty-five new- passengers, so to night at dinner ther: is much more life and gaiety. Stewards instead of stand- ing by and watching sixteen people masti- cate their food, fly about entirely busy with their own duties. " Imp " de- clares : "It is good that more English have arrived," and confesses, "it would have been lonely for me with only two <£^S«£ German ladies who native womam weaving cloth. A Woman's Winter in Africa don't speak my language." Alas ! I fear most of these people are leaving the ship at Port Said for Egypt ; their clothes and appearance suggest fashionable Assouan, Luxor, and Cairo. It is most interesting to meet the new travellers, and to ask where they are going, and their views on life and experiences. A representative young English couple are going home to Khartoum. They give us a graphic description of their life there ; and the early morning rides over the desert sound most delightful. Several are bound for Cairo solely on a pleasure expedition, and have never before seen the fascination of the Sphinx and Egyptian glories. I envy them their first view and impressions of S.S. " ADOLI'H WOERMAXN GOING ACROSS THE ISAR AT LISBON IN STORM. this wonderful country, the Eldorado of history and luxury. To my mind there is no Winter resort which caters for all tastes as does Egypt. I have passed some five or six winters there, and the spell is still upon me. At dinner Mr. Marsden, who has just left Monte Carlo, told the following story : A gentleman rushed into the Casino and put the maximum on No. 18. It won ! When his friend asked him why he did it, he explained, his hands still full of notes, " Well, I intended to back the number of my private cabin in crossing from Dover to Calais, but I forgot it. Then I tried to remember the number of my railway carriage — in this I also failed. Nevertheless, I recollected that I was sick three times, so I thought, three sicks — 18 — that was why I backed it." 32 CHAPTER VI Naples NAPLES was clothed in blue-grey tissue which veiled Vesu- vius like a prospective bride as the Adolph Woermann steamed to the quay in the early morning. Our immediate neighbour is the s.s. Taormina, an Italian troop-ship just returned from Tripoli. There are something like 1500 soldiers on board, who have seen a year's service at the seat of war. They are a fine, sturdy, bronzed lot. Their lusty cheers — in which one catches the name of Allah! Allah! -their gay laughter and snatches of song portrav their unmitigated joy at being restored to their native land, and the happy reunion with their families a nearly accomplished fact. The troop-ship appear^ very crowded, for not only is the deck a concrete mass of men, but all along the several lines, each port frames a smiling soldier's face. The bright sails of feluccas flit past us in a maddening haste to reach their destination. Through the kindness of Mr. Bruce, a well-known shipowner from Glasgow, Mr. Marsden and myself are invited to the office cf Signor de Luca, who is not only the most representative ship- broker in Naples, but gallantly takes on the duties of Consul- General for Belgium as well. Here, as good friends of Mr. Bruce, we were received with true Neapolitan hospitality. A luxurious motor-car was placed at our disposal, and a drive to Pompeii was suggested. While we were waiting for the arrival of the car — I know very little of shipbrokers' offices —it afforded me great interest to watch the continual meetings and exodus of captains and shipmen. Signor de Luca, with his unfailing geniality, gave a hearty handshake, farewell, and God bless you, to tall and stalwart, thin and lithe, short and thick-set men who follow the sea. Now around his desk assembles a sort of court martial. A young Belgian sailor refuses to return to his ship, alleging that the officers have been cruel to him. The Captain, chief c -> ~> A Woman's Winter in Africa officer, the Belgian Consul, and several others listen attentively to the lad's wrongs. He is a stupid, fanatical-looking boy of perhaps twenty years of age. In live minutes or so all is amicably settled, and the Captain has promised to look after the lad himself. The Consul nods approvingly ; the boy grins and says he will go back to the ship. Exit all parties satisfied. " Adhuc sub judice lis est." We are soon seated in the motor, and whirling along the sea ■^■Kgl J J l THE PORT, NAl'I.K^. road leading to Pompeii. ' Imp " is quite excited — its curiosity is being satisfied, and it remarks : ' We are in for a good day," and winds up with, " Are you not glad you came ? ' The streets of Naples always inspire me with the greatest interest ; I gaze first on one side, then on the other, endeavouring not to miss a single item of the crowded thoroughfare teeming with bewildering humanity. With thirsty inquisitiveness I stare up at balconies, where mangy cats doze lazily in the sun, and an enormous selection of undergarments flutter happily in the drying breeze. Madame, gowned in bright pink cotton, appears holding a white-swaddled bundle — it is the baby being given its matudinal airing. Parrots shriek at each other, golden canaries warble thanksgiving praise to the Orb of Day — all is vitality and struggle tiii- existence. Now we are in the midst of markets. Large baskets 34 Naples of wriggling eels -horrid-looking specimens arc shoved under our noses. The crowd here is so thick we arc obliged to go very slow. Huge white cauliflowers, many of which are shipped from Naples to London, look in the distance like stiff Early Victorian bouquets of white roses. Golden oranges and tangerines, crowned with their own lustrous leaves, make pyramids of blazing colour. But colour ! That is everywhere dominant, blatant — queen of the dirty streets. Painted wagons — with no uniformity as to the mating of the beasts that draw them, three harnessed together — -one strong horse, a smaller one, and a mule in the middle — are observed. The high decorative silvered tin ornaments on the surcingle flash in the sunlight. Some of the dark-haired, sallow-faced squatters in the vehicle regard us with mild envious- ness as we rush past. We now enter the regions of the macaroni industrv, where huge factories and small peasant houses vie with each other in stringing out countless yards of the long yellowish pieces which are one of the staple foods of Italy, and have long been popular with other nations as well. Vesuvius is behaving most satisfactorily, and has done so for some time, my friend informs me. As we look up at its :;ooo feet of forbidding height seven tiny spiral columns of vapour rise and gracefully proceed heavenward. The railway, like a white ribbon, lies on the breast of the quiescent monster, the cruel one, who for no reason buried innocent and guilty together at Pompeii and Herculaneum some two thousand years ago. 35 CHAPTER VII Vignettes of Pompeii AS I passed through the iron gates leading to the ancient ruin a l\ feeling of sadness and reverence possessed me. The same spirit spoke when I paid my first visit to the Residency at Lucknow. In both places the noble trees and flowering shrubs which line the approach and veil a great tragedy give the air of peace, and the soft winds are eternally sighing a requiem for the dear dead — ■ those who in the midst of rejoicing were relentlessly struck down with no time for prayers, even if they had wished to say them. This fact is obvious, as is shown in the Museum here, where the petrified bodies are preserved in the same attitude as Death found them. Men and women fell face downward, some held a hand before their eyes ; others rested on an elbow ; an interesting study was the carcase of a dog which evidently died in intense agony, being twisted double. One turns one's eyes to iron gratings and rims of chariot wheels marvellously unchanged, despite the flight of thousands of years. There are rows of blue-green opalescent glass vases, bottles, and much more, which the burning lava or ash has painted a most beautiful colour. The scarcity of old Roman glass is much regretted by connoisseur collectors, as every year its value increases. Through the Museum we go and then walk on past pepper and oleander trees, until we enter the main street of historical Pompeii itself. Over the lava stone-paved way I notice well-worn ruts on each side. These have been made by thousands of chariot wheels. Alas ! where are the drivers of the picturesque conveyances now ? Then there are the large steppirg-stones, which were placed in such a position and height as not to interfere w it li the speed of the chariots. We discover a drinking fountain of white marble, and < re sees the iron spout from which the flowing water appeased the thirst of the now voiceless throats. On the font is carved a cornucopia, the horn of plenty, discharging imaginary water. Near by stands an almost perfect figure of a beautiful woman in 36 \ ignettes oi I ^mpeii Grecian draperies of marble. Her name is Eumachial, Public Priestess. Here is a triumphal arch to Nero, and one to Gallicola, made of tli" thin, narrow red bricks which the Romans always used. These are faced with white marble. We st roll into the Basilica of Justice, and find a narrow hall about 250 feet long by 70 wide. It is rootless, with its standing walls some 12 or 14 feel high. Twenty-four broken columns, many of which are crowned by marble Corinthian capitals, stand like sentries to guard the silent hall. We go down a few steps and enter the prison. In those days criminals were not allowed in court, but anxiously waited here. Three large round holes in the roof must have kept their attention riveted, because from these apertures their doom was shouted down to them. Can one picture the weary waiting of the prisoners and their gladness or sorrow as a court official screamed out their names, and So-and-so was either liberated or sent to death ? The view from the Basilica is superb, backed by its amphitheatre of blue-purple mountains and frowned over by mighty Vesuvius. Sunshine and shadow play hide-and-seek through the empty halls, and a moss -green carpet of velvet fineness covers the floors. It was in i/b4 that a country workman (a contadini), in trying to sink a well, disturbed the protracted sleep of Pompeii by violating the ashes in the Temple of dTside (or Isis). We see the Stabia Gate, with arches intact, through which many of the inhabitants fled in their terror, the Street of Fortune, also the Triangle Forum. The Temple of Mercury, with a white marble font on which is depicted a priestess sacrificing a bull to the gods, proved inter- esting ; there we found several fluted columns of the original Pompeiian red. In the centre is the stone rostrum for public speaking. One can fancy the voices of senators long since silenced pouring forth their flowers of speech to the admiring audience. A bust of Nero as a child was found here. It is inconceivable to imagine Nero a child, and one wishes he had chosen to remain a Peter Pan and never grown up. Now the Bourse opens its arms to us. Mr. Marsden begins bidding for shares in the exuberance of his spirits, much to the amusement of all. Ye Saints ! do the dead hear ? 37 A Woman's Winter in Africa In the Temple of Diana, through her lovely figure an ugly metal tube protrudes. The Priestess, after consulting the oracle, would through this speaking appliance state the wishes of the goddess. The Official Public Scales, consisting of five round receptacles in stone, spoke of the probity of the citizens ; as did the four foot-high millstones, wherein corn was ground by the slaves, show their industry. Having visited the city, we now proceeded to the residential quarter of the then " Smart Set." The house of the Bear, with the open court, which was a feature of each dwelling, contained some beautiful mosaics. The Vet-ti house, the largest yet un- earthed at Pompeii, was remarkable for its really fine dining-room, wherein a frieze portraying fish, lobster, wine-growing, fruit, and other eatables still retained its pristine colouring. One must not forget a commodious kitchen, which would not be despised even in these days of luxury. In bidding adieu to this silent ruin, pregnant with appalling catastrophe, we pause to look at the Theatre of Hercules. It was here that the greater part of the population sat watching the gladiators fighting when Vesuvius cast forth her ashes in anger. The promenade at the back of the theatre is quite intact, also the circle of stone seats, graduated as to price and tier, as in our present-day theatres — the boxes for the nobles, and so on down the social scale. In the small enclosure at the back of the stage sixty-three bodies were found, probably those of the artists who took part in their last performance. A little farther on a larger enclosure proclaims that here the battle of wild beasts was fought. Reverently I pass out of the quiet grass-grown City of the Dead, while Omar Khayyam lines come to me : ' To-morrow ! I myself may be with yesterday's seven thousand years." It was a quarter to two, and being frail humanity who have to look to fleshpots for existence — our party began to clamour for luncheon. This we found opposite, the entrance gate at the Hotel Suisse'. The lunch was excellent — the famous macaroni cooked in true Neapolitan style, fresh fish of the trout family, and several other dishes. For beverage we sampled Lachrima Christi (or Tears of Christ) — a name that repulses me, but nearly everyone drinks the wine here. The vineyards grow on the slopes of Vesuvius, with its rich lava soil, and the grapes are eternally sun- 38 3^,S*K3ttj U < : A Woman's Winter in Africa kissed, which imparts a flavour which has found much apprecia- tion. Our ship sailed at five ; therefore there was not much time to investigate Naples, and as I had seen the sights on several other visits 1 devoted the day to Pompeii. But for the benefit of other travellers not knowing Naples, may I suggest a visit to the Museum, also to the Aquarium, the finest in the world ; a drive to St. Elmo and Baia?, the latter much beloved by the Romans as a summer resort ; and many more interesting excursions of which Baedeker will tell you? Signor de Luca and his charming son Alberto were kind enough to see us off. There was some delay. Darkness descended, and when we finally listened to the music of the working screws, Naples — la Bella — was wearing along her corsage a large necklace of diamonds, and on her dark head St. Elmo had placed a tiara of scintillating gems. 40 C 1 1 A P T E R VIII Port Said PORT SAID loomed a dull red streak on the horizon as we approached, the blinking de Lesseps lighthouse shortly after g p.m. It reminded one of a belated houri about to retire, for there seemed to be a sleepiness over the whole town -so different in appearance from last year, when I was proceeding to the Durbar at Delhi. Then the place was wreathed in paper roses and green palm trees, while flaring arches blazoned forth warm welcoming messages to their Majesties the King-Emperor and Queen-Empress, who were due to arrive the next day on the Medina. It was with a sad heart 1 bide farewell to my good friends. About twenty-five of the passengers left the ship, and as far as I could ascertain only two German ladies were to remain on board until the Adolph Woermann reached its destination at Dar-el- Salaam, a name derived from its Arab associations. These ladies, however, do not speak either English or French, and as my German is practically non est, the social life between us consists of a bow- morning and night and various smiles in reconnoitring during the day. Naturally I longed for some English ladies to join the ship at Port Said. Even " Imp " acknowledged it would be desirable, as, however kind the men were, chatting with one's own sex is preferable sometimes. I was leaning over the rail, a trifle depressed, watching the constant bobbing up and down of the small fleet which gathers around a newly arrived steamer, when I heard a familiar Arab voice shouting an order to his men. In a few seconds I recognized Abdel Sattar el-Bassel, Sheikh of the Fayum, ascending the gangway. Now I must go back about six years, to the time when I first met the Sheikh and his charming wife Malaka in Cairo. Th y had been married about a year at the time. I had wanted to meet a high-class Egyptian woman at home, and through the friendship of a Pacha I was introduced to the Sheikh, who in his turn invited me to visit his wife. Upon arrival there with the 41 A Woman's Winter in Africa Sheikh, who is cultured and refined, and has the principles of an Englishman- -as he is very much against plurality in wives — I was astonished to find a handsome woman of twenty, with large vivacious brown eyes and dazzling teeth, her complexion of the palest cafe- au-lait, with clove carnation colour subtly rubbed into her cheeks. The tea was served in English style, and my distinguished hostess, who speaks English, French, Arabic, Turkish, and Bedouin perfectly, commenced a con- versation which touched upon all the current news of the day, literature and r_ MEmt politics, and wound up with a discussion upon the philosophy of Herbert Spencer. I had to dig deep into the wells of my brain to resurrect memories which had long since slumbered. Thus began a delight- fid acquaintance, of especial interest to me, which has lasted, and 1 hope may continue. I may mention that Madame el-Bassel is the only Egyptian woman who has lectured to an audience of five hundred women in Cairo, with the object of impressing upon the minds of the poor the beneficial principle of hygienic methods in their homes, and teaching them to bring up their children well, instilling in 42 FAVOURITE HORSE OF SHEIKH AliDEL EL-BASSEL. FAYUM. Port Said them the love of cleanliness and work. I was so agreeably sut prised with my rirsl insigh.1 into Egyptian family life, after all the harem stories I had heard, thai I wrote an article on my impre sions, which appeared in English, and was copied into the French and Arabic journals in Cairo. When the season was over and I returned to London our lett< i were of mutual interest, and last year, when 1 passed through Cairo after the Durbar ceremonies, 1 paid a visit of four and a half days to my friends on their huge estate in the rich oasis of the Fayum. The Sheikh has a light railway laid over his domain for the use of himself and friends, and to carry the harvests from the different farms. Much cotton is grown here, and the family have also large tracts of land in the Soudan, and are experi- menting there in cotton growing. Truly, I never experi- enced a pleasanter visit, where, from the Sheikh and the " Sit," which is his wife's official title, down to the smallest ser- vant, I was shown every consideration and hospi- tality. Therefore when I recognized the Sheikh I smilingly extended my hand, which he kissed. I had written to Madame that I should D2 passing Port Said, and gave the name of my ship; but the thought never occurred to me that they would take all that trouble and travel here just to give me a handshake and say " Bon voyage." The Sheikh said I must come ashore at once, as his wife Malaka was at the hotel and most anxious to see me ; furthermore, that they were waiting dinner for me. I hurried ashore and walked along tie? wide main street accompanied by the Sheikh, who wore a magnificent burnous of rich purple 43 THE GARDEN OF THE SIT FAYUM. A Woman's Winter in Africa stuff and a striped kaftan. On we went, past postcard shops, splendid Japanese bazaars, and houses where nearly every requisite of travel could be obtained ; but the street appeared not so gay, nor the shopkeepers so importunate as on my previous visits. However, there were plenty who rushed to their doors and stared at a blue-serged English- woman walking with an Arab Sheikh ! Upon reaching the hotel, we found Ma- laka in her private sitting-room. She wore wdiite velvet and much jewellery, and was delighted to rsee me, which feeling „; f ■ I reciprocated. How- pleasant the change was from the ship, where 1 had felt so lonely after my friends departed, now f ijy j to the welcome of , %f a^^^^W warm friendship and f hospitality ! It was a great treat also for Malaka. It is very seldom the Sheikh will allow his wife in an hotel. She always wears black with a white yashmac in public. Once during my visit to the Fayum I remonstrated with her upon wearing such magnificent raiment in the morning. Fre- quently she would appear in satins or velvets, at ten a.m., with a fortune of jewels upon her. She sadly answered : " Charlotte, if I don't wear them for you, whom should I put them on to please ? You know my life here. Although I have 44 A PRINCESS OF THE BEDOUINS, FAYUM. Port Said everything, I am almost a prisoner, and seldom meel anyone." I rcali/.cd, and said no more. Dinner was served at once. I fell very guilty to have kept them from theirs so late, and dubious about taking a lull share of their liberal hospitality, as, not knowing of the unexpected pleasure in store for me, 1 had already dined at seven on board ship. There is nothing that irritates an Arab more than for a guest to refuse a course. He at once reasons that either you don't like his fare or you don't find it good enough ! I shall never forgel my consternation on the occasion of my first dinner in the Fayum, when a black slave brought half a fat sheep to mv side for me to carve. I gave a despairing look at the huge carcase. I always find it best when, if you don't know anything, simply to state the case an 1 ask for advice. People are not supposed to know everything in this world, although many dislike to acknowledge it. I begged the Sheikh to do the proper thing regarding the mutton, whereupon he carved me a noble portion of the fattest meat I had ever eaten ! Malaka explained that it was their custom. They always kept a sheep fattened, and whenever a distinguished guest arrived it was sacrificed. Needless to say, that at the Port Said dinner this Gar- gantuan piece de resistance did not make its appearance. The courses were mostly European, with an occasional Arab dish. There were many little stews with vegetables, and the chicken was stuffed with rice, nuts, sultanas, currants, and spice of all kinds, and was excellent. 1 have often given it to my friends at home, where it has invariably found favour. For dessert they had ordered a special sweet which I had last partaken of in the Fayum. It was a large open tart lull of all kinds of fruit and very strongly flavoured with orange flowers. Delicious coffee followed. Of course, the Mohammedans do not drink spirits or wine. That was a very good commandment which Mohammed gave to them We sat chatting, enjoying ourselves, and all too quickly time pointed to eleven-thirty. My ship left at twelve, so farewells were said, with hopes of ren< wing our friendship next year. I think Malaka imagines I am a little mad to undertake this long trip by myself, and sometimes, when I look at the map of Africa hanging in the companion way, and face the gigantic voyage which I have set out to accomplish, I cannot help wondering if I shall really achieve it and once again see my home and 45 A Woman's Winter in Africa friends. ' Imp " hates me to have such thoughts, forbidding me to become morbid. At parting with my dear friends Malaka pushed a packet into my hand. Woman-like, I must open it at once, and find a lovely necklace of gold coins, also a bottle of oil of sandal-wood perfume. How can I make her understand my gratitude for her never- failing kindness ? Reluctantly I take my departure, the Sheikh accompanying me to the ship. The next morning my first question to the stewardess when she brought me some ■ coffee was : " Did any English ladies come on board last night ? ' She replied : ' Yes, Madame, one English lady with her husband. They are in the cabin next to yours, and I think they are going to Dar - es - Salaam." I am heartily glad," kl responded. " One 8 companion is better ^^^^^^^^^^■i^^^^^^^^^^^M than being absolutely SOME OF THE SHEIKH's HOUSES, EGYPT. alone. At present we have three Germans and two English women. Down the Canal there is nothing to chronicle. The weather is rather cool, and there is a concert by a very good band in the morning and again after dinner. The food continues all that could be desired ; the lazy ship life is restful, and without incident we d. Aft on day by day. I forgot to mention that a dance took place the night before we reached Port Said. The deck ballroom was prettily decorated with flags and Japanese lanterns, and the dance was kept going for some hours notwithstanding the scarcity of lady partners. How the tables are reversed from London parties, where some of the greatest hostesses find a difficulty in securing a suitable number of dancing men ! In meandering down the Suez Canal one's thoughts revert to Count Ferdinand de Lesseps, and one cannot restrain pity and 46 Port Said sympathy for the man with the greal brain who accomplished t his marvellous waterway. That he unfortunately failed in thai titanic scheme of his, the Panama (anal, was due, Let us say, to disastrous fever as much as to faulty finance, and the wealthy American Republic devoted two years solely to the task of conquering the pestiferous climate before they set their men to pierce the heart of the Isthmus. Within a short time the gigantic Panama (anal will rank among the wonders of the world. We arrive at the Red Sea, and equip ourselves in white. Lemon squashes with large chunks of ice take the place of other bevei ages ; we prepare to keep cool. ^ Ysterday we encountered phenomenal weather. Captain, passengers, and crew who pass through the Red Sea periodically say they have never seen such a storm as descended upon us. 'Idle heat was stifling. Every port was (irmly secured, rain came down in sheets, decks were flooded, and there was no place to sit or stand except in the saloon, which resembled a Turkish bath. Thunder and lightning played around us. Another exceptional thing was a thick white mist that covered us, preventing our vision. We could only see a few yards away. The fog-horn tooted its dismal notes. We were all very much depressed. This inclement condition lasted the entire morning. After lunch it cleared, and the sun came out and began drying up the decks like an indignant housemaid who sees her work in arrears and remedies it by making her pe( pi? comfortable and happy once more. Mokha, a small town clinging close to the seashore on the Arabian side, nestled in drowsiness and sunshine. The latter showed us square white houses, land destitute of verdure, and a tall lighthouse. Mokha at one period gained the reputation of producing the finest coffee in the world. A short distance further along, lying near the opposite coast, is the island of Perim. The following stoiv illustrates the means by which it became a British possession. It was, in the' old days when Aden had recently been acquired, overlooked by our people when capturing the more important barrier to the East, so that Perim had been neglected. Not so, however, with the French, who foresaw its value in strategical importance in war times. They made up an expedition to annex the island for France. The French ship arrived at Aden, and the officers were invited 47 A Woman's Winter in Africa to mess that evening with the Britishers. They fraternized and the wine flowed, which loosened the tongue of one officer, who confided that to-morrow morning they intended to take Perim in the name of their country. This unexpected revelation naturally opened the eyes of the English. A wink was given, and a few English left the table unnoticed by the French. The English officers who remained forced copious hospitality upon their guests, until in drowsy bewilderment they forgot the island of Perim. The next morning they sailed from Aden, and upon arriving at their destination, to their horror and amazement they beheld a British Mag waving, emblazoning the fact that the English were already in possession ! Perim claims the attention of the passenger. This island would have made a lovely water-colour with its heather-tinted, rocky shores caressed by the sapphire sea. It fairly bristled with cautionary lighthouses, as if it were weary of having unfortunate wrecks tossed upon its shores, thus giving it an evil reputation. , It was on the rocks - jtl; '• . I of Perim that the P. \ c>. China met In r I doom. Dim lights in the dis- lb± tance proclaim Aden. It is about n p.m. when we drop anchor (lose by the Salselie. pigeon houses, fayum. This ship seemtd like an old friend. When she made her maiden trip to the northern capitals I enjoyed a very pleasant voyage on board. She was built for swiftness, ami now acts as a sort ot ferry-boat to carry mails and passengers from Aden to Bombay. A traveller is constantly meeting with old friends of the shipping world. Discs of glowing light announce the fact that most of the voyagers have retired. Somali boatmen wearing turbans and a few fluttering rags shout to each other, their gleaming teeth flash- 4« Port Said ing in the intense darkness. Hatches arc opened, merchandise is already being lowered to the waiting boats below, and steam derricks groan'and wheeze as if protesting againsl labour. Passing to the other side of our ship are several huge barges loaded with cotton, which we are to take on to the waiting populace in Africa. At Aden a great deal of transhipment takes place. Many goods coming from America change quarters here. There is more cargo than was expected ; therefore the men will be obliged to work all night. By the gangway is a flotilla of Indian traders with their wares, but the Somali boatmen appear to have the monopoly of leopard skins, horns, shell necklaces, and baskets. These baskets are made by the natives, and are rather pretty both as regards shape and colouring. It is too late to go on shore. The town seems steeped in darkness, and one retires, but not to sleep— the incessant noise forbids such refreshment. Early next morning we sail, and even Aden, that arid volcanic rock, dressed in pale blue cloudlike draperies, is beautiful, as distance lending enchantment gathers it to its bosom. I was not at all disappointed in being deprived of going ashore at Aden. Previously I had visited the place some half a dozen times, but for the benefit of travellers unfamiliar with Aden I think I can safely say that from a tourist's point of view there is little of interest. The mountains are certainly grand in their bleakness, and the different invasions of the Arab tribes make interesting- history. One of the most picturesque figures to pay homage to their Majesties on Durbar Day at Delhi last year was the Sheikh of Aden. He was a tall, magnificent specimen of stately manliness, and he was almost the only ruler who appeared without jewels, wearing- only his burnous of finest texture and a camel's-hair rope wound many times around his head. This Sheikh was greatly interested in the Kinemacolor photographs, and at the rehearsal of the Rulers before the actual day of the Durbar Mr. Charles Urban showed the Sheikh the particular workings of the Kinemacolor. After he had paid his obeisance and backed out of their Majesties' presence he passed very slowly before the machine in order that the Kinemacolor might have an advantageous view of his regal self. People tell you to drive out to the Great Tanks, but from personal experience I should add, Do not. In the first place, the carriages are rather miserable contrivances with wretched, worn- D 46 A Woman's Winter in Africa out, slow-crawling ponies or horses. The distance is some eight miles along a hot, dusty road. The horse I had dropped dead as I arrived at the Tanks. Fortunately, while I was exploring these huge receptacles my driver secured another specimen of horse- flesh. The Great Tanks, or cisterns, are supposed to have been built originally by the Persians about a.d. 600, when they invaded that part of the country. Other authorities contest this idea, and declare it was the Romans who were responsible. However, these Tanks lay buried for centuries. Towards 1830 merchants and navy men assembled in large numbers at Aden, and it was regretted amongst the officers that DISTANT VIEW OF ADEN. the sailors generally preferred to leave the merchant ships and join the Indian Navy, thereby causing much annoyance by placing them short of hands after having brought the sailors on what in those days was a long voyage. A new law declared that these deserters should be put in prison for a short time as a punish- ment, but at that period they were not obliged to work. Some years after the Governor found it was useless for the Govern- ment to house and feed these deserters, and he compelled them to work for their bread, sending them to the Tanks to break stone for road building ; and it was a prisoner who actually discovered the Tanks. Then in 1856 British brain and activity overhauled, cleaned, cemented, and re-established these huge, valuable 50 Port Said reservoirs, which can retain 8,000,000 gallons <>l water truly a " Godsend " to barren, parched Aden, where grass and flowers are ever absent. A superfluous painted placard warned people " Nol 1 1 1 pick the flowers " —which the mos1 vigilant hunter would have found an illusion and a snare. Last year, when their Majesties landed at Aden from the Medina on their way to India, the whole front of the landing-stage had been transformed into a wealth of greenery. Palms, shrubs, crotons, and flowers had been shipped from Bombay to beautify and dress Aden, the gate of India. There is an indifferent hotel, a line of straggling shops containing a collection of Parsee goods ; ostrich feathers and fans are cheaper here than in Port Said. Also they have a club and brown golf links. The soldiers say the climate is healthy, and they rather like the place because they save money here, as there is really no expensive taste to cultivate. A few of the officers go in for polo, but it is most difficult, and forage for the ponies is expensive. ' Imp " suggests that we should establish a system of " Don'ts," warning people what to avoid at every stopping place ; and as It wants occupation I shall delegate ' Imp " that part of the chronicling. DON'T Lunch or dine at the hotel, ship preferable. Drive to the Tanks. Not worth it, and you may miss ship. 5' CHAPTER IX Dozvn tJic East Coast A PERIOD of quiet ship life is entered upon, varied by concerts, conversation, meals ; and sunsets are remarkably lovely while the sea wears a robe of rich watered silk, shimmering towards the horizon. Flying-fish, whales, and several sharks have not omitted a certain amount of entertainment — one is so easily amused when excitement is limited. The small Somaliland colony who live in the well-deck, enjoy their housekeeping, and black velvet forms, with wrappings of white or gaily coloured cotton, rest tranquilly by day. Night sees them engaged in weird music. Cape Guardafui shows us with picturesque clearness the sleeping Lion crouching on its bold rocky promontory, ceaselessly guarding the Hinterland of Italian Somaliland — that land of which we hear little, but where one finds wild tribes, unknown customs, and dangerous adventures ; not to mention the big game which prowls practical! v unmolested. Most people do not realize the immense breadth of Africa from Cape Guardafui to Cape Verde on the West Coast — the continent being only 250 miles longer than it is broad. Yesterday we crossed the Equator. The weather was certainly hot, but not disagreeably so. We have every convenience on board in the way of electric fans, plenty of ice, and a well-chosen menu. In the afternoon traditional Father Neptune, wearing his rope, tow-wig, and beard, a high-pointed silvered tin crown, and holding a trident, appeared, followed by his satellites — a dozen or so, dressed in weirdly original costumes. He carried a large black book, on the cover of which shone a silver cross. Herein were inscribed the names of those unfortunate ones who acknowledged they had never bumped the Line. These were captured and taken to the lower deck, on which a large swimming tank had been pre- pared for bathers during the hot weather. The miserables, after listening to a lengthy sea harangue eloquently delivered by Neptune, had their faces shaved with a white concoction and huge 52 H o > Pi — D O o A Woman's Winter in Africa wooden razor. Some underwent the agony of having an enormous wooden tooth extracted ; after the brave performance they were ignominiously ducked in the tank, which must by its refreshing qualities have repaid the uninitiated for their indignities. Much snapshotting and laughter were indulged in. About twenty of our passengers are leaving to-morrow at Mombasa for Nairobi, many going on shooting expeditions. They tell me that as the train passes through the country, the game, not fearing it, is often seen grazing in a natural state. It was decided that the Captain's farewell dinner should be cele- brated to-night, and also an Equatorial Fancy Dress Ball should take place afterwards. The dining saloon was decorated very nicely with Japanese lanterns and garlands of paper roses. I include the menu of an excellent dinner. Toasts were proposed in German, English, and French. MENU FOR " CAPTAIN'S DINNER " Caviare in ice-block. Green turtle soup. Boiled salmon, Sauce Gourmand. Saddle of veal a la Couvaroff. Galantine of Capon, Sauce Cumberland. Asparagus, Sauce Mousseline, • Roast Pheasant a la Jockey Club Salad. Illuminated Furst Puckler-Bombe. Pastry. Butter and Cheese. Fruit. Coffee. The health of Captain Iversen and his family was drunk with hearty appreciation. His courtesy to everyone richly deserves our gratitude. When the ices were served lights were switched oft while fairy lights took their place, greatly adding to the beauty of the scene. Considering there were only five ladies on board, the costumes at the dance were most varied and original, all being designed with whatever material was procurable. Every man adorned himself 54 I )own the East Coast in joyous garb. It wasagreal convenience to wear lighl costumes, as the tropica] weather demanded flimsiness. Alter the hall, ices, sandwiches, and lemon squash were served. All the passengers were of one opinion that we had enjoyed a very pleasant evening. At noon next day a low-lying stretch of yellowish sand, backed by groves of palms and mangrove swamps, proclaim the harbour of Kilindine, said to be the finest natural shelter on the East (Oast of Africa, with the exception of Pemba Bay. Above it float soft summer clouds. It is the hot season. From the ancient Portuguese Fort, also from Government House, a Union Jack is flying. A whale bobs his dark head from the water, probably startled by the arrival of two steamers, ours and the Admiral of the same Company. It was on this ship that H.R.H. the Duke of Con- naught and Colonel Roosevelt made their memorable voyages, Captain Doherr being in command at the time. Buffaloes often are found near this water, and lions up to a short time ago were shot on the island of Mombasa. For the first time I see the baobab tree, commonly called cream of tartar. The Dutch once used the pods of this for the preparation of bread. One would imagine that it was a dead thing, until one discerns springlike leaves at intervals on the dead-appearing branches. We pass the ruins of several old forts which date from 1500, recalling slavery times, for Mombasa did a great trade in those dark days. Arabs and Portuguese conquered and reconquered, until it passed under a British Protectorate. Although it is very warm it is not painfully so, considering we are within four degrees of the Equator. Naturally people do not exercise much in the middle of the day, preferring the early morning or late afternoon. The evenings are cool. Small white- sailed fishing boats drift past mango and cocoanut trees; on the shore are peculiar-looking traps to catch the fish, made of dark red reeds. Down rattles our anchor, immediately we are surrounded by a swarm of eager black faces. Swahilis in dhows and small craft shout, Habari ! What news ? Yambo'. Good morning. A useful word to learn in this language is " Menda zako," " Go away ! " A party of us were seated in one of the clean white- cushioned boats, but we had difficulty in making our men push off. They in their greed fancied that by waiting they would secure all the passengers. It is only a short distance over to Kilindine, 55 A Woman's Winter in Africa and there appears to be no fixed tariff, as the men demanded yd. from some and 6d. from others, while sportsmen who landed with much luggage were entirely at their mercy. We landed at Kilindine, the terminus of the Uganda Railway, only to find a large corrugated-iron shed, sectioned alphabetically, regarding luggage, as at home. There are many police about, dressed in khaki, with smart high-standing red turbans finished with a sort of cockade in bright yellow. Many of them come from India ; I was also surprised to notice various officials were Goanese and Hindu. The examinations, especially in the case of sportsmen, are very strict. Every gun has to be thoroughly examined, unlocked, and all cartridges declared. In fact one's entire equipment is overlooked, even necessities being dutiable. On the station I remarked several priests, gowned in white, having long rosaries on their necks. The fast train to Nairobi leaves every other day, the distance being some 322 miles. Nevertheless, the Uganda State Railway takes _' ; hours to run this distance. I am told the journey is most interesting, also including the voyage round Lake Nyasa. Nature has granted them zebra, gun, gazelle, hartebeeste, impala, rhinoceros, giraffe, and possibly lion. One lady, a resident, said that from the train she had seen two lions eating a zebra. The exports coming down from the interior of this valuable country consist of hides, ivory, rubber, <»il seeds, coffee, gum, copal, and potatoes, which grow very well on the uplands. All are shipped to Delagoa Bay and Durban. Cotton also promises to be an important industry; tobacco and the fibre of the mangrove tree add to a useful list, 56 ANCIENT PORTUGUESE GATEWAY, MOMBASA. Entrance to the Fort. I town the East ( Oast Having at last passed the Customs and been importuned by various Swahilis, who beg to guide us for whatever our generosity will shower on them, we escape and enter a public ghari. A species of open trolley-car, very primitive, holding only four persons. This speeds oil to Mombasa, about two miles away. Along the main road, which is called Rlacdonald Terrace, we have nothing but praise for its beauty. On each side arc brilliant- foliaged flamboya trees, a member of the acacia family, the LION ATTACKING ZK1SRA. branches of which are entirely covered with the most glorious red blossoms, while green and brown pods of some six inches in length hang from the already over-gaudy tree. British residents have commodious bungalows, with charming gardens, in which banana trees, cocoanut palms, and the delicious paw-paw supply a wealth of fruit, not to mention the flowering shrubs and decorative crotons, which thrive almost as at Panama. The climate matures these to perfection. Houses are mostly two-storeyed, with wide verandahs, the huts of the natives being thatch-roofed, with white-washed walls of clay. The trolley stopped at the Hotel Metro- 57 A Woman's Winter in Africa pole, which shares with the Grand, under the same management, the reputation of being the best. The Metropole was very full, and some of our people complained of their rooms. We were told that we should dine better on our ship than here. The courtyard or lounge, with its long chairs and sheet-iron tables, with a straw dado around the walls, and an uncarpeted floor not too clean, did not particularly appeal to me. " Imp " also protested. They tell me the cost per day en pension at the Metropole ranges from 10 to 15 rupees ; the charges vary according to the situation of the rooms. If on the balcony, the price is higher. The news from Mombasa consists of a vague revolution idea between the powerful tribes of Masai, Nandi, and Lumbria. The first two have hated each other since prehistoric times, and the present quarrel is. a dispute over their land possessions. There has been bloodshed, and several native police have- been shot. The Government are dealing with the matter quietly, but the Masai have appealed to the High Court. We strolled through the main streets, which were as narrow as in an Arab town, but fairly clean, with tortuous alleys leading to the native quarters. Everyone must be struck by the magnificent carved teak doors, relics of Arab days. In the lower hall of the houses there is a place for rick- shaws, which are largely used. We went on to the Portuguese Fort, dating from 1593. The drawbridge is grass-grown, a large paw-paw tree casts its shadow over the inclined pathway. The walls are of dark red, and on one side surrounded by the sea. Above the principal gateway is a tablet informing us that in 1635 Don Francisco de Cabreira was responsible for the rebuilding; it is at present used as a prison. Above the inscription is a cross with I.H.S., and a Bleeding Heart pierced by three daggers. The streets bear familiar names, such as Thompson Fane, Hardinge Row, and so on. The Indian element is much in evidence. Indian shops crowded with spoils from China and Japan predominate. Many Indians are engaged in municipal work. At about four in the afternoon people emerge for their recreation. There are several clubs, tennis being very popular, and a golf course recently laid out. A well-known hunter tells me the following story, illustrating the swiftness and intelligence of the telegraph department of Uganda : He was camping on the Athi River and despatched a boy twenty miles to a Baboo station- master to send a wire. The boy returned bringing a form, saying 58 I town the East ( Oast he had orders thai the words must be written on thai form, litis being done he started back, making sixty miles' travel. Again he returned, bringing a stamp, and told the gentleman he must affix it himself, thereby making a hundred milts' running in order to send one wire ! *»,': ;'~-«*^f)"^'' * ■ ■ * .: "*-,•■■■'-■ ?F '4, > V. SNAKE AT HOME. DONT'S BY " IMP " Don't stay at the hotel if you are invited to a friendly bungalow. Don't give the natives whatever they demand, for they are never satisfied. Don't change German money into rupees — is. 4d. — there is a discount on German money. English is best. You will find Indian shops dear. Curios from Uganda may be obtained in a shop at the beginning of Main Street, but there is not a large selection. 59 CHAPTER X Tanga AT seven in the morning a green well-wooded country and a tall J~\ watch-tower of ancient workmanship give me my first glimpse of Tanga, in German East Africa. Several of our few re- maining passengers disembark here. One family in particular journey by train 250 miles into the country, then have another sixty miles to do by mules and carriers. The gentleman is manager of some large rubber plantations ; I fear his young wife will be weary before she reaches her destination. People rarely stay out here more than three years ; the climate is very enervating, and for health's sake one must have a change. One catches a distant view of mountains in the background, some of the peaks rising to the height of 10,000 feet. The highest are quite eighteen miles away. The most prominent building on arrival is the German Hospital. Europeans are accommodated in the large, airy, two-storeyed red-roofed building, natives having an annexe to themselves. Situated as it is on a promontory, it has the advantage of the cool sea winds. The grounds are spacious and well kept. At Tanga the buildings are more covered with foliage than at Mombasa ; from the shore it looks less interesting, but do not be deceived by what the wiseacres tell you ! I engage a clean boat, the Swahilis wear- ing smart red fezzes on their ebony heads, and khaki clothes. For one mark I was rowed to the landing-stage, where a native obtained a rickshaw for me. This is the conveyance of Tanga, together with narrow-gauge trolley-cars. I went jogging along the main street, and I being alone Imp accompanied me, complaining it had not had much privacy with me for exchange of thoughts, as I passed most of my time with fellow-passengers. The drive was beautiful. On each side for some distance blazed the scarlet flamboya tree, oleander, and palms of every variety. The houses are mostly two- storeyed, with deep closed-in verandahs, painted white with red roofs. In the gardens cocoanuts, mangoes, and pineapples abound. 60 Tanga On arriving at the market, a long, open structure, I descended from my rickshaw and passed through. Markets, in whatever place I am, always interest me, for there one sees for oneself how the people live and what they live on. It was about nine in the morning, which is considered late for purchasing in the tropics. The meat certainly did not look appetizing, heat making the stench most disagreeable ; l>nt the fruit made a rather fine show. I bought some ripe mangoes, the largest I have seen, pineapples, bananas, and limes. Curious red HOSPITAL, TANGA. and yellow peppers were in great demand. The blacks control all the market trade. A quaint old Goanese was selling belts com- posed of a dozen silver chains, fastened by a German five-mark piece. Evidence of loyalty to the Kaiser was manifest in every direc- tion ; his photographs and chromos in uniform decorated every shop and hotel. On leaving the market I was much struck by the cleanliness of a coffee restaurant for the native marketmen. There they sat enjoying excellent-looking brown and white bread, and I was in a way reminded of the stalls at Covent Garden. This bread was every bit as good as that at home. 61 A Woman's Winter in Africa The Government has excelled itself in laying out Tanga allow- ing it wide, shady streets with countless blooming shrubs, arranging squares and open recreation grounds. At Bismarcks Platz, for in- stance, is a large, well-kept cafe ; also a bandstand in the gardens, where red and yellow crotons stand ten and twelve feet high. There are several of the lovely fan-spread palms. On a stone pedestal a fine bronze bust of Prince Bismarck recalls the wisdom of a great man. The monument is guarded by old cannon placed GRAND HOTEL, TANGA. at its base. I am told that Tanga is noted for its band ; here in tlie cool of an afternoon the Europeans meet for social chat. There are two hotels, which show a far better front than at Mombasa. The Kaiserhof Hotel, a large white hostelry, with green shutters and deep balconies, has a large open restaurant and cafe, which in this climate is appreciated. The Grand Hotel is spoken of as the best this year. Here I found clean rooms ; the ladies' sitting-room was furnished with wicker chairs of artistic design, straw matting covered the floor, and on the writing-desks gleamed silver necessaries — quite luxurious ! A balcony runs the length of the front, where meals are served if desired on blue- 62 r n a th wc not in i my con g ul. CHAPTER XI Dar-es-Salaam IT is a glorious Sunday afternoon, the Golden God reigns in a tropical sky. Many healths and good-bye toasts have been drunk, as we are now entering Dar-es-Salaam, an Arab name, which translated means " Harbour of Peace." Truly it is well named. All passengers line the rails watching for the approach and first sight of their welcoming friends. The band is playing, and one cannot restrain the spirit of jubilation that spreads from prow to stern. We pass quite close to shore, which is crowded by white-clad people waving handkerchiefs. Two sharp turns through an extremely narrow neck of water and we enter the fine land-locked harbour of Dar-es-Salaam, the largest port of German East Africa. From here are shipped enormous quantities of merchandise for the Congo and Central Africa. Upon the dropping of our anchor we are met with all kinds of craft — smart official boats, dhows, a number of small white- winged sailing yachts, skimming as close as they dare, and boats full of enthusiastic people. The mail's arrival means a great deal to the 1500 Europeans isolated here and deeply merged in colonial life. Fathers, mothers, and whole families, after a dreary sojourn, are to be reunited and start their daily occupations together. Then the interesting news, things they have seen and done, messages and presents from far-away friends, are eagerly looked for. The heat here is most trying. Frequently the residents are obliged to leave — it is not considered extreme when the thermometer registers 38 or 40 degrees C. in the shade. Although Mombasa is nearer the Equator, Dar-es-Salaam is much hotter. The picture which presents itself is that of a long row of well-designed buildings, Government and private, the splendid Catholic church, with high steeple, while further on a Protestant church rears its tower. Throughout this long sea-front drive the scarlet flamboya acacias blaze, and tall, swaying cocoanut palms and crotons of all sizes and colours. It is with extreme K 65 A Woman's Winter in Africa sorrow that " Imp " and I realize the fact that we must leave the dear, comfortable Adolph Woermann, which has meant home to us for a month. My thoughts drift back to the 2ist of December, at South- ampton, when in great weakness, owing to bronchitis, I boarded this ship. Now I am perfectly well and scarcely realize the meaning of the word cough ! " Imp " whispers, " What did I tell you ? " which I pretend not to hear. Imagine the difference — England and its cold, wet climate — then one month's comfortable sailing on a ship where you are waited on by attentive stewards. No troubles with servants nor sticking on insurance stamps, no feeding coals to a ravenous fire ! Here you have excellent meals served without a thought of ordering, you listen to music, most of your wants are anticipated, you have met pleasant companions, broadened your views in the mutual exchange of thought, have seen and visited marvellously interesting places, improving yourself in every way. Upon inquiring I find that about eight of our passengers who are going farther south will live on board ship for two days before we transfer to the Markgraff, which at present is discharging cargo at Mombasa, I am pleased to say that amongst these are my friends Mr. and Mrs. Henry of Johannesburg, on their way to Durban. Mrs. Henry and I were the only English-speaking women on board, having taken all our shore excursions together. At the end of the voyage a ship's party becomes like one big family, and as I speak French and understand a few German words we all chatter like magpies. Most of the Germans are progressing in English, the men especially, since commercial relations with England demand it. We are a very small party at dinner to-night, having our coffee on deck. Mr. Ott and Mr. Bee'sley, who are responsible for the management of the D.O.A. and Woermann Linie at Dar-es-Salaam, inform us that being Sunday night they have a grand concert at the Kaiserhof Hotel and suggest that we should attend. We are rowed ashore, the fare being 4d. (surely not extravagant), and wander along a white road planted with trees. A two-quarter-old moon lends beauty to the scene. We pass the prison, an old building of large dimensions which dates from Portuguese and slavery days. Figure to yourself the miserable times some poor creatures have known behind those thick-built 66 I )ar-es-Salaam walls ! We sir th.' post office, an up-to-date modern building, also the Palace, or rather house, of the banished Sultan Said Khaled, exiled from Zanzibar, who lives in his retirement with a lew faithful supporters. The tall walk of the Catholic church gleam in the moonlight. We enter, to fitnd a plain but well-arranged interior, with stained-glass windows, but very crude a s far as < olour- ing goes, a fine altar, carved pulpit of ebony, comfortable cane benches, and a lofty ceiling. The funds for this church have been largely subscribed by natives, the Goanese having settled here GENERAL VIEW OF DAR-ES-SAI.AAM. in large numbers. In fact along this coast they are devout Catholics and Royalists. I mav state for the benefit of my readers who are not familiar with this race that Goa is a province held by the Portuguese in South-west India. In olden times the Portuguese colonials married native Indian women, and from those alliances sprang these people who prefer to drop their mother's ancestry, calling themselves Portuguese. We should like to have gone into the Protestant church, which A Woman's Winter in Africa stands close by, half hidden by a grove of cocoanut palms ; but since no service was being held at the time, doors were locked. This fact has always impressed me in regard to Protestant churches everywhere. One never finds a Catholic church closed to worship- pers, it being possible to enter and pray or meditate whenever you will ; but not so in those of my own faith. When service is over the doors are invariably locked. A large white hotel stands out from the mist of palms and STREET IN DARES-SALAAM. shrubs — it is the Kaiserhof. There is a wide terrace, brilliantly lighted, on which quite a hundred people dressed in white sit sipping beverage, three-quarters of them drinking beer. Some of this beer is imported from the homeland, but most is a Weisse Beer, served in enormous bowl-like glasses, a full pint in each. This is made in Dar-es-Salaam. The beer has a slightly acid taste, which is a good thirst-curer in the grilling country, where refresh- ing liquid is in constant demand. Another glass which drew my attention as peculiar was what they call a vase of beer ; it is a tall glass twelve inches high, such as we use at home for flowers. 68 I )ar-es-Salaam When filled with golden beer crowned by foam ii is rather difficult to manage, but has an attractive look on the table. All these people were sitting in the cool evening air listening to an excellent band of about forty khaki-coloured natives, their conductor being a German officer. The Germans take very good care of their colonists, and arrange for their entertain- ment. The French act very similarly for their colonies, for I remember when at Saigon, Cochin China, 1 at- tended a splendid performance of the Opera. Upon ask- ing how the people could support an Opera House, 1 was told, " Oh, the French Government send out companies, and maintain it at the cost of many thousand pounds a year." We do not do enough in that respect for our colonies. They say that Englishmen take their pleasures sadly, but can you imagine our Colonial Office bothering its head whether we shall have opera or not in our colonies ? After the hot trying day who could begrudge these people enjoying the cool evening and listening to music, even if it were not inside a church ? Here we met many of our voyage companions and their friends passing a pleasant hour. Next day, we, like greenhorns, 69 SECRETARY OF STATE'S VIS11 l< THEIR EXCELLENCES DR. SCHNEE DAR-ES-SALAAM. \M> FKAU SCHNEE. A Woman's Winter in Africa started from our ship to explore Dar-es-Salaam. There are only four horses, and they belong to His Excellency Dr. Schnee, Governor of German East Africa. The hot climate and the deadly tsetse-fly kill them. For conveyance there are rickshaws with black boys, and occasionally one sees a pair of small, well-worn mules drawing a carriage. Our. party, however, decided to walk, thinking the exercise would be beneficial after being restricted to deck promenades for such a long time. Thus we valiantly started dressed in thinnest white gowns, cork topees, naturally wearing veils — at least, Mrs. Henry and I wore them. We had not, however, realized the power of the sun, for the blistering process started almost immediately. I was wearing what is called a lingerie gown, composed of the finest lawn and lace. Old Sol obviously did not like my costume, or perhaps he admired it too much ; any way, he fastened his eyes on me and embroidered my skin to match the pattern of the lace. He rather overdid his caresses on my shoulders, causing horrid white blisters to rise, and this painful affliction I still b ar the marks of. We had not calculated upon the difference of this progressive port between 10.30 p.m. and 10.50 a.m., therefore we made a mistake. Of course, people who live here, like business men and officials, rise at six, do their work in the early hours, go home to breakfast, take a siesta, and venture out again at about four. So with their womenkind : they wait until late afternoon before venturing out. There are several hundred ladies at Dar-es-Salaam, and a hundred European children. The men greatly outnumber the women. There is a new golf course here with nine holes, by the sea, laid out with the help of the English Consul, Mr. King; and tennis courts. But I should think the heat would not induce one to exercise much, even towards evening. I have visited all the tropical ports, such as Singapore, Panama, Buenos Aires, and Port Cabello, but I think for heat Dar-es-Salaam holds first place. Yet one must also remember that this is their hottest season. In June, July, and August the warmth is greatly abated, but up in the interior of German East Africa one finds quite a cool climate. The railway, a narrow gauge of a yard wide, with carriages of a rather primitive character, has for some time been climbing to Morogoro, some 200 miles. Now it is ambitiously ascending straight to Lake Tanganyika, which naturally opens up the country. This year 8000 bales of fine cotton have been exported TO I )ar-es-Salaam from German Eas1 Africa, also large quantities of fibre, which realizes £35 a ton ; and coming down from the Congo have been enormous consignments of rubber. ( )ur ship has broughl oul 1250 tons of steel rails for this new railway. Soon, it is hoped, the Makatta Plains will be open to sportsmen ; this may prove an Eldorado for them, as big game of all kinds abounds. The place will then be a serious rival to its neighbour Uganda, which they say has been too well shot over in most places. The sun being so fierce, we decided not to have our skins baked after blistering, so we adjourned to the Kaiserhof to rest on its broad, shady verandah. There is always a breeze on one side of the hotel. Here we lunched, and found an appropriate meal, well served. The cost of the luncheon was 2 rupees each, and for pension 12 rupees. It is considered the Savoy of East Africa, and is ably managed by Mr. Paul Heltmann, assisted by his sister. The hotel consists of forty rooms, which are large and airy ; about half of them have bathrooms attached. The black waiters in spotless white, wearing embroidered muslin caps, stand in line, and at a signal in the same manner as on the P. & O. steamers, they serve the different courses. Much fruit is eaten, delicious mangoes, pineapples, oranges, and bananas being most refreshing. In the afternoon we took rickshaws and proceeded through the various streets, which bore the names of Kaiserstrasse, Bismarckstrasse, Wiessmannstrasse. Facing the sea is a bronze bust in honour of Prince Bismarck, and farther back in the town th memory of Major von Wiessmann, the great explorer, is recalled by an elevated statue with a native standing on guard. The population of the town is more than 20,000, the Europeans numbering about 1500 ; but that number is constantly increasing. We were conducted through broad streets with rows of acacia and palm trees, casting a beautiful shade, past the Brumer Hotel, and visited several Goanese shops, mostly containing ordinary Indian curios, but in one place the Indian dealer had some tine elephants, carved in ebony, and curious mounted trophies, including a dried elephant's tail. I was glad to s.ee this, as it showed one how the hair is obtained for making elephant bracelets, which are in great vogue along the coast. A large variety of Ceylon stones were also for sale. Eventu- ally I succumbed to a fine plaited straw mat in bright colours, also a shell head-dress and belt, which are worn by the natives on gala 71 A Woman's Winter in Africa occasions. In some parts of the country where there is little metal coin, these shells or cowries are used as currency, about one thousand of them being the value of a rupee. We went on to the Bazaar, where dirt, colour, cloth, beads, and a miscellaneous collection spelt much fascination to native dames. European ladies have either to bring out enough gowns to last the usual two or three years or send home for them, as there are as yet no shops where ready-made clothing can be bought. I consider this rather a pity, as the Germans are most enterprising, and a ladies' em- porium would surely prove a good investment. The market next drew our attention, where the natives crouched over smelly fried fish. The fresh meat was kept in wire cages infested by flies, there being no ice in the market. All kinds of tropical fruit and great mounds of cocoanuts furnished this rather unappetiz- ing place. Our only excitement was a tiny pretty-faced monkey, about six inches long, with greyish blue fur, wearing a wreath of white whiskers. Mrs. Henry fell violently in love, and bought him for zh rupees. We were all much interested in Mr. Monkey, and after bathing and Keating-powdering our small friend we christened him Darsallar, in memory of the place where he had been found. Poor Darsallar has since died in Johannesburg. The large area containing thousands of native huts we inspected ; they were in good preservation, large and airy, for native houses, many having four or more rooms. They are palm-thatched and whitewashed. Groups of natives squatted outside, eating bananas or mangoes. Fat piccaninnies toddled about, and were amused by their chicken companions vainly in quest of food. The natives looked clean, well-fed, and comfortably housed. Upon returning to our beloved Adolpli Woermann to dine, we found her still indulging in a terrific attack of mat dc mcr, and incessantly vomiting cargo. The next day, through the kindness of Mr. Ott, I enjoyed a very pleasant drive out to the point and over some miles of cocoanut plantations. On this point is situated Government House, the General's quarters and accommodation for the officers. They were beginning to put out decorations for the celebration of the Emperor's birthday. Farther along we saw many soldiers practising at rifle targets. A large hospital, Moorish in architecture, facing the cool sea breeze is passed. People come here to be treated from all over the East Coast. The next building of importance is the residence of the Governor- 72 I )ar-es-Salaam General, \h\ Schnse. It is a splendid-looking mansion, standing high and built in the colonial style of the U.S.A., surrounded by a lovely garden. We saw groups of marabou standing stupidly DARSALLAR THE MONKEY. A. well-kept cemetery is situated near, and sadly Climate takes a terrible toll of life in this zone. Adjoining is the Mohammedan cemetery. Fearing our span of 73 on the shore. full of graves A Woman's Winter in Africa worn mules would be tired and heated, we turned back, taking a picturesque route through the plantation to our wharf. This is our last dinner with Captain Iversen, which we all regret exceedingly, for to-morrow morning by noon we tranship to the Markgraff. We are all of the same opinion concerning the comfort and kindness we have received on the Adolph Woermann and Captain Rm ■ J3M CATHOLIC CHURCH, DAR-ES-SALAAM. Iversen's personal attention to his passengers ; it is no wonder that he is one of the most bdoved captains of the line, and that many people wait months for his ship to carry them homeward. I also wish to thank Mr. Beesley and Mr. Ott for the hospitality I received from them. After lunch our small party of five was transferred to the Mark- graff, which can in no way be compared with the Adolph Woermann. She is more of a cargo than a passenger boat, only 3800 tons ; but 74 I )ar-es-Salaam is the only steamer going south for two weeks, when the General conn's along, and after staying three days at Dar-es- Salaam, and thinking of the thousands of mi Its I have yet to traverse, " Imp and I decide we ninst not lose time. The Markgraff, an inter- mediate steamer, stops at many of the small interesting ports which the grand mail steamers ignore. The captain and first officer do what is possible to give us comfort ; there is plenty of ice on board, they kill their own poultry, so we get on fairly well. I miss my nice stewardess, Hermine Bunning, who was one of the most obliging girls I have ever met in my many years of travel. 1 am glad to say that dear Mrs. Henry and her husband are still fellow-voyagers, they going in this ship to Durban, while I get out at Beira. Our stewards are Goanese, but we do not carry a stewardess. We have a large number of natives on the well deck. It is amusing to watch them ; they have a very particular stove to cook over. Last night one family had a dinner-party. They laid clean straw mats on the deck, and an enormous curry was served with many chutneys resting in tiny bowls. The old grandfather presided, and the bright and merry eyes of the youngsters regarded the feast with jubilant glee. Our little monkey Darsalla comes in for a great deal of attention, being most friendly, and will, 1 feel sure, soon suffer from indigestion, as first one will bring it a mango, then another a banana, and another an orange. It has polite Arab manners, and refuses nothing. 75 CHAPTER XII Zanzibar BLUE, softly-tinted skies, like those of Corfu, overhang a beautiful garden — it is the island of Zanzibar. Along the shores, and framed by cocoanut palms, whose fresh greenness waves indolently in the summer zephyrs, are the ancient palaces of the different Sultans. With each reign the man in possession of an uncertain throne built his home here, endowing it with his own individual taste. Some are in good repair, with palm-thatched native huts clustered round them like parasites ; others form picturesque ruins, encased lovingly with flowering vines. These palaces are built of coral rock crushed into cement, and are there- fore more durable than many of the residences in Africa. Small islands dot the horizon. One is Bat Island, and here thousands of bats, looking like old rags tied on a tree, sleep peacefully in the hot sun, but nightly make a pilgrimage to the mainland. Grave Island, a near neighbour, lying flat and clothed in verdure, retains its name in consequence of the many sailors buried there. On a nearer approach the white tombstones are seen standing like pale sentinels and guarding the silent homes of death. Prison Island is larger, quite some miles in length. The Government built a mo lern prison and sent the native convicts to serve their time here ; but they complained that it was too cold, they could not endure it, so now it is used as a quarantine station. The terrible scourge of cholera has frequently visited these shores. Money in Zanzibar is counted in rupees and pice, as in India. Thousands of Indians have settled here, and, commercially speaking, trade is pretty much in their hands. For many years a landmark in the harbour was a dilapidated wreck named the Glasgow, which belonged to Said Khaled. This Sultan the English wished to depose, but he threatened us and refused to leave his ancestral throne, whereupon we bombarded his palace. He defiantly returned our fire with his only ship, *he Glasgow. The English were obliged to make him see the error of his ways, and 76 Zanzibar with one shot disabled the ship. For fifteen years it has rocked here, an object lesson to the natives ; but as the authorities now consider it an obstacle to navigation it was decided to blow it up. A vessel with explosives came down from Perim, a1 the cosl oi £5000, and now the Glasgow has entirely disappeared. Sultan Said Khaled was obliged to flee from his country, and took refuge in German East Africa. The Government befriended him, and granted a pension for his maintenance, which un- fortunately they have to pay to this day, as he still lives at Dar-es- Salaam. Another interesting celebrity of Zanzibar who has recently passed away was Tippu-Tib, a name which translated means rifle noise. His hotel at Zanzibar was a great resort for big-game hunters. Without his assist- ance, rumour says, Sir Henry Stanley woukl never have been able to find Livingstone. Tippu- Tib was a great scout , his passport working wonders with the different tribes. He was at one time Governor of the Congo. In the old days, before Mombasa assumed its present importance, Zanzibar meant headquarters for the traveller who came to organize his caravan for Africa, and the Sheikhs did an important business in arranging transportation to the mainland. It still remains the strongest quarter of Arabs in East Africa. It was also the biggest slave-market in the East. Captured blacks from the interior were brought in cargoes to Zanzibar, and here they were distributed, this proving a lucrative business. There are only about one hundred European residents, and most of these represent their different countries, being engaged in the Government. A pretty sight upon entering the harbour are the flags flying from the various consulates. The British Consul 77 STREET SCENE IN NATIVE TOWN. A Woman's Winter in Africa has quite a palace, with a truly lovely garden, near the sea. The inside is most artistic, containing a minstrel gallery and some very fine old carving. Population consists of Swahilis, Arabs, Indians, Goanese, and Greeks, numbering about 260,000. The climate is delightful — slightly hot at midday ; the rains coming during March and April. The palace of the Sultan is the most distinctive building which meets the eye, large and four-storeyed, with verandahs, and a tower from which a flag flutters. Now it is used as Govern- ment offices. The Sultan spends most of his time in Europe enjoying a pension from the British Crown. Here the French Cathedral is fine and imposing, with two high steeples piercing the pellucid sky. A large French Mission Hospital faces the water front, and a short distance away is the white- walled High Court with its red-roofed tower. Decision of law amongst such mixed peoples, religions, and castes must be very complicated. How easy, for the Mohammedan to divorce when by simply saying " Talak " to his wife three times before a witness, he is free to marry again ! The Police are all Swahilis. The Caram, or feast, is indulged in upon momentous affairs, such as a birth, marriage, or death. " All is not beer and skittles," as the old say- ing goes, in travel, and as we have to get to Dar-es-Salaam by six this evening the Adolph Woermann allowed me but one hour on shore. The steamer only calls for mails and to disembark passengers. It was a great disappointment to me, for all my life I have had a desire to visit this wonderful island. I intend to be entirely honest with my public, never describing what I have not seen personally. I have to thank Judge Lindsay Smith for his extreme kindness in giving me valuable in- formation about Zanzibar. He has presided over the High Court here for nearly ten years, so I could not have a better informant. Courteously he piloted me to the harbour and acted as my guide during that altogether too short hour. We visited the main street, which was singularly interesting in its Arab beauty, high buildings close together, and very narrow streets. When a motor — and there are many here — turns the corner, one is bound to lean against the walls in order to let it pass. I took several photographs, and purchased a bracelet made of elephant's tail mounted in gold. Zanzibar is famous for these ornaments. In the shops wonderful African curios abound — carved ivory, ebony, and jewellery. Alas ! that my time was so short ! It was twelve 78 Zanzibar o'clock noon, and between the baking sun and my mad rush, to see as much as possible' was distinctly trying. I lefl " Imp " on the ship, as I did not choose to listen to its views, as I had enough oi my own. Fortunately the Judge was most patient ! The Bazaars were gaudy, and varied little from those at Bombay. However, they are quite worthy of a visit. I was sorry not to be able to drive to the clove plantation, which I am told is most beautiful. Ninety per cent of the world's supply of cloves comes A MONSTER SILK Col ION TREE. from Zanzibar. They are picked while pale green, and 1 can picture these plantations, as I have passed some weeks at the spice gardens of Candy, in Ceylon. If one has time a drive to these aromatic groves should be taken. I visited the English Club, a fine, large structure, with the wonderful carved Arab doors, which are kept in perfect condition. They should be simply polished. The black ebony, with its intricate, lacelike carving, characteristic of Arab architecture, forms an effective relief to the polished brass clamps and spikes with which these doors are decorated. 79 A Woman's Winter in Africa I should love to 'have stayed a week at the Afrika Hotel, but as I had promised our good Captain Iversen not to exceed my hour my conscience kept reminding me to hurry. Regretfully I turn my back on this singularly lovely island, and with grateful thanks to Judge Lindsay Smith I enter a smart Government boat manned by eight jet-black khaki-and-red-clad boatmen, and speed back to the Adolph Woermann. One of the interesting features of Zanzibar is the wonderful skill of its divers. These boys could, I verily believe, live in the water, they appear so perfectly at home in a tiny dug-out, from which they leap and go down yards below surface for pennies. For a shilling they dart under the ship, bounding up on the other side with buoyant fervour. SO C II A P T E R XIII Portuguese Nyasaland Pemba Bay and Port Amelie L\ST night, at about twelve, we encountered a violent thunder- _v storm. Lightning flashed through the cabins, giving a gorgeous illumination, followed by crashing thunder. At breakfast this morning a lady asserted that it seemed as if the very heavens were angry with us ! Sheets of water came down, washing our ship from stem to stern. Consequently when we PEMBA BAY AND PORT AMELIE. awakened, about six o'clock, the elements having composed themselves, the air was cool and clean, for which I assure you one is most grateful. A difference of two degrees in these tropical regions relieves the insupportable heat to a great extent. Mr. Massersmith, the first officer, tells me I must watch the approach to the harbour, as it is very pretty. I follow his advice, camera and glasses in hand. Across a beautiful bay with water like a F 8 1 A Woman's Winter in Africa mirror Port Amelie is reached, named after that charming Queen who till recently ornamented the throne of Portugal. This port could be made into one of the finest harbours in the world by reason of its natural advantages. The large bay is sur- rounded with wooded heights through which wander an abundance of game of all kinds. Lions and leopards one hears the most of. In the transparent water one sees many fish with long snouts, resem- bling our pike ; they dart about , their fins, tail, and a long streak on the under part flashing iridescent blue and silver. Ships drawing the greatest amount of water have it their own way here, on account of the depth. Our own vessel, the Markgraff, anchors within 150 feet of the shore. In time to come, when the railway is completed to Nyasaland, through the rich hinterland, Port Amelie should become one of the richest ports, with undoubtedly the finest harbour on the entire East African coast. Unfortunately, under the Portuguese Government, with all its cross-purposing dissensions between Royalists and Republicans, also the natural sloth of the people strengthened by the disad- vantages of climate, the country is allowed to remain in its primitive state. A great quantity of fine tobacco is grown in the interior, and has to be carried down for shipment, on the heads or backs of natives. Thus they lose three weeks or more before reaching the port. It is hoped that before long the rich Nyasaland Company will take matters into their own hands, build the railway, and open up the country for immigration. From the steamer a collection of one-storeyed, wide, squatty houses, red topped and mostly with blue stuccoed walls, shows a rather pretty village. Trees of mango and baobab give a restful shelter from the intense blueness of sky and water. From the top of the green-topped hill, which is rather a struggle to climb, especially at 11.30 on one of their summer days, a fine view is obtained. I walked up the one and only broad red road, the perspiration dripping from my forehead and falling like tears on my veil. I wore a cork helmet, and carried a pongee sunshade lined with green, which is more than useful here. Eventually arriving on the summit of the hill, one has a charming view of sea on both sides. I discovered the Governor's house, and it could not be railed a palace, even with the greatest wish to please ! A sort of dry garden, laid out in what should have been flowerbeds, was 82 Portuguese Nyasaland terraced with upstanding timber. A building in stucco with a flag- pole and pennant waving marked the official residence oi lid'., the Governor, Moto Deas. Alongside, the most imposing buildings in the place were the two-storeyed offices, in vivid blue, ol the Nyasaland Company. Nyasaland is the only country boast- ing a giraffe on its postage stamps. Across the way. a small but well-kept house was the headquarters for the Commandanl of the Army. The soldiers are recruited from the natives, and the Genera] is Goanese. His huge sentry-box, considering the small- ness and primitiveness of this village in the making, struck me as ostentatious. Next to his house is the hospital. It has very little accommodation, but a splendid view. After conquering the piece de resistance, the hill, 1 turned my attention to the houses, shops, and offices, which straggle along the sand. Under a baobab or cream of tartar tree about twenty or thirty jet- black natives were having a discussion. As they stared at me 1 halted to give them the full benefit, and meanwhile I took mine. Idle different fashions of doing their wool would have puzzled our most noted hairdressers in Bond Street. Their ears, both top and bottom, were threaded with bits of green wood, beads, and all sorts of gewgaws. The native to whom 1 awarded the palm for originality, besides having a band of tin in his hair, also wore a long celluloid comb, quite eight inches in length, of vivid pink colour, This protruding from each side of his head certainly distinguished him for chic and taste. He, ever alert for business, racked his brain how he could acquire silver from the wandering Englishwoman, and at length lie produced two large rhino tusks from under his rags, which I bought for a shilling. With this he was more than content, following me about producing various bits of rubbish. To keep change in these constantly changing ports is a puzzle. What with the English, German, Indian, and Portuguese money, one is almost distracted. Through the courtesy of the agent of the D.O.A.L., Mr. Burggraf, I went ashore in his boat. Six men rowed with great vigour, wearing khaki and tam-o'-shanter caps. As they beach their boats they wade out, two of them place you upon their shoulders and carry you through the shallow water, thus saving you wet feet. Not being accustomed to this mode of travel, I overbalanced myself in some unaccountable way, and had to grip the necks of my carriers to keep from falling. Coming back, however, I «3 A Woman's Winter in Africa managed quite gracefully. The men have a different manner of disembarkation ; they straddle the boys' shoulders, sitting up- right. These natives, instead of smoking cigarettes as we do, put the lighted end in the mouth, seeming to enjoy it most in that fashion. Likewise, if you beckon to a native he runs the other way, and if you motion him to go quickly he at once abates his pace ; in fact, he understands exactly the opposite to what one intends. A lady from Mashonaland relates this stupidity of one of her boys. A new one came, and she told him to fill the tea- kettle. He had never seen one before, and, after some time had IVORY DEALERS, TORT AMELIE. expired, upon inquiry she found him trying to pour water into the spout of it, not realizing that the lid came oh ! I passed the house of a priest, a Portuguese, who had been excommunicated from the Roman Church. He has established himself here, and is doing good work in teaching poor children. I enter the queerest shop I have ever seen to change money. My English pound brought me 5000 reis. The woman, who kept a weird collection of merchandise, was Luda Yilna, a Portuguese, and widow of a captain. She had a pleasant dark face, and possessed quite a good pug dog. She pointed to it and said, " Ingleterra." We both smiled, and an acquaintance was begun, 84 Portuguese Nyasaland I thinking oi my dear black pug so far away in London. I asked for postcards, not expecting to find them, Imt a box was handed down, and contained an assortment of beautiful painted ladies showing white teeth, and having roses in their hair. A rare one was a man's thumb and forefinger holding a glass, through which a woman's face was reflected. As this style of art did not appeal to me, I motioned to the sea. She nodded, and gesticulating to a boy, placed a chair and fan at my disposal, then held up her hand. I understood f was to wait, and while doing so naturally my eyes took in various details. Along the back of this general-provider store ran shelves filled with all kinds of spirits and eatables. In the centre stood a dilapidated billiard-table, scarcely able to stand alone, its sides having disappeared entirely ; but still it spoke of former grandeur. One wonders how it drifted to this out-of-the-way shop. On a shelf, high up near the ceiling, was crockery — plates, cups, and saucers — also washbowls and jugs. Under this was a marble table, very dirty, with some broken pens and writing materials which did not invite correspondence. Then Madame shows me her dining-room. It is an hotel of a pioneer. The table is laid with the most crude and coarse furnishings, and a faded patched punkah hangs above it. All this is most intensely interesting to her, and sometimes when f murmur the word ' good " she understands, and appreciates my compliment. The boy has returned with another box, and in it I find a lew really good photographs of the place. 1 have to pay 8d. each for the cards ; but considering the trouble and cost of production, I do not think them expensive. This ended my unconventional call, much to the regret of Madame, who rarely sees one of her own sex. I am informed that there are only five white men at Port Amelie. Mr. Beste, who is head of the immigration, and from whose house a Union Jack is floating, has six men working under him. They find natives for the Witwatersrand Native Labour Association — -that is, boys who are sent to the Transvaal to work in the mines. We have about a hundred on our ship. I am told that the company get one pound a head, which seems to me to have a close connection with the slavery days which pre- viously flourished so successfully along these shores. Dr. Bostock, Mr. Reed, and Mr. Begg complete the wdiite population, but the European feminine sex is entirely absent. A mine-manager from Johannesburg, to whom I told my 35 A Woman's Winter in Africa opinion about the transportation of these boys, indignantly denies the idea of slavery. He says : " Nothing of the kind, Mrs. Cameron. Those boys are in no way slaves. They are well housed and fed free, their wages varying from £2 5s. to £8 a month." I agree that it in no way hurts the native to work. Leopards frequently are seen close to the shore, many goats being stolen. Lions also make their appearance, and a few months ago an enormous man-eater came over the hills, attacked a native woman and child, and ate them. The next building was a garage ; the door being open and a large motor-car inside, my curiosity compelled me to enter — for to find an up-to-date 40-h.p. Dietrich car in. this place where there are practically no roads was a real surprise. Before I had time to investigate this phenomenon a man came upon the scene ; I was astounded when he addressed me in English. He proved to be a Mr. Begg from Inverness. Both bearing Scotch names we immediately claimed together. He said he was delighted to speak English again, and described Port Ann' lie as desolation itself. He was under contract with the Governor to remain three years, and had brought the motor-car out for the roadless country. They intended to undertake the construction of a road from this port to Nyasa Lake, but after being here a year only three miles of road had been completed. There is really no enterprise in the country. He had his home in the large garage, and showed me a Gatling gun stored there dating from 1879 ; but the wheels of it had been almost destroyed by white ants. Tentatively he asked me if I would like to see his mode of living, and as life in different phases interests me, I willingly agreed. Back of the garage were two rooms. In the eating-room a table standing in wet tins, to keep ants from climbing up its legs, was covered with a Scotch rug of the McLean tartan. On a shelf were a few magazines and books, which he assured me had been read several times over. I promised to send him some magazines from the ship, and did so on my return. In describing his manner of living he told me that it was most difficult to get food. Once a week a man brings a petition, and if enough people sign it a goat is killed, if not they have to go without. He confided to me that he had ordered two pounds of goat for Sunday, though dubious if he should obtain it. The bay is full of fish, but the boys are lazy ; consequently one 86 Portuguese Nyasaland cannot depend upon them for supplies. Vegetables are nil. A good- sized lowl may be obtained for 100 reis 5<1., a smaller for 2d. Eggs they had in plenty, and they cosl a penny for two. I [e showed me the frying-pan, in which reposed two fish looking like soles. "This is my lunch," he laughed. "And will you see my kitchen ? " 1 fdl lowed him into his compound, and there in a corner, constructed out of bamboo and thatched with palms, stood a chicken house, attached to which was his bath — crude indeed. He had to catch rain water to fill it. Next door was what no one would have believed to be a kitchen, but it acted the part with impunity. The MAIN STREET, TORT AMELIE drinking water had to be brought every morning from the hills. They have wells, but their contents are quite salt to the taste. He complained that natives stole his chickens, and with great pride showed me a small garden where he was trying to grow pumpkins. Truly life under such circumstances is trying ! A Portuguese Major came on board, and when one of the passengers unthinkingly said that the country would become more prosperous under either German or English rule, the Major became infuriated, exclaiming, " Never, never ! ' He banged his fists upon the table, left his meal untasted, and went out on deck ! Close by lies the island of Ibo, another fort, star-shaped in this case. It was built in 1791, which fact the inscription on the gate 87 A Woman's Winter in Africa announces. This town was also a great rendezvous of the slave- dealer, who waxed rich on his human harvests. Twenty years ago slavery existed here ; now, although Portuguese, it is under charter to the mighty Nyasa Company. Through the information of Mr. Oldenburg, who has for twenty years made his home here, I learn that in many houses slavery still continues, although not publicly. The families keep the children of their former slaves now by law liberated ; and, although they receive no pay, they are carefully taken care of and given clothes. Many of them have adopted European blouses, and wear gay-coloured scarves around their heads. Ibo lies quite a distance from our anchorage, and we have to pay iooo reis or 4s. for the boat- man there and back. In almost every place one goes ashore in the boat of the D.O.A. Line, which is preferable to any other, mainly be- cause thei r boats are the best , quite safe , and generally charge nothing . The Governor has a residence here, and is at present on the island. The hopes of the people are centred upon rumours of a projected railway between Pemba Bay and the great Nyasa Lake, which, if ever accomplished, will benefit the country to an enormous extent. There are many small coral reef islands dotted about, of no special value, called Kereimba Islands. From Ibo "it is roughly one hour to the mainland. The supply of fish is abundant ; in fact, a great number are exported by Indian dealers to Bombay. There is no hotel of any kind, but Mr. Oldenburg assures me that any stranger arriving is given a hearty welcome and becomes a guest of the different citizens, who do all that is possible in his honour. There is a German, French, Spanish, and Belgian Consul at Ibo, but no English, which seemed to me strange ; but as we have a Consul at Port Amelie, a few hours distant, I presume this gentleman acts for both places. One disagreeable thing about the Portuguese law here is that both white and black have equal rights. This is naturally much deplored by the white man, there being 2500 natives and only fifty white. The rainy season, January to April, is more efficient than in some of the neighbouring places, and sufficient when it comes to enable the inhabitants to produce a variety of fresh vegetables. Cucumbers grow wild here, and I am told are better flavoured than those at home. Ibo and Inhambane are considered the healthiest spots on the Portuguese Coast. The method of travel- ling here is in the picturesque machilla. 88 CHAPTER XIV Mozambique A SMALL island has a tall yellow lighthouse which signals our approach to the ancient and official capital of the Portu- guese. It recalls the adventurous discoveries of da Gama, for his eyes first beheld the green-wooded shores of the East African coast. Mozambique began life as simply a ring of coral reef, but as time progressed through a development of nature earth filtered in and made the island a mile and a half long and about a mile wide. The climate is excessively hot, but it must be taken into con- sideration that it was in the month of January that I landed — on the 25th. This is one of their hottest periods ; it seemed well-nigh unbearable, especially in going over the mediaeval fort. The mainland is close by, rising in misty heights of blue. They had a small revolution the day before I arrived, and I watched an old slave dhow being filled with the mutineers. They were to be conveyed to the hinterland and detained. The prisoners wore chains, gang after gang being hooked together. Having commenced with prisoners and slaves I may as well go on with them. Mozambique is the penal settlement of Portugal. Here are sent not only the ne'er-do-wells of Portugal, but also from far-off Macao in China, and Dongola, a Portuguese possession of the West Coast — all transfer their convicts to this spot. At any rate, they need never complain of the cold ! Very little rain falls. Typhoons, however, frequently pay visits, with disastrous results. If these convicts have friends or relatives who will pay a small sum to the Government, they can be liberated and wander at will over the island. This only occurs, naturally, if a prisoner is well- behaved and law-abiding. Some of them have started little shops —others do housework. A lady I knew had an excellent convict cook who had killed two men. The butler of the Oriental Club, the only one in Mozambique, was also a murderer. Upon going over the prison 1 thought the faces of the convicts were most 89 A Woman's Winter in Africa terrible — murder and villainy of every kind were stamped upon their horrid countenances. The Eastern Telegraph Company have a prominent office here ; nearly all their errand boys are recruited from convicts, likewise the postmen. They wear dark blue uniforms with their number embroidered in red. I met several when driving in a rickshaw along the clean and fairly well-paved streets. They also do the menial labour of the hospital, which is a fine building for a small place, facing the sea. Although Mozambique is said to be un- healthy in regard to malarial fever, the residents assert that it is quite as habitable as other towns on the coast. There is no sani- tation whatever ; buckets take the place of sewers, and are dumped into the sea at night. Electric light has not as yet made its appearance, paraffin lamps illuminating the houses and streets. Rickshaws are the only mode of conveyance, none being public. Each family has its own, drawn by the blackest of negroes, whose skins shine in the broiling sun as the water drips off them. Only cocoanut palms, a sort of gum tree, and acacias grow in the parched soil, for the rainfall is very slight and seldom. The rain is carefully gathered on the cemented roofs, built specially for the purpose, and conducted to underground cisterns ; every morn- ing the boys pump enough water for the household to last the day. As glass is very expensive in this far-away island, most of the Indian houses have wooden shutters half-way up to cover the windows, the top part being filled in with the beautiful shells for which Mozambique is famous. Religion is well observed in this restricted area, there being no less than four Roman Catholic churches, and an Indian Mohammedan house of worship. The mixed population amounts to about 9000 people. Of the white men, about eight are employed by the Eastern Telegraph Company. The various Consuls and firms perhaps number twenty white men all included. Of the feminine gender only three European women live at Mozam- bique—my friend Mrs. Marcus, wife of the German Consul, and two French ladies, wives of traders. These latter, my friend tells me, rarely go out, therefore there are no gossipy teas on this island. Housekeeping is done by the boy cook, who goes to the market and buys what he can. There is an abundance of fine fish in the harbour, which is nearly always obtainable, but all other 90 > < 2 A Woman's Winter in Africa provisions have to be brought in by boats from the mainland. If stormy the boats cannot cross ; then the cook returns with empty baskets, and Madame is obliged to resort to her pantry for her tinned stock, which every practical housekeeper learns to ap- preciate. She always keeps a large reserve in consideration of the changeable markets. Mozambique exports ivory, ebony, oil seeds, amber, rubber, and a few pearls. The pearls are beautiful in colour — pink, brown, and yellow, but rarely white. They say these tints are caused by the native fisher throwing the oyster into boiling water in order to open the shell, thus causing the discoloration. Some of these pearls I have seen mounted into very beautiful ornaments. There are many tortoises in this part, whose shells are exported to Germany. Mrs. Marcus kindly provided us with rickshaws, and we went through the enormous native town to the Portuguese cemetery, which was planned in 1879, and contains many hand- some monuments. Sadly enough, many of these bear English names. A gum tree much resembling a banyan cast refreshing shade, under which we rested looking down upon both arms of the sea shimmering in the sunshine. Along the ocean side we watched the dug-outs and fishers spearing for pearl oysters. Natives carrying large trays of heaped-up cocoanuts on their heads passed through the streets, and herds of goats rambled at will. It was so hot that few people were about, preferring to lie low in their thick-walled, two-roomed and palm-thatched huts. Our next point of interest was the Fort of San Sebastian, which dominates the harbour. It is over four hundred years old, and in ancient days was impregnable. It was built entirely by slaves. The whole of the stone was brought from Europe, by way of the Cape. Can you picture those days ? I can, when I see these old wooden dhows assemble around our ship for cargo, their huge prows carved with figure-heads, and having one or two broad sails. The hold, in which hundreds of slaves were battened down without air, chained hand and foot for fear they would jump overboard ! What misery and torture they must have suffered ! Their burning thirst would have been insupportable. With what hatred and dread they regarded the dealer and his men when they appeared in the native Tabora hinterland villages, and, surrounding them, forced them by the power of steel to surrender and follow. One 92 Mozambique meets many of these ancient dhows in every port along the coast. What sad stories they could relate ' At the entrance ol the antiquated fort a stone tablet caugh.1 my eye, on which was inscribed : ' Vive la Republique. Oct. 5th, 1910." The touch of modernity contrasted strangely with the historic pile erected here in 151 1 ! We entered, and came upon an immense quadrangle painted yellow. The Portuguese forbi 1 white paint on any of the buildings, thinkirg that white intensifies the glare ; therefore blue, pink, red, and yellow houses SPRINGBOK RESTING. are seen everywhere. Our guide took us through the fort, but there was nothing interesting or original. In the grilling heat we humbly followed him to the top, where a dried-up garden struggled to live on the high bastion walls. A number of obsolete cannon and balls furnished a dreary outlook, while the view was of no great importance. I do not remember having ever felt the heat more than upon the shadowless battlements of this most celebrated fortress in Portuguese history. Descending we saw some of the convicts ; they wore heavy leg- irons of primitive pattern. One I felt sorry for. He was a young man with quite a nice face, and although shackled tried to read 93 A Woman's Winter in Africa a paper. The rest looked more like baboons than men. One felt they had arrived at their proper destination. Having described the disagreeable features, I will now en- deavour to show the pleasant side of life in Mozambique. Our rickshaws stopped at the largest house — rest fully grey painted— on the water front. It is the home of Mr. and Mrs. Marcus. Mr. Marcus is the German Consul, and also one of the heads of that well-known firm Wm. Philippi and Co., whose offices have been a familiar landmark from Mombasa downward. Mrs. Marcus and her delightful baby were my fellow- voyagers from Dar-es-Salaam. With her habitual kindness she invited Captain Bremer, Mr. and Mrs. Henry, and myself to luncheon, also most of the European men stationed here. We were a merry party of fifteen at table. The luncheon was served in charming style, with iced beverages, a large blue punkah, pulled by a boy, giving a cool breeze. The party might be compared with an Elysian feast after our sightseeing morning in a tempera- ture verging on no degrees — that in the shade ! The house of Mr. Marcus is several hundred years old, and was formerly a monastery ; the walls are quite a yard in depth, keeping out the heat and glare. The rooms were immense and very lofty. The staircase, with curious carvings, was wide enough for the proverbial coach and four. In the windows fine wire netting prevented mosquitoes from penetrating — the insects are a great nuisance here. It was alto- gether a very comfortable home— our host and hostess perfectly de- lightful. For many years I shall carry that picture of Mozambique hospitality in my heart. Everyone has been extremely kind all along the coast. Sadly I regret that as a passer-by I can in no way reciprocate unless some of these good friends come to my own country. Captain Bremer informed us that time was up, and he must speed the Markgrofj across tropical blue. Reluctantly we said adieu and left for the small boats. The embarkation is rather curious. Water along the beach being shallow, two black boys grab you, hoist you on their shoulders, and rush into the water, carrying you dry-shod to your ship. If one is not accustomed to this sort of riding one is liable to fall off. You must grip the negro on the top of his head, rising and falling to his movement, as you do when riding a horse ! On arriving we discovered some of the passengers had bought lovely shells, lans in native work, starfish 94 Mozambique of <lull drub striped with handsome red, and fine big fish look- ing like salmon. A tinted sunset of pink and gold watch* s as out of harbour as wo speed towards Reira. The food on the Markgraff is all that could be desired, and the attentions of Captain Bremer and his fust officer, Mr. Massersmith, make us feel very welcome guests. I wish to add a note about the delicious mango. How marvellous that Nature has perfected this luscious fruit for the benefit of the ever-thirsty in such a warm climate ! Our ship has 1200 mangoes on board ; we all enjoy them iced, three times a day. I have never met anyone who failed to appreciate this red-gold fruit, which you dig into with a spoon from its dark emerald cup. Some say that a mango should be eaten in a bath tub, but the usual way is to slice off two sides as near the large stone as possible. Our first officer has taught us a better way. Take a knife and cut the mango in a circular direction around the middle as far as the stone. This done, twist the two halves like a corkscrew, then the pieces are cleft and fall cleanly apart. A special amusement on the Markgraff is at sundown to watch the heterogeneous mixture of our three hundred deck passengers. Every religion, colour, size, and condition can be seen, each living its own life. For instance, two stoves with glowing embers light up one side of the deck. These are for Hindoo and Mohammedan to cook their food as religion and caste decide. A Chinaman hurries along with a pail of water and a raw fish — this constituting his repast. The Indians spread clean straw mats and sit about cross-legged diving into pots of curry and rice with naked fingers. Weak tea or water is their beverage. Some are clothed in a rag or two, others wear rich raiment — all is life and bustle stimulated by chatter and excitement. They laugh and sing, a few tunes are struck upon peculiar stringed instruments — life is indeed very merry. As the sun goes down every Mohammedan, gazing Mecca- wards on bended knees, offers up his prayers to Mohammed the Faithful. DONT'S BY " IMP" Don't waste time on this port. Don't go ashore unless you have friends. There are no public conveyances. 95 CHAPTER XV Beira I DEFY the most enthusiastic traveller to describe Beira as beautiful, or even approaching beauty in any way. A first impression is of a low-lying streak of sand upon which huddle a lot of grey-looking buildings, protected by wide clinging verandahs. Beira is reached through the mouth of the rivers Pungwe and Busi ; we have to engage the services of a pilot to guide us up to this dreary-looking but important anchorage of Rhodesia. One could imagine the late Right Hon. Cecil Rhodes, that truly colossal organizer, after surveying the giant possibilities of Mashonaland and Matabeleland, consulting his confreres and saying : ' The country will not advance without a port. A couple of you go down to the coast, look sharp, and see what you can do." And Beira, under the charter of the Mozambique Company, was chosen to be the outlet for the enormous exports of Southern Rhodesia and Manica- land. It is said that soon it will act in like capacity for the rich copper mines of the Congo. I had been told I should encounter much anxiety and dis- courtesy in passing my baggage at the Custom House ; that one must pay duty on everything one brought ashore ; and especially severe were the officers about cameras. I, having two rather good ones, naturally felt apprehensive, but was agreeably surprised to meet an official who was most polite, who passed my eight pieces, and only asked me to open my dressing-case. If one believed all that people tell one on board ship, one would indeed get into all sorts of difficulties. It was with real regret I said good-bye to Mr. and Mrs. Henry when I left the Markgraff. We had been fellow-voyagers since Port Said, and enjoyed the shore excursions together. They go on to Durban, while " Imp " and I proceed a thousand miles inland. The heat at Beira is cruel, intensified by the burning sand, which oozes over and into your shoes as you plough your way 96 ] >eira along, eventually arriving at the main street. There you find a narrow elevated stone pavement, which you joyfully accept as a blessing. I was told the Savoy Hotel was the best, and it being quite a short distance I preferred to walk. A few stunted pine trees cast fitful shade and, assisted by acacias and tall rank grass, furnish the decorative verdure for these streets. On each side are one- and sometimes two-storeyed shops built of corrugated iron ; in fact, that unattractive material absolutely rules this place. ■iL^^'t NATIVE HOMES. You see it everywhere — buildings, fences, in new and dilapidated conditions. One ponders on the fortunes which must have accrued from this useful material. I glance into the shops. General merchandise prevails. Yellow- boots, shoe strings, tin trunks, fancy calico to suit Kaffir taste, biscuits, and inferior whisky make up the contents of these small emporiums. In all my travels, which include most places on the globe, 1 have never remarked so many bars. At every two doors one encounters signs proclaiming only pure drink is served, and G 97 A Woman's Winter in Africa the different names of the bars, Imperial, Carlton, and so on, suggest that every one^possesses a famous cognomen. Along the centre of the weird streets runs a narrow-gauge tram- line, and in no other part of the world have I seen this method of transit. A ghari, which resembles a half-cut wooden garden seat, holding two instead of the usual four, and mounted on small wheels, is lifted on to the track. To protect the head a rickshaw hood is arranged ; two people seat themselves and two negroes push it along quickly. A rickshaw-trolley would be a m re appropriate name for these conveyances. I arrive at the hotel, and find a large and lofty building with verandahs around the entire house. The rooms are clean, com- fortably furnished, and spacious. The halls and sitting-rooms are cool ; in the latter, to my intense joy, I found a really good selection of papers and pictorials which every traveller who has lost track of home news welcomes with gratitude. Mr. and Mrs. Ellis are the proprietors of this up-to-date house, and do all in their power to increase the comfort of their guests. Many distinguished travellers have made a sojourn here, among them the Duchesse d'Aosta, that Princess who gained such popularity on account of her philanthropic work as the Royal nurse during the Italian war with Tripoli, and is also renowned as a traveller and big-game shot. Other prominent visitors have been Earl Grey and Lord Milner. The charges rt the Savoy vary from 15s. to 25s. per day, in accordance with the situation of the rooms. The custom of this hotel is to send up tea at 5 a.m. To Europeans it seems rather early, but if you know your Beira you will soon be glad to get up when it is yet cool and the mosquitoes are quiescent. At eight there is served a breakfast, which I never took, because at 11.30 the lunch-breakfast is partaken of, after which, it being unbearably hot, everyone has a siesta until awakened by a boy bringing tea at three. More bathing and dressing, and about five you order your private trolley to be affixed to the rails and cff you go. There are no public trolleys. At the hotel they have six, which one can hire, otherwise one would have to depend upon the generous instincts of friends to lend theirs. There is a really fine golf course, which attracts many, and one can rely upon a cool breeze blowing late in the afternoon. The trolleys conduct you two routes only. One is to the beach of Ponto Je, where it is pleasant to sit on the fine sand and watch 98 fa W O p-1 A Woman's Winter in Africa the sunset ; the other takes you four or five miles into the country. The beauty of the glossy-leaved cocoanut palms en route is dimmed by the malignant mangrove swamps through which you must pass ; and as you look down into the dark mud and figure to yourself how many trillions of anopheline mosquitoes are born nightly, whose sole ambition is to plant malarial germs in human flesh, you long for cooler climes. They tell me that great improvements in sanitation have taken place at Beira in recent times, but if the authorities would only take a leaf from the book of hygienic precautions which the Americans at Panama have so efficiently tested, by simply the lavish use of crude oil, fever and mosquitoes would eventually be wiped out here as effectually as in that giant waterway — another wonder of the world about to be opened. Two years ago I travelled extensively in South America, and through the kind courtesy of Colonel Goethals, the chief of the executive of the Canal Zone, I had the good fortune to motor along the entire route ; and no traveller can resist giving vent to enthusiastic praise when it is seen how the Americans have transformed Panama from one of the most deadly unhealthy places the world has ever known to a tropical resort which, from a health point of view, leaves nothing to be desired. Dinner is at 7.30. The large dining-room is cool ; one is waited on by black boys in white linen, and the food is always good. In 1 1 lis. country, where one is ever thirsty, the scale of prices for liquid refreshment is at first startling. No drink is less than one shilling, even for the humble lemon squash. Frequently there are neither lemons nor limes, and the supply of ice is also occasionally exhausted. Then you order a soda with a dash of lime juice from the bottle, but the cheque you sign is for the eternal shilling. A glass of beer is the same price. For whisky and soda is. 6d. is charged. In looking over the wine list I find that the Portuguese wine Serradayres, in both red and white, can be obtained for 3s. a bottle ; and it is excellent for an ordinary wine, proving quite a blessing. Mrs. Ellis tells me that the wine of Portugal is admitU d to this country free, while on spirits the duty is high. She also confided that they pay £200 a month rent for the hotel, that all food-stuff is very clear, and in many cases impossible to obtain ; therefore they are obliged to import much in the way of tinned food from Europe, which of course at this distance is most expensive. 100 Beira A few years ago there was a greal land boom in Beira, and speculators rushed in, buying plots with dreams of selling to advantage. Hie boom passed, as the vacant land, overgrown with rank salt grass, bears witness. Burns says, " The best-laid schemes o' mice and men gang alt a-gley." There is very little social gaiety at Beira. The Englishmen meet at their club, and the Gremio dos Empregadoz de .Mozam- bique, which has a prettily situated club house, is much patronized by the Portuguese. The Governor has a rather tine house and garden, where lie entertains frequently. At present, counting up the houses that are exempt from the everlasting tin, there are only about six buildings in all Beira built of the more substantial brick. Obviously Carnival tills a prominent place here, as I saw si^ns of fancy dress and masks exhibited as the foremost attractions in the shop windows. From June till September the climate is ideal, and Beira is quickly achieving a reputation as a pleasant place in which to spend a holiday by the inhabitants of Rhodesia who have neither time nor inclination to go further afield. Now it is their hottest season, and very trying. What with the heat and the mosquitoes, life becomes a misery. The Zambesi Express to Salisbury and Victoria Falls leaves Beira three times a week ; as I have just missed my connection I am obliged to wait here four whole days, which 1 exceedingly regret — the time might have been passed to greater advantage. Last night I found an ideal spot on a ten ace built out to the sea from my hotel. There was a moon which mercifully shielded the dilapidated tin abhor- rences, and from my elevated position I looked int< i the back garden of the hotel. The aridncss was covered, and in the light and shadow it appeared quite lovely. I congratulated myself and soliloquized : If I had to live at Beira I should sleep all through the hot day and live in the garden by night. But being a tender- foot my calculation fell instantly. I counted without my host, so to speak, and forgot His Majesty Mosquito, who rules here— I must use the old formula- ' not wisely, but too well." He was furious, as he had not dined, and he and his relations, who wen' innumerable, fastened themselves upon me. Result : This morning, as I regard myself in the mirror, with the vivid embroidery on arms and chest worked by Phcebus at Dar- es-Salaam and the bumpy bites left by His Ruling Highness and family at their last night's carnival, I am sure I should be at once IOI A Woman's Winter in Africa exhibited if a Freak Museum existed in these parts. I told " Imp " I wished I were a spirit like him instead of a mortal clothed in eatable flesh. But " Imp " is never sympathetic. After luring me out here he says : " Well, you're seeing things, and going to the Great Falls ! ' " Not only seeing, ' Imp,' I protest, ' but feeling things as well ! " I have been introduced to a few British residents who are connected with the banks and the Mozambique Company, and they drop in after dinner for a chat. We exchange views on home life, politics, literature, and the stage. I tell them all about the Imperial Durbar at Delhi last year, which I had the opportunity to attend as I represented several journals, and wrote a novel based upon that historic occasion. They in their turn relate stories of interesting adventures through which they have passed in this wonderful vast land — the Eldorado of the future. Mr. Duncan, of the Standard Bank, for a holiday elected to camp with friends near the Golden Valley and on the banks of the Sanyati River. He started off with a native servant and three dogs to procure something cookable for the party. Unfortunately he lost his way, wandering along the banks of the river quite three miles away. He kept walking until midnight, when hungry and exhausted he shot a guinea-fowl, cooked and ate it for his supper. He fired the usual distress signal — two shots in quick succession —but there was no response. Being tired, and not knowing his whereabouts, he made his boy cut some grass, and, throwing himself upon his crude bed, was soon fast asleep. His sleep, however, was destined to be short, for he was awakened by his boy violently shaking him and shouting breathlessly, " Vuka, Bass ' " Wake up, Sir,"- -" nanzi ingonna '; ' There is a lion ! " It was a dark night, and when Mr. Duncan opened his eyes he saw, not twenty yards off, three lions with six luminous eyes fixed upon him. Meantime they were uttering low guttural grunts with internal mutterings. The dogs, deceived by an opposite wind, which swept away the scent, rushed out, but hastened back instantly, pursued by a lion. The dogs were terrified, their hair standing on end. Mr. Duncan, with quick forethought, set alight his grass bed, springing behind the blaze, whereupon the three lions, grumbling, retired a little farther back, still keeping watch, though they dared not approach the fire. He then discovered a tree, which he promptly climbed, and hauled 102 o o - A Woman's Winter in Africa his native up after him, the dogs whining at the foot of the trunk. Meanwhile the lions reassembled, and kept an unweary- ing watch upon the tree, never ceasing their weird hunting grunt. The gentleman having only five cartridges left dared not waste any, fearing further emergencies. Thus man and beast waited until dawn, when the three lions strode slowly away into the forest. After waiting till he was assured the man-eaters had really departed he found his way back to camp, and his friends regaled him with their experience of the night. They had heard a lion attack a baboon from across the river, which was only a stone's throw from them. They were obliged to listen to the baboon's barks of distress and afterwards to the crunching of the bones, accompanied for a short time by its agonized cries, which closely resembled those of the human voice. My friend once saw about three hundred baboons assemble on Sable Hill. A short time ago a lion crouching on the railway lines fifty miles from Beira was run over, and a lion has been seen only five miles from Beira. The whole country is full of game. Unsuccessfully I have sought for curios in the different shops. One would think that skins, tusks, and Kaffir work would find a sale, but up to the present I have been disappointed. The Queen's Hotel, which is only a few yards away, was for many years the only hotel in Beira. Prices range from ios. 6d. per day. Furthermore, at the Savoy, the quality is unquestionable. The various bottles bear the well-reputed name of Fortum and Mason, and one reasons that to have the best in the circumstances is the better policy. A peculiarity of Beira is the ever-present bugle call from the barracks. One would think a big army was quartered near by, and that war had been declared. The prestige of Europe is well maintained, as there are iooo residents against 4000 natives, which is a much higher average than in many of'the ports I have visited. The rainfall at Beira is limited, and when a drought arrives the question of water supply becomes a serious matter. As in most of these towns, the water is collected from the roofs and runs clown into huge tanks ; for instance, at the Savoy Hotel, where they really do try to give one as much luxury as possible, the baths are of salt water, and very salt it is ; and in a climate like this, where one would like to bathe twice a clay, it is 104 Beira a serious drawback. Bougainvillaea flourishes exceedingly well, but has no rivals, as there is a dearth of flowers. I must not forget to mention that on the way to the beach one passes an ugly bull ring, constructed of the ubiquitous corru- gated iron, and painted a suitable blood-red. The bull-fights here S.S. 'ELEONORE UOERMANN. are tame, they complain ; they follow the Portuguese rule, the bulls being tortured but not killed. 1 was very much amused by a remark of Mrs. Ellis. She said : I don't know why it is, but of all the writers who come to Beira not one has a good word to say about it, while we think it's not at all a bad place." Mrs. Ellis and her family have lived here for sixteen years — and " there is no place like home." DONTS BY " IMP" Don't stay more than a few days at Beira ; what with the damp, heat, and the mosquitoes, you will have had enough. 105 CHAPTER XVI Beira — Train Journey to Victoria Falls I ENTER the Mail Express of the Beira and Mashonaland and Rhodesia Railway (that's the way they put it), and Mr. King, the chief clerk, has kindly arranged every detail for my convenience and comfort. I arrive at the station feeling rather forlorn, for, after all, " Imp " is not much company, and to my surprise I am received, so to speak, as a persona gvatx. " Oh, we know of you, Mrs. Cameron ; your compartment is reserved, and we trust you will have a very pleasant journey." I feel rather like a child going through the joys of a surprise party, because I really experience a sense of loneliness in invad- ing Rhodesia and advancing nearly a thousand miles towards the Victoria Falls, which are situated almost in the middle of Africa. The train starts at once. My ticket to the Falls includes my stopping anywhere I will, and amounts to £11 18s. o,d. single, not return ! The carriages are most comfortable, with upper and lower berths. They are wainscoted in yellow oak, with a wash- stand and latest improvements in nickel plate. A large mirror hangs over this, and the top forms a most convenient table, on which I am now writing. There is electric light, enabling you to read without straining your eyes, and plenty of hooks are handy on which to hang clothing. The Metropolitan Amalgamated Railway Carriage and Waggon Co., Ltd. (a long enough name, surely), has been responsible for the building of these coaches in Manchester. After leaving Beira the country is flat, and we pass many cocoanut plantations of large dimensions. I regret that I was unable to visit that titanic sugar plantation at Lusitana, some twenty miles from Beira. It consists of 300,000 hectares, and employs 30,000 natives. They told me that as Mr. Alfred Lawley, the manager, was in Europe, they were not showing this estate, which is considered to be perhaps the finest in Africa. 106 Beira Leaving the station punctually to the moment, we pass through natural pasture lands, well wooded. It being the dry season there is a great deal of dust, as there would be at home travelling in the summer. We enter a jungle, through which a red trailing shrub, casting decorative festoons; makes a trellis-work from tree to tree Round Kaffir kraals, with thatched palm-leaf roofs, are clustered about with vines, and as it is late in the afternoon the Kaffirs have lighted a lire under their black iron pots and sit cross-legged watching the evening meal being cooked. There appears to be no hurry on this railway line. We stop first at a jungle, which is cither glorified or detracted by a tin building, and answers to tie; appellation of Dondo. I do not know if this spot is supposed to bs exhilarating or not, but we stop, presumably to give a drink to our engine, and also to enable the natives to sell pineapples. They bring them along, strung on a pole. I find them rather small, and not having the delicious flavour of the West indies fruit. With a sudden jolt we pass through a jungle so dense with shielding, secreting lianes that its mysteries are impenetrable. Here the lion and big game generally will be wandering in search of a piece de resistance in the shape of a nice young zebra or some other toothsome morsel. The sunset flings out two huge weird wings of cloud, and it looks as if they attached themselves to guard an enormous sacrificial altar reminiscent of Egyptian times. These wings devour the sun and separate, reappearing dressed in purple and lined with gold. We cross a pretty river, and arrive at Ponte do Pungue, whose importance, as far as one can see, consists of four tin establishments, some goats, and very thin, evildooking cats. Certainly " Nestle's Cream ' has played no part in the existence of the latter. Now the Orb of Day bids good night and sinks behind a golden blaze, crimson cloud curtains drape the horizon, and the dining-car attendant announces ' Dinner is served." The dining-car, built in England, is much the same as our own. Electric fans and lights add to our comfort ; the waiters are exceedingly polite, attending to your every want. Pretty flowers in silver vases give a homelike touch. Here is the menu, and considering the difficulties of procuring and cooking food-stuffs, it is excellent, while the price, 3s. 6d., cannot be called extortionate. 107 A Woman's Winter in Africa MENU. Beira and Mashonaland and Rhodesia Railway Refreshment Department. Breakfast, 2s. 6d. Luncheon, 3s. Dinner, 3s. 6d Soup. Consomme Pate d'ltalienne. Fish. Baked Mullet — sauce Maitre d'Hotel. Entrees. Braised Ox Heart, Green Peas. Joints. Roast Sirloin, horse-radish sauce. Leg of Mutton, red currant jelly. Roast chicken and sausage. Boiled potatoes and cabbage. Rice pudding. Biscuits and cheese. Coffee. Lhe food is very fair, but my thoughts revert to the wonderful cuisine of the Lrain d? Luxe going to the Riviera, and to the restaurant at the Calais terminus, where the roast chicken, cooked by French culinary artists, is tender and succulent. Here the fowls are flavourless and their bones fleshless. I do not for an instant complain, if one always had as good one would be fortunate ; but as I am writing this book without any interest or commission from anyone I shall endeavour to chronicle absolutely things as I find them. It is a pity to spoil good food in preparation. I am the only woman on the train, and at my table were three Portuguese. Lheir few words of English were polite, also their manners. I recall my grandmother's maxim, which, having been impressed on my brain at a youthful stage, always dwells in my memory. She was a great traveller for her times. Her admonition was : " Remember, my child, whenever you travel you are an unpaid ambassador to your country, so never miss a chance to advance our prestige and honour." My Sprite of Travel, ' Imp," impertinently answers that this was good advice. Now the night is terribly dark, and finds " Imp " and myself speeding into the heart of Rhodesia. I complain to " Imp " : " It's a long way from home, and the solitude is gloomy." But 108 Be-ira Imp," as usual, chastises me by saying: " Are you not glad that you have not a lot of people to dinner in London, to whom you must display your best linen and silver, fuss about arranging flowers, and so forth? You said you were tired of friends and Society." " Yes, but, ' Imp,' 1 certify, " I had perhaps been doing a little too much. This is solitude indeed." ' I know one time you said to me," continues " Imp," ' you were weary of listening to the complaints of dissatisfied married women. ( )ne had a husband who she feared was not faithful, and she asked your advice about having him followed by a private detective. Another friend of yours was tortured by the jealousies of her Benedict : some wanted charity, and they poured out their troubles to you. You were bored — surely this is better, seeing God's country." " One thing, my ' Imp of Travel,' 1 never am able to please you, even though I risk my life for your sake," I mournfully add. " You're rather weak, and I don't know what you would do without me," lamented my phlegmatic emissary. The egoism of " Imp " is detestable. I refuse to listen further, and gaze out into the black night. Through the murkiness a wonderful cinematograph rushes past, which I intently stare at through the two-yard-square window-pane of my compartment. The moon condescends to appear, rudely pushing past stately silver clouds. Queer, uncanny cries of animals and birds drift through my sleepy brain. Some bird pours forth lovely roulades, interrupted by the croak of countless frogs. One thinks of the wild animals — the hartebeest, eland, buffalo, leopard, zebra, and lion -who may be wandering out there in the thick jungle. At five the next morning we pass through a beautiful forest with enormous quantities of flowers of all colours ; but the most remarkable is tree after tree covered with red and white lilies which resemble those of the Japanese Arum family. I cannot quite distinguish if this is a vine of lilies acting as a parasite to the tree or if the flower belongs to the tree itself ; at any rate, the effect remains charming. As the mist clears well-wooded mountains come into view, and the sun, from a horizon of gold, ushers in another day. About 5.30 we reach the small and pretty station of Macequece. Here amongst gardens of roses I can see the lily I describe, and find it grows on bushes and trees of its own, and refutes the idea of being a parasite. At Macequece we enter the mountains of 109 A Woman's Winter in Africa Manicaland. About here, rumour states, was the ancient site of the Land of Ophir. Perhaps 3000 years ago Solomon, King of Israel, drew the supplies of gold from this land with which he dazzled the Queen of Sheba. Herodotus hands down descriptions of the sacred images, some of them in solid gold, forty feet high, and various sacred emblems which received universal admiration during the reign of Nebuchadnezzar, King of Babylon. The precious gold of those wealthy times was known to be found in Africa. Through the discoveries of Dr. Carl Peters, Phoenician tomb- stones and ruins have been brought to light, proving that Manicaland had been considerably inhabited centuries ago. Macequece is the mining headquarters of the Mozambique Company. A puff and a snort and we are in motion again. The scene has changed. We are on a bridge looking down into a tropical swamp. A summer shower is falling, although the sun is still shining on the mountains. An old frog, who forgets that the dawn has arrived, wheezes gloomily, and a pretty pink bird raises silver wings and sails away. In the early morning, fresh with the glittering dew, this forest is enchantingly beautiful, with its mile after mile of lilies. I ask the conductor what they are called. He shrugs his shoulders, and shakes his head. " I don't know. Some folks call it white weed." Of course he wouldn't know. They never notice lilies, although they travel through this wonderful scenery every day. To me, who love Nature with all my being, it is inconceivable not to notice or appreciate its beauties. The waiter has brought me a cup of hot liquid, and I cannot make up my mind whether it is tea, coffee, or chocolate. It tastes like neither, but the concoction is not bad, it has a lot of milk in it, and, as I drain the cup to its dregs, I think it must have been weak cocoa. More huge trees of lilies nod their heads as we race by. The earth is very red and reminds me of Ceylon. Umtali is reached at 7.45 a.m. It might be called the gate to Rhodesia, and how different from Beira ! Truly this is a white man's country. It is over 3000 feet above sea-level, and situated amongst delightful mountains, whose wooded sides, with the sun shining through the mist in iridescent shades, make a picture long to be remembered. Many English people are assembled at the station. They 1 10 Beira are possessors of good complexions, brown and healthy. It was pleasant again to meet them alter such a surfeit of Portuguese and natives. Here the air is fresh, breathable and invigorating. Two hotel porters in smart, clean clothes solicit patrons for the Royal and Cecil Hotels. Our old friend Sunlight Soap is present, in the garb of a Dutch girl, and hangs on the side of the tin refreshment room in great prominence. Uintah is the centre of some very rich gold mines, and is also one of the strong- holds of the Chartered Company. One sees many churches, and the huge shed upon leaving the station, belongs to the repairing shops of the railway. Very fortunate is Umtali in its generous water supply. The rainy season lasts from November till the end of March, good drinking water being obtainable and laid on to all the houses. Leaving the town the scenery continues interesting. Queer- shaped, conical mountain heights form fantastical shapes. Through the far-seeing eyes of one of England's greatest sons, Cecil John Rhodes, the man who " thought in empires," this vast wonder- ful Rhodesia is ours ; and future generations will ble^s the name of him who has given innumerable homes to overcrowded Britain. It is such a relief, after the scaleling heat I have passed through along the East Coast, to enjoy vitality, coolness blowing off the mountains, and the generously flower-laden atmosphere. Patches of mealies and a few thatched Kaffir kraals form the only signs of habitation as the train proceeds on its way through miles of fertile land, and my thoughts turn to those thousands of suffering humanity, the flotsam and jetsam of suffering London, who in the cold, damp winter eke out a miserable existence, crowded in close unhealthy quarters, while this smiling vast Rhodesia woulel give them life and happiness if only they coukl reaeh it. Quite a nice breakfast has been served. We had tinned kippers, which were not at all untasty, eggs, and a long list of things which 1 did not sample. How different is travel in these days, one thinks, when one can go in comfort, compared with the old pioneer times, not so far back, with meals picked up wherever they could be obtained ! I guarantee that in those days it was not a epiestion of choosing, it was simply one of "' Give me what you have." Long coach rides of many hours' duration, jolting over rough tracks, aggravate the appetite. A queer land of marvellously placeel rocks comes into view. By some freak of Nature these 1 1 [ A Woman's Winter in Africa rocks are mounted, in nondescript shapes, one over another, forming weird effects. Some are poised at such an angle that one would imagine the slightest push would send them over. Others shape themselves to look like villages in the distance, and a variegated floral carpet creeps up close to the rocks with loving solicitude. At nine o'clock punctually, the Mail Express arrived at Salis- bury. The train waits two hours, and I thought it would be interesting to dine at the Commercial Hotel. It is more central than the Queen's, which I had heard well spoken of. It was very dark, and I was surprised that in the capital of Rhodesia the streets were not lighted. At the hotel they told me electric light is about to be installed and also that water — which is of an excel- lent quality- — will scon be laid on at the different houses. I I was glad to see the familiar figures of horses. During my long trip down the East Coast since I left Port Said, I had never seen a horse, their great enemy the tsetse-fly making existence impossible. At Salisbury there are many motor-cars, rickshaws, with native runners, and hotel omnibuses ; therefore there are plenty of ways of getting about this sprawled-out town, which in a way resembles an octopus with its tentacles spread in all directions. The wide main street appeared to have attractive shops, but darkness forbade even a conjecture as to what they contained. I found myself at the Commercial Hotel, and at once went in to dinner. I confess I was a little disappointed in the hotel. One sees many of the South African millionaires in the best restaurants and hotels of London, and one wonders how they can put up with the accommodation given out here. They must occasionally visit the properties from which their great wealth is obtained. I entered a long narrow dining-room, whose walls were papered in dark red, while a frieze about six inches in width depicted im- possible mountains and crimson islands. There was no covering on the board floors, but one strip of cocoanut-fibre matting wandered down the centre. Several stuffy green portieres decorated the doors. Plenty of pretty flowers were on the tables, and the waiters wore white, with a broad red sash over their shoulders, which ended in a huge impressive tassel at the side, and meretriciously reminded one of the Grand Cordon de Legion d'Honneur of France. The dinner was uninteresting : fish peculiar, grilled rump steak like 1 12 "I y (i. > <& H ss D O u o H !'3 A Woman's Winter in Africa leather ; roast sirloin the same. The boiled parsnips I managed to eat— they were at least tender. Stewed quince and custard I declined and chose devilled sardines. These proved impossible. The price of the dinner was 4s., with drinkables just as expensive as in all these parts. Afterwards I wandered into a very well-arranged reading- room and looked over the papers. Everyone was courteous, and I was shown upstairs, where there are two sitting-rooms, and on the balcony a tea bungalow, as they called it, encircled a portion of the building. Here were placed comfortable wicker chairs and small tables. A lady was sitting by herself, and as I experienced a feeling of loneliness we began talking. She had recently come to the country from England, with her husband ; they were both twenty-two, she confided. They had bought their farm and were now live-stocking it. She naturally hoped to succeed and build home and fortune in her adopted country. " Speaking of making money in the farming line," she said, " why, eggs are 4s. 6d. a dozen, and butter half a crown a pound." It appears that farmers at the end of the season, when the revenues of toil come in, re-invest as much of the amount as possible in buying additional land and stocking the farm — which certainly shows the right spirit and their faith in the great future of the land. Without a doubt Rhodesia has one of the finest climates in the world. It is elevated, and can be compared with Riviera conditions, without that deadly chill which lurks in shadows in that part of Europe. If the day is warm there is an ample breeze at night, and one awakes refreshed in the morning. The people who live here are pictures of sturdy, bronzed health and strength. The women wear cotton gowns or coats and skirts of light material, with shady-brimmed hats. The men stand and walk with the easy grace of strong manhood. They favour large felt hats rather than cork helmets, and wear leather belts, as they are often in shirt sleeves, though they always don coats to come into the restaurant car. There are as yet no postmen in Salisbury. All mail is sent to the General Post Office, where people have their private boxes, and either call or send for it. Most of the buildings I can discern are erected with the ever-present corrugated iron, but they are made more pleasing to the eye by a coat of paint. I fancy it 114 I Jeira mus1 be one of the social functions of Rhodesia for the in- habitants to gather at the station on the approach of a mail train, for there is a large crowd, and the shaking hands and embrac- ings lor intended departures are interesting to witness as one sits in solitude. Not being able to see anything of Salisbury in the murky night, I came back to my compartment in the train early, and therefore had plenty of opportunity for studying the people, and it was very engaging to listen to the cheers and parting exclamations of a family of English on their way home to that great-little island when the train pulled out of the station. ' For he's a jolly good fellow ! " roared and echoed for some time in the distance. It made me think of Doncaster with its Yorkshire roar, and how it used to please King Edward when with one mighty ringing voice the mob on the racecourse yelled, " Teddy ! Teddy ! Good old Teddy ! " And the " Peacemaker," whose courtesy was phenom- enal, would stand, his hat in his hand, and a big cigar in his mouth, bowing and smiling to his loyal folk. When I entered the restaurant car to order one of those precious lemon squashes that cost 2s., and are mostly made of cheap Portuguese mineral water, the conductor asked me how I liked my dinner at the hotel. I said, " We had better dinners on the train." He was exceedingly gratified, and added, ' Kveryone says the same thing, Madam." On my return from the Victoria halls I intend staying in Salisbury, and in the sunshine I shall be able to see things better. As the train rushes through the country I glance at the tele- graph wires which glisten in the light of the engine. There are three, and one will be the cable. Pages of history, ruin, and romance float through my brain as I think what that cable has meant to many — how fortunes have been won and lost as this tiny wire flashed mining tips across continents ; how many thousands of pounds have changed hands by the message borne on that slender thread of unimportant-looking copper. The next morning I awoke at dawn, dressed, and sat by the window watching the scudding scenery as it vanished in the dist ance. There are many trees bright and fresh in colour, evidence that we have left the dry lands behind, and thickly clothed hills look down upon wide valleys. Suddenly 1 am conscious of a dull distant roar of some mighty unseen force. The conductor is "5 A Woman's Winter in Africa passing, and I say to him, " What is that noise ? " " It's the Falls," he answers, smiling. " The Falls," I exclaim ; " but we are yet a long way off, are we not ? ' " About twenty miles," he agrees. What must Dr. Livingstone's feelings have been when, after those long weary marches across a continent, he heard this constant roar of mighty waters thundering in the distance ! Upon a nearer approach he saw what anyone would think at first sight was the smoke of some gigantic fire ascending thousands of feet heavenwards, and the natives told the brave explorer, " It was the Mosi-oa-Tunya," which translated means " thunder of smoke." A splendid name it is for this giant of Nature's work ! I can now see the smoke or mist myself, and it gives me a feeling of intense excitement. I long to see more — I am impatient, and want the train to arrive. Then a great wave of gratitude comes over me that I am to be privileged to behold this World's Wonder -that I, out of the millions of people who will never in their lives enjoy this pleasure, am favoured by God and circumstances. In a short time the train stops in a sort of wood. A small tin station stands close by — and a big white wooden signboard spells : " victoria falls." VICTORIA FALLS STA'l ION. 116 CHAPTER XVII / '/'c/or/'a Falls FIVE minutes' walk under trees, and through pretty gardens, which have large whitewashed stones round the flower-beds, brought me to the Victoria Falls Hotel. After registering I passed through the hall to the verandah. A beautiful view greets you as you look down two great gorges covered with fresh trees and kept ever verdant by the ceaseless spray. Victoria Bridge, 600 feet high, with a cantilever span of 500 feet, is the loftiest bridge in the world, and in the blue distance resembles filigree work. I take a hasty breakfast, feeling I must lose no time before seeing the Falls. I set off, camera, sunshade, and notebook in hand. The managing clerk accompanies me to the end of the verandah. " Don't you think I should have a guide ? " I inquire. ' Oh, no, it's not necessary," he responds. ' The paths are well laid out, as you will see by the signboards." 1 n all the hotel advertisements one reads that the Falls are only a few minutes away. This is quite deceptive. After half an hour's walk over a rather rough road you come to Victoria Bridge. All along the approach the roar of the Falls increases its thunder ; but even so you are totally unprepared for the scene that opens before you ! Everywhere are wonderful trees, crystallized into eternal freshness by the mist. They crown and decorate well-worn pinnacles of rocks. Then you stand on \ 'ictoria Bridge. To the left and far below is the dark brown water, churning in what is called the Boiling Pot. The water rushes in, swirls, runs about in impotent anger, having been hurled over a precipice, down 400 feet, and into this maze from which there is no outlet. At last, however, it rushes under the bridge, flows with loud protest, hissing over rocks, and wends its. way through deep and narrow channels to its natural bed. The top view of the Zambesi looks as if snow were lying on the grass, and wdiite cascades pour down from its great height, spraying to some 3000 feet. "7 A Woman's Winter in Africa From the other side the scenery is enchantingly lovely. Imagine a chasm of bold forbidding rock, superfluously trimmed with green teak forests and the gnarled trunks of monster trees. Over it come tons of irresistible water falling uproariously into the profound pit, hidden by magic spray. My prevailing sensation is that of awed humility. I feel like crouching and sobbing how insignificant an atom I am amid all this appalling grandeur. The Omnipotent Being I gratefully thank for having permitted me to view this eighth Wonder of the World. 1 would like to stay alone on this spot all day, give myself to thought, and watch the fascination of that vari-coloured magnitude of water. But there is more to be seen, the sun is becoming fierce, so I go around a bend in the road — and the great Zambesi itself lies before me, a sapphire set in malachite. There are wooden benches, and fortunately many are placed on the road in spots where the prospect is particularly alluring. I take my notebook, only to realize how inefficient my description will be. What poor lifeless things words are ! No pen nor brush could ever express the gloriousness of the Falls. " Imp," my spirit of travel, for once is overawed and silent. I recall that just a hundred years have passed since the great ex- plorer was born, and wonder how Dr. Livingstone — the first white man to view the scene — felt when his eyes beheld this vision of Nature's grandeur in 1855. Were his emotions those of reverence, exultation, or gratification ? These ethereal Falls are difficult to photograph as they roll, tumbling and boiling into a titanic cauldron. How far London seems away, as I sit entranced in the heart of the Darkest Con- tinent ! I walk on for some distance, in the glorious panorama ; then I come to a signboard pointing to the Palm Grove. This path I was told to follow by some of the hotel people. I understood that near by is the boat for Livingstone Island. Down I go and am astounded to find such a way, it is the gully of a one-time stream, narrow, with loose sharp rocks. The stones rattle after me ; I constantly cut my feet, and my ankles threaten to sprain at every moment. It is a long way, and, like the road to ruin, difficult to retraverse ! Besides, I tell myself and " Imp," the ever-present, that this must be the right turning, for occasionally there are a few worn-out seats placed under the trees. 118 c OS b j> '— ri •_ t/3 o I- i_] •j < ^ jj <t feH ^S 2 U-i o O •J c z A Woman's Winter in Africa The way appears interminable as I go slipping downward, while the idea occurs to me what an awful fix one would be in if one's ankle got broken. Here one would have to lie all day, perhaps all night, until the hotel people sent out search parties. There is plenty of big game. Lions have come within a couple of miles of the hotel. I think they should repair this miserable route to the Palm Grove, or at least send a Kaffir with you, in case of accident ! There are many palms. As a tropical grove it is very beautiful, but I am too uncomfortable to appreciate its attractiveness, and VICTORIA FALLS. By kind permission of Mr. Percy Clark, F. R.G.s. too busy trying to keep my feet. It is dreadfully hot, and myriads of flies insist upon taking up quarters in my eyes. I see a scorpion sitting on a rock sunning himself and only just avoid stepping on him. There are innumerable centipedes, wormy creatures, moths, and butterflies. After I should think a mile of steep downhill struggling, the perspiration dripping from my nose and face, I espy a .hamper under a tree. It is marked " V. F. H." — -signs of life, at any rate, I think ; maybe the hotel has a boat below. ,1 am so thirsty ! If only that hamper had bottles of water 01 anything ! I open it — it is full of bottles. I take one up, deter- 120 Victoria Falls mined to smash the neck against a tree in case I can't find a cork- screw. Picture my disappointment ami dismay to find every bottle empty ! Afterwards I heard that they were the remains of a picnic a fortnight previously. A little farther on I found m\ -< II at the very bottom of the cliff, overlooking the Boiling Pot, which is horrible in its whirlpool fury, but more impressive from the bridge. 1 am just boo feet below the bridge, and as 1 look up it appears to span all heaven. There is a high black rock ; 1 climb it to rest, and a little lizard, yellow and black, possessing a pale blue tail, comes to keep me company. I see no way of being fetched by boat, as nothing could live in these whirling rapids. There is no conveyance of any kind. I philosophize that I must scramble up the narrow, broken path again, or rest here all my life. I am tired, hot, thirsty, and not knowing 1 was going for an adventure of this kind I am wearing light shoes, so my feet are bruised, blistered, and aching. A chattering begins over my head, and I look up. Horrors ! The trees are full of monkeys. There are all kinds, little and big. One hideous ape fastens his long tail around a branch, leaps to- wards me, grabbing at my veil, which hangs down from my cork helmet. I scream, and he looks astonished, blinks, and springs back to his tree. I have only my sunshade for defence. What shall I do ? There must be a hundred of them leaping about. Oh for an aeroplane to fly up to the bridge ! Shall I jump into the cool waters of the Boiling Pot and end it all ? I cannot reason with " Imp," but 1 know if I don't scramble up the cliff I shall go mad. My only thought is to get out of the place. Heat is unbearable. I begin to climb those same rocks I slid down, but find it more easy, for I have now a firm foothold, dire monkeys accompany me, chattering all the while. A little one has jumped on my back. I beat him off, since I have no intention of carrying monkeys as well as myself. I assure you it was dreadful getting over those pointed rocks. My heart seemed to be in my throat. It beat so violently that I often had to pause to recover my breath. Heat, flies, and monkeys ! But I was not doomed to lose my reason in the Palm Grove, or to rest with the latter. I plodded higher and higher, and when I was nearing the top the monkeys disappeared as quickly as they arrived. I emerged from that place of torment gasping, and sat down on the seat near the deceiving signboard. Once on top I real- 121 A Woman's Winter in Africa ized that never before in my vast amount of experience all over the world had I been quite so uncomfortable ! After a little rest I begin again, and have more than two miles to walk back to the hotel. It is nearly one o'clock, the temperature registers 115 degrees. On I plod amid the hot, sandy soil and over lava stones, which grind the leather off my shoes. I again cross the bridge — the toll being is., which they have forgotten. The low, flat roof of the hotel looks a long way off, and I thought I would never be able to reach it. I am a strong woman, but I wonder if THE BOILING POT. the same^" circumstances happened to a semi-invalid or an elderly lady what would be the result. When I eventually arrived, feeling more dead than alive, I found I had climbed and slid 1200 feet — no light task to accom- plish at noon during the hot season in the heart of Africa ! The hotel people were astonished to hear of my adventure. Men folk agreed they would not even have attempted such an arduous task. 1 went to the clerk in the office and asked him what grudge he had against me ; and also told him my opinion of the hotel con- veniences and arrangements. Then lunch, which I felt I deserved. I was terribly tired, and getting stiffer each moment, for I am a novice at cliff climbing. By three o'clock I started again ; this time, however, having a guide and a rickshaw. 122 CHAPTER XVIII Zambesi and Rain Forest MY next jaunt is in a pony rickshaw led by a black boy. A guide accompanies me. Victoria Falls Hotel has an inadequate supply of conveyances — only one guide, two rickshaws, and several old carts. One can imagine with twenty-five guests, each clamouring for attendants, the disadvantages of sight-seeing. If only the hotel management, after enticing you by splendid ad- vertisements to cross Africa, would deign to provide better com- fort for their guests, all would be well. There is no more beautiful scenery in the world. The property belongs to the Chartered Company. This hotel is old-fashioned, and should be rebuilt. However, it has the monopoly, and refuses to modernize, nor will it allow its land to be sold. An enterprising American desired to purchase real estate and erect an enormous hotel costing a million dollars ; but his schemes were foiled. Victoria Falls Hotel consists of a collection of primi- tive corrugated - iron houses, bungalow style, walls inside being of rough boards. There are a verandah and annexes which rest on wooden piles, but the whole edifice shakes as you walk. What they need is a fine three-storeyed building facing the falls, where the view would prove magnificent. I presume the authori- ties' philosophy is, "We have the eighth wonder of the world. If you want to see it you must pay our prices and put up with accommodation offered." I paid 2is. a day pension. It was pleasant jolting along in the rickshaw, scenery becoming so lovely that I nearly forgot the pain of my blistered feet. The Zambesi resembled a turquoise chain. It is said to be extremely dangerous for boatmen who are not familiar with its treacherous currents. Several unfortunates have been ruthlessly swept over its .great cascade. A charming canoe like one used in Canada was waiting. I settled myself comfortably ; the afternoon was gorgeous, while the beauty of my surroundings gave me a sensation of unreality. Softly and quickly I was paddled across to Living- 123 A Woman's Winter in Africa stone Island, and here I beheld the famous tree on whose trunk that great and good man carved" 1). L." Some people discredit this. But in Dr. Livingstone's book he states it was the only time in his life he was guilty of vanity and cut his initials on a tree. From here I went to Danger Point. One sits on a huge over- hanging rock clinging to a friendly tree. The distance looking down is appalling. Picture the eddying surface of the Zambesi betrayed and falling 600 feet into innumerable cascades of pearl, diamond, and topaz, coloured by sunbeams, chas- ing each other over the im- petuous falls. Can you see this enchanting fairy spectacle of mist, rising three thousand feet ? You look down the sides of brown rocks trimmed with a hundred rainbows. The iri- descent sparkling shades with their snowlike hurricanes quite bewilder one — the titanic force of the falls makes you feel utterly insignificant. Almost instantly dull, black clouds cover the sky and Nature indulges in a tempest. The thunder of the skies and that of the falls fight a royal battle. Rain comes down in sheets — and it certainly is a watery place. In a few minutes I am as wet as if I sat under a cataract. There is no shelter. In a short time the sun came out victorious, but these tropical showers give no warning. I stood up, and began wringing out my heavily sodden skirt. Then I hastened to the canoe and proceeded to the hotel for dry raiment. Upon arrival I immediately looked to see if my letters of credit had been wet through and my signature blurred — I invariably wear an under-pocket containing money and these letters. For the benefit of travellers may I suggest it would be an improvement if these pockets were lined with rubber ? [24 VIEW OF r.RIPGE AND VALLEY. Zambesi and Rain Forest Fortunately for me a roll of notes guarded the precious letters, they were a pulp, but could be easily dried. My aching feel warned me that I ha<l had sufficient adventure for one day, so I retired early. It was very amusing next morning, since all the guests had gone through the same experience as myself. Their clothes and boots were taken by the Kaffirs to be dried. There are no women servants at this hotel, while the niggers are the mosl stupid I have met. They must have just left the bush, since they cannot speak even a little pidgin-English. Between seven and eighl VICTORIA FALLS HOTEL. a dozen heads bobbed out of doors, crying, " Boy, I want my clothes — my boots." The bedroom 1 occupied could not be styled pretty or comfort- able. The iron bedstead held a thin mattress which reminded me of a sandwich. Every time one turned the wires groaned dreadfully, and two of the hardest and smallest pillows com- pleted the discomfort. A precocious green window-blind would not go up or remain down, but chose its own level, while the matchboard walls were a sickly green. An early Victorian mirror with a side broken enabled you to dress, and in the corner a wooden triangle, supporting a blue rag, served as a wardrobe. The dining-room was commodious and food quite all right. 1 began sight-seeing early, and visited the famous Rain Forest. Everyone tells you to wear thick boots and an old gown, because this interesting place is so well named. 125 A Woman's Winter in Africa Tropical foliage and charming views are everywhere. Gnarled trunks of forest monarchs are draped with pink and white con- volvuli, while giant lianes rope dead and living branches with wonderful effect. The traditional rain appeared in a soft fine mist, lenient in comparison with yesterday's hurricane. Yellow-green moss like velvet clings to grey grim rocks, and tiny streams murmur a continuous lullaby. Imp " was much impressed with the dark solemn splendours of the Rain Forest. I had a look at the beautiful Rainbow Falls and the Devil's Cascade, whose waters formed a steaming cauldron. This gloomy abyss, and the fearful majesty of the scenery, were GARDENS, VICTORIA FALLS HOT L. almost supernatural. The Zambesi River is about a mile and a half wide above the Falls, its length 1200 miles, the greatest volume of water pouring over the various gorges in April. Comparing Niagara Falls with those of Victoria, I say there is no comparison. Although belonging to the same family, each is a perfect beauty. Victoria Falls are much greater, because there are several distinct cataracts descending into majestic gorges. On the other hand, Niagara discloses her beauteousness at once. I shall never forget my first view of this silver horseshoe, mere tumbling water framed by prismatic rainbows, nor my wonder over its beaming in the moonlight. Taking everything into consideration, Victoria Falls are the most imposing in the world. 126 Zambesi and Rain Forest An American tourist taken to see t hem, had on the previous even- ing boasted considerably about Niagara ; standing for several minutes dumbfounded, he exclaimed, " Sell Niagara ! " Imp fell inclined to agree with him. Mr. Percy Clark, f.r.g.s., who lives in "The Hut " close to the hotel, can be relied upon for genuine native curios. I le is a splendid photographer, as his numerous pictures testify. Mos1 kindly he assisted me in developing my snapshots, also giving me permission to use two of his best views of the Falls. Another interesting personage living near by is a trapper of big game. One can buy furs and lion-skin bags at his hut, which he tells me is the same sort of shelter as Dr. Livingstone used. 127 CHAPTER XIX Bulawayo ON the whole Rhodesian railways are comfortable, service and food both being commendable. The line extends to Broken Hill in the north, where one can change at Sakania and connect through to Elizabethville in the Belgian Congo. My return by train to Bulawayo was not interesting. We stopped some time at the Wankie coal mines, seventy miles- due south. It appeared a busy place, many miners coming into the restaurant car for drinks. I am told that on account of the drought throughout Rhodesia there is some apprehension that the Wankie water supply may be exhausted, then these mines would close. One regrets the vast waste of water at the Falls. Oh, if it could only be harnessed by engineers and irrigate the parched country. In the morning I arrived at the Grand Hotel — Bulawayo, the translation of this Zulu name meaning " killing kraal." Shortly after breakfast I took a motor-car to the Khami Ruins, fourteen miles distant. Leaving my car I have a long, rough way to traverse. I cross a dry river bed, with sharp, projecting stones, and continue to follow my instructions. The sun is intensely hot, while paths to the Ruin laid out in iqio have not since been cleared. Consequently weeds obliterate most of them. I could discover only one well-worn signboard, but eventually arrived at this much-overrated spot. There was an extensive high parapet of thin, narrow bricks, and heaps of stones. The Ruin itself in ancient days may have been a walled city, the sides being curved. It occupies an immense site, with debris piled to such an elevation that I felt no desire to climb its uninteresting ridge. Why on earth had I taken all this trouble to come ? Everyone has his own version as to who built and inhabited the Khami Ruin, the list running as follows. Since I know nothing about its accuracy, I leave you to take your choice : Asiatics from the Persian Gulf, Phoenicians, Sabseans, Bantu or Bushmen. The place is now in possession of the largest lizards I ever saw, 128 Bulawayo resembling baby crocodiles. I imagine i1 is their markel day, since they have assembled in hordes and are frantically busy. I sauntei on trying to find Bushmen paintings, but only encounter more bricks. Being almost noon, with a grilling sun beating down and no shade, I decide to make for the car. After walking ten or fifteen minutes I am suddenly aware that this is not the right way, the signboard and a certain tree I remarked being missing. What a nuisance, and in such a lonely place with heat absolutely baking ! They have a queer way in Rhodesia of sending yon out with a gay sentence, " Oh, it's just over there," and you walk for miles KARMI RUINS, NKAR BULAWAYO. to that phantom " over there. ' It is said that Cecil Rhodes would never be left alone on the veldt, as he had a horror of being lost. Odd he should choose his last resting-place in the very heart of such grim and mighty loneliness. 1 am not at all frightened. 1 can easily retrace my way to the first Ruin, where I can sit on bricks with the lizards until the chauffeur comes to find me, since he dare not return to the hotel alone. After a time a distant hallooing sounded, and responding to it, I was found and safely conducted back to the car. Motoring proved pleasant after walking in the sun, although the road is exceedingly rough and must play havoc with tyres. At luncheon I was introduced to an American who had seen most of the globe. I 129 A Woman's Winter in Africa He leaves for the great Zimbabwe Ruins, which I hear are marvel- lous. The journey, however, is most trying by train, including miles by coach afterwards. I yearn to behold these wonderful relics of the ancients, but my thoughts travelling to the long route before me, I realize time will not permit me to see everything of importance in /Vfrica. Distances here are enormous compared with those of my own country. By the time I reach Beira, where I embark, nearly 2000 miles will have been covered. " Imp " says : " Buy photographs of the Khami Ruin — it looks much more impressive in shop windows." But my advice to pro- spective travellers is, " Don't bother to see it." The streets of Bulawayo are named after the men who originated the Chartered Company — -Rhodes, Fife, Abercorn, Shelborne, Grey, and others. The first thing which impresses you in the Main Street is the huge bronze statue of Cecil Rhodes. It is mounted on red granite, brought from "World's Mew." This commemorative tribute was executed by Mr. John Tweed. The pioneer of continents is standing — his hands clasped behind his back — wearing a lounge suit, and it is a well-known fact that he always clung to suits he had grown to like, detesting what is called " smart attire." Bareheaded, he is gazing forever down the principal street of the town he created. The monument is placed opposite the Bulawayo Club, at the junction of Main Street and Eighth Avenue. A short distance beyond rises another mark of gratitude from the country. This is a granite pedestal, some thirty feet in height. On the top is placed a Gatling gun captured from the Matabele, who had treacherously smuggled it into the country. One side is inscribed with the following : "To the memory of those 259 pioneers of civilization who lost their lives during the Matabele Rebellion, A.D. 1896." Below, on white marble tablets, one reads of those who fell for love of patriotism. Two opposite sides record these facts in Dutch. After luncheon at the most comfortable hotel I have stayed at in Africa, namely, the Grand, I again take a motor for the Matoppo Hills. Weather is perfect — the air exhilarating. No one should miss seeing " World's View," and no one could fail to appreciate the weird, silent grandeur of this mountain 130 < X o w u A Woman's Winter in Africa stronghold that treasures the remains of the renowned founder of Rhodesia. On Saturdays and Sundays one can reach the Matoppos by rail, but somehow chance never allows me to participate in cheap excursions, so I was obliged to motor out. The cost was £4 10s., which I in no way regretted. If I lived in these parts I should often spend hours in this wonderful spot. The road is good, and we spin along most enjoyably. When you arrive at your destination, an enormous rock confronts you, and at its base you pause to read this notice before beginning the ascent : ' The public are most earnestly requested not to leave empty bottles, straw, envelopes, tins, or paper on this estate, but either to burn or take them back to town, so that visitors who pass here on their way to World's View may carry away a favourable impression and feel that Mr. Rhodes' wishes in this respect continue to be observed." Kopje after kopje rises on every side, something like 300 feet in height. Huge, queer-shaped stones, tons in weight, with fantastic green shrubs, mark the way to the summit. I climb up the massive hill opposite. A wild cat emerges from its rocky shelter, and I welcome it as an omen of good luck. Fascinated, I watch the sun shining on its black coat, the animal silhouetted against a golden wall. The lonely desolation of the scene is indescribable, deepest silence reigning for miles around. One goes on steadily climbing for twenty minutes or more. View after view entrances the eye. In solemn grandeur an amphi- theatre of innumerable purple mountains circle the horizon, the sunset tangles its rays into rock-set glories of splendid colouring. The black cat still maintains its position. Has it come into this solitude for mere admiration, or only in search of a supper ? In front of the mountains are smaller and countless hills of rock which remind me of the Roman Colosseum. Everyone says that Cecil Rhodes' funeral was wonderful. The population of South Africa attended in thousands, each one desiring to pay last respects. All vehicles and modes of conveyance were called into action. People who could not do better rode upon oxen. The multitude followed the gun-carriage and its escort over the marked path that I am now walking. Everywhere you look granite confronts you, and his grave is sunk into a species of plateau. Eight great boulders, each approximately seventy tons in weight, stand — tireless sentinels — to guard the dead. A card 132 Bulawa) o neatly framed in black reads: 'This is consecrated ground." Suddenly you arrive upon a flal stage. Before v<>u a granite slab, raised perhaps a fool from the rock, covered by a simple bronze tablet , records plainly, without scroll or emblem : " Here lie the remains of Cecil John Rhodes." No date of birth or death, lake Dr. David Livingstone, he soughl no title. He rests in a spot chosen by himself, surrounded by the rocks and mountains he loved so well. Gone, passed through the final door, sleep- ing in God's eternal peace, alone with the granite boulders so like the strong firmness of his character. " World's View " is well named. 1 place my hand in reverence on the bronze tablet, offering a silent prayer. The stillness, the golden beams of the sun going to rest, the lonely solitude of this great pioneer, print a picture utterly ineffaceable on my memory. A few minutes' walk to- wards the south-east brings you to a grey stone memorial in Grecian style upon the base of which is written : RHODES' GRAVE. " TO BRAVE MEN." " To the enduring memory of Allan Wilson and his men whose names are hereon inscribed and who fell in fight against the Matabele on the Shangani River, Dec. 4th, 1S93. There was no survivor." On each side of the monument, depicted in bronze and splen- didly executed, are scenes of battle and Major Allan Wilson's last stand. This superb work was also achieved by Mr. John Tweed, thirty workmen being sent out from Aberdeen to adjust the stone. T •-> n A Woman's Winter in Africa Major Wilson and his men were at first buried at Victoria, but afterwards brought here and interred with solemn ceremony. Cecil Rhodes chose the site. An interesting painting, showing the hero still armed and fighting in the centre of dying comrades and horses, should be seen, it is in the Bulawayo Public Library. This part of the country, covered as it is with rocks, made an ideal battlefield for the Matabele. Curiously enough, at Intumbane, fourteen miles away, the Chief of the Matabele, M'Zilekazi, is buried in the fissure of a boulder. He was a Bantu ruler, causing much trouble in the Transvaal and Bechuana- land. He died in 1868. On my return journey I motor through the Rhodes estate, comprising some eighteen thou- sand acres. The man who ' thought in empires " clearly loved this retreat. He estab- lished wonderful Botanical and Zoological Gardens. It is said he experimented by planting nearly every known tree, and the estate is now reaping the benefit of its founder's thought- fulness. Upon one of the kopjes stones are heaped by natural forces, forming a sort of throne which the natives have chris- One of the rocks bears a re- MAXIM MONUMENT. tened " Cecil Rhodes' Chair." markable resemblance to his features. The next place of interest on our return run is the Matoppos Dam and Hotel, both built by Mr. Rhodes. The dam is capable of holding nine hundred million gallons of water, and when full forms a lake three-quarters of a mile in length. The Matoppos Dam Hotel, in bungalow fashion with verandahs, affords a pleasant stopping-place. My " Imp " and I counsel all travellers not to miss " World's lew. 54 Bulawayo In the evening I dined a1 the hotel, and enjoyed the besl dinner I had partaken of for some time. The dining-room is spacious and Lofty, carpeted in dark green felt, with a wainscoting of the same colouring, relieved l>\ < ream shaded walls, all of which give an air of coolness. Electric lights are covered with rose-pink shades, and long casemenl curtains give a pleasing effect. The furnishings of the spacious lounge outside are in the same tones, while comfortable wicker arm- chairs and plenty of newspapers make it an enjoyable place in which to loiter. Rumour says this is the best hotel in Rhodesia, and I who have sampled most of them certainly agree. The waiters remind me of those at the Taj Mahal Hotel at Bombay, light-complexioned Indians of good caste, serving an excellent dinner and doing it well. Here is the menu : Creme d'Asperges. Boiled Scotch Salmon. Sauce Mousseline. Venison a la Chasseur. Brains a lTtalienne. Roast haunch of mutton. Red-currant jelly. Pheasant and bread sauce. Fried and boiled potatoes. Green peas. Marrow. Smoked sardines. Fruit. Coffee. All the items of this dinner were of the best quality. Prices of everything in Bulawayo are exceptionally high. Most food-stuff is imported from Europe, Cape Town and Durban supplying the fruit and vegetables. Exorbitant wages are demanded by Kaffir boj^s. For example — washing costs 4s. 6d. a dozen, one shilling is charged for laundering a white shirt ; petrol 3s. 3d. a gallon ; whisky at the grocer's 7s. a bottle and at the hotel 10s. Brandy runs to 15s. ; while a good brand of champagne cannot be got for less than 25s. a bottle. An ordinary lemon squash means a two shilling piece. At the Grand Hotel 15s. 6d. to 25s. per day is the inclusive charge, Mr. T. McMurray being the able lessee and manager of this up-to-date establishment. A 135 A Woman's Winter in Africa new hotel is in course of construction ; it will be called " The Carlton." I had the pleasure of meeting the Bishop of Mashonaland, one of the best loved men in Rhodesia. His diocese extends over thousands of miles, and across it he is continually travelling to deliver his message of peace and goodwill. He bears an extra- ordinary resemblance to the Bishop of London. We began talking of fever, I asking if it was prevalent here. The Bishop replied with a wise shake of his head : "It is true we have some fever, but the worst comes out from Scotland in bottles." I came to the conclusion in driving about Bulawayo that the system of hygiene was well organized. The streets are enormously wide, averaging from ninety to one hundred and twenty feet, giving the idea of broad, red ribbons laid across the town. I visited the handsome Drill Hall, presented by that generous benefactor Cecil Rhodes. Over its entrance was inscribed " South Rhodesian Volunteers." The residential quarter contained many hne houses, mostly in bungalow fashion. A few possess two storeys, and are surrounded by gardens of shrubs and flowers. These homes are very English in style, tennis courts and croquet lawns testifying to our carrying sports with us all over the world. Especially noticeable were the residences of Mr. Walter Currie, Judge Vincent, Mr. Myburd, chief magistrate, and Mr. Ackerman, mining engineer of the Chartered Company. The Race Track with its picturesque stand looked well kept, a meeting taking place about every two months. Adjoining it is the Polo Club, which has forty members. The Public Library was opened by H.R.H. the Duke of Connaught in 1910. It contains seven thousand volumes, and was erected at a cost of £25,000. I thought it a plain, ugly building. No one should fail to visit the Museum, for its small collection proved to be exceedingly well arranged and most inter- esting, the animal life of the country being magnificently represented. It also possesses some fine minerals. In the business quarter, handsome stone buildings equal ours in London. It is pleasant to see the camaraderie that exists. Everybody appears to know everybody else. There are many excellent shops, and some of these would not disgrace Bond Street. For example, Basch and Co., showing jewellery, McCollough's women's clothing, Beesley's men's attire • and there are several well-stocked pharmacies and good book shops_ 136 I Ui law a\ o Dust storms are a frequent nuisance. One can always meet little whirlpools of sand circling skywards. There has been very little rain in Rhodesia this year, and 1912 also lacked sufhcienl water. The proprietor of the hotel told me that if this drought continued it would mean the ruin of the entire country, the dearth of wat< 1 causing cattle and crops to perish ; mining interests would be at a standstill, and capital exhausted. For the sake of the colonists, let us hope the elements will be more merciful. So far only three inches of rain have fallen, while the average should be something like thirty-two. They tell me that within the last month 40,000 head of cattle have died. The farmers have no fodder, cannot afford to buy it, and with the drought sickness has set in, greatly depleting their live stock. Water is so scarce in Bulawayo that the authorities turn it off during the afternoon. I ordered a bath at night, but was told by a polite chambermaid it was impossible. In the morning they allowed me one bucket and a half of water, which was absolutely inadequate. A very pretty drive is to Government House, two and three- quarter miles from town. The fine avenue, 130 feet wide, is bordered on each side by a splendid variety of trees, reminding one of the Long Walk at Windsor. Government House, the former residence of Cecil Rhodes, constitutes a delightful, rambling white bungalow built in quaint Dutch style. This is at present occupied by the Hon. Rochfort Maguire, who is Vice-President of the British South African Company. Sunday afternoon — and an At Home is in progress ! The arrival of guests is distinctly interesting. All sorts of conveyances are represented, from the primitive Dutch cart to the ultra-smart motor, both men and women being fine . specimens of ideal colonials. In a species of small garden at one side I was shown the " indaba tree." Under this Lobengula used to assemble his chiefs and hold important palavers. Here also his old kraal existed. From this site one can see the mountain which witnessed his vengeance, looking with its flat top like a sacrificial altar. I should describe Lobengula as " a merry old soul, and a wicked old soul was he." As I pass through his late capital, stories I have been told of his wars and atrocities crowd my mind. There are very many of these. Lobengula was a younger son of that powerful Zulu chief Dingaan, and certainly followed in the footsteps of his barbaric 137 A Woman's Winter in Africa parent. He possessed hundreds of wives, and thought nothing of invading lesser chiefs' domains in quest of attractive females. Having selected the most desirable for himself, the others were handed on to the big men of his tribe. However, he always obtained substantial payment for these favours in cattle or gold. Many people still think he buried great treasure in some near-by spot, but up to now it remains undiscovered. Here are instances of his appalling cruelty : To a mountain named Maxim Hill or Thabar's Induna he sent those who incurred his displeasure, to be brutally assegaied. Even his wives did not escape this fate. At one time, having doubts as to their faithfulness, he promptly despatched all the suspects to and on this mountain. They were said to number three hundred, a rather large harem to keep under one husband's eye. These things must sound strange to stay- at-homes in England. Only those who have seen the place can realize how such scenes mark with sanguinary milestones the past history of the country. • 38 CHAPTER XX Salisbury COMING from Bulawayo, one halts at Gatooma, surrounded by huge fields of mealies and wooded hills of brilliant verdure. It is the centre of some of the richest gold mines. Although a baby in years, the town has good streets and shops presenting a flourishing appearance. Everyone talks of the famous Cam and Motor mine here, predicting a marvellous future for it. Already they have something like one and a half million tons of quartz in sight, which is estimated to be worth nearly £3,000,000 sterling. It was wonderful passing through this Eldorado, which Nature has doubly blessed, clothing it with fertile fields, and hiding marvellous treasure underground. On my return to this beautiful town I was met by friends who were keenly anxious to show me the capital of Rhodesia, which is certainly laid out with great taste. The 3500 English people who have established charming homes here have the advantage over the Matabele people, because in Mashonaland they are blessed with a greater water supply. Consequently there was a freshness about Salisbury which Bulawayo lacked. Government House wore an attractive air, being one-storeyed, and well screened by attractive gardens. However, the most beautiful private house belongs to the Weil family. It is a Dutch mansion. Many skins on the stoep bore testimony to hunting prowess, and an old English flower-garden sounded a perfumed echo from home, while specimens of old Dutch furniture made one covetous. The climate appears de- lightful, but fever stalks at will, people having to be very cautious. As yet Salisbury has no water laid on to the houses, but this is being done ; pipes at present lie along the streets, while electric light is also being installed. The land is very fertile, everything planted producing good results. Many more farmers are greatly 139 A Woman's Winter in Africa needed, but they must possess a certain amount of money. This is not a country for the ordinary immigrant, as white men cannot perform menial labour. To get a farm, put up buildings, and stock it with cattle is expensive. Therefore a man coming to take up land should have at least £1500. I was talking to a prominent citizen who knows the country well, and he explained the situation, adding that the right sort of farmer could, with a small capital, in the course of five years become a wealthy man. He suggested that it would be a good thing if the Government gave assistance in the beginning to encourage settlers. The country cannot progress unless more farms are established. At present, with all the rich land, it does not raise sufficient food for the population. Eggs, chickens, fruit, butter, and many other commodities which should be home grown have to be imported into a colony which should export. The tobacco industry has made rapid strides in the past year. It is estimated that the season's harvest of 1913 will equal a million and a quarter pounds. The crops of Virginia and Turkish leaf form excellent brands of cigarettes. I noticed many men carrying small white bags, and was informed they held Rhodesian tobacco, which they preferred to any other. Colonists, please note that 100,000,000 acres yet await the hand of the pioneer. Wages are generous — miners receive from £60 to £80 a month. Even Kaffir boys who do housework receive as much as our high-class servants in England. Salisbury possesses many fine buildings, notably the Victoria Memorial Library, costing £10,000 ; the Standard Bank of South Africa, and the offices of the London and Rhodesia Mining and Land Company. Also a large seated statue of Mr. Alfred Beit, whose generosity to the town has been greatly appreciated. Unlike many new capitals, there are several hotels to choose from. The Queen's is supposed to be the best, the Avenue, well spoken of, the Commercial, the Langham, and several smaller hotels. A good room at any of these will cost 15s. and upwards per day. Rhodesia is by no means a cheap country to travel in ; one has patiently to put up with discomforts and pay the price. Here again the tennis courts, said to be the best in South Africa, form a prominent feature, and the race meetings are popular. The Government give £5 to anyone bringing in a lion skin. They wish to annihilate these ravenous beasts ; big game is 140 < 2 A Woman's Winter in Africa plentiful all over the country. The Salisbury Club is most charmingly situated, and conducted on the same lines as our best clubs at home. The usual description fits it — white bungalow formation with cool green awnings and a pretty garden. I was fortunate enough to be the guest of honour at dinner in this exclusive rendezvous ; as in most men's clubs, women are not admitted except on special occasions. However, at this abode one private room is set aside for entertaining lady friends. Here a very jolly small party assembled, a splendid dinner being served. Roses decorated the table, the flowers duplicating the white rose of York and the red of Lancaster. The meal was perfect in service and selection, from the commencement with delicious iced melon to the finish with strawberries and cream — -an evening to be remem- bered. I must not forget that every honour was showered upon me ; even Tiger, the mascot, condescended to eat turkey from my hand. Tiger is a beautifully marked tortoiseshell cat who has ruled here for thirteen years. In saying good-bye to progressive Salisbury, I part with truly lavish hospitality and genial-hearted friends. 14: CHAPTER XXI Lo uren co i Marq ucs THIS is the first port where we were alongside a wharf on the whole East Coast. Having entered the Bay between Mahone and Reuben Points one discovers ample accommodation for seven large ships, the dock being 901 metres in length. A gigantic iron shed is already engaged in swallowing a monstrous cargo oi iron rails, machinery, huge rounds of cable, barbed wire, and hundn ds of other requirements necessary to construct a railway in a new country. Atmosphere is steamingly hot. Motor-cars and rickshaws stand side by side — ancient and modern. Parsees clothed in white hold sunshades over their heads as they sort out their possessions. The Union Castle and Deutsche Ost-Afrika Linie offices form prominent landmarks, and far beyond, the residential quarters peep out from amid green coverings. Across the Bay, about a mile away, the land has also many signs of commercial activity. Lourenco Marques is the natural port for the Transvaal, as Beira is for Rhodesia. The former is not only the finest harbour on the coast, but also one of the richest and most progressive possessions of Portuguese East Africa. Millions of pounds' worth of merchandise pass through here annually. Both these ports should belong to Britain, as we have a gigantic amount of capital invested in the interior. I believe we have the first right of pre-emption since the McMahon award of 1875 to purchase Delagoa Bay in case Portugal should wish to dispose of it. In time to come, when the exchequer of Portugal requires replenishing either for future revolutions or other enterprises, we may be able to annex these two coveted toll-gates to our colonies whose outflow of wealth is fast enriching the Portuguese. I go ashore and take a rickshaw. There are plenty of ways of getting about. In the Public Square twelve or fourteen motor-cars ply for hire, the tariff being 1000 reis a course. Not expensive. Well-turned-out carriages are easily obtainable, and clean electric '43 A Woman's Winter in Africa ^ trams conduct you all over the town, spread out on spacious lines. A pleasant run is to the local beauty spot, Reuben Point, the fares amounting to 2s. My rickshaw boy sped through a narrow street in which were many bars, and where small shops eked out a miserable existence. He dumped me down en face of a rather new-looking monument of grey stone. A bearded bronze figure of a patriot faces the Bay, and on the base one reads : " A ANTONIO ENNES, A PROVINCIA DE MOZAMBIQUE, FOR SUBSCRIPICA PUBLICO. 8 DE SETEMBRO DE IQIO." This testimonial to the benefactor was simple yet elegant in design, but the garniture of the Plaza surrounding the memorial looked dry and brown. A few shrubs had been planted, but these wore an unhealthy look, and the general air of lassitude about the place was in sharp contrast to the shrieking business of the docks as they panted and groaned at the command of steam derricks, modulated by the sing-song of native labourers. At Lourenro Marques the Portuguese have imported the same decorative pave- ments as at their capital. Mosaics of black and white stones in a waving pattern, others in clover-leaf design, remind one of the various squares of Lisbon, or Lisboa, as they spell it. I walk past open cafes, invitingly clean, and find myself in the main street. Shops, although small, show a practical selection of the necessities of the country, while one — Robinson's, purveyor for ladies — rather blatantly announces, itself "The centre of fashion." I made a few purchases, finding the tradespeople most polite and speaking fair English. Prices do not rule as high as in Rhodesia, but counting up these millions of reis is a nuisance ; about seven thousand being the equivalent to £i in English money. Streets, while not being devoid of interest, were not unique. A tram passed at the moment. I boarded it, not knowing in the least its destination. 1 thought it did nut matter, as I should understand better the position of the town. This tram ran uphill through very poor quarters. Small houses, built of tin, painted red, have windows and eloors wide 144 Lourcnco Marques open, which show meagre furnishing inside, consisting mainly of wooden tables and wicker chairs. After whirling around corners the tram stopped abruptly at its terminus, the fronl of a larg< cemetery. The officious conductor came, and with elaborate gestures indicated I should descend. This 1 steadfastly refused to do and clung to my seat, not wishing to pay calls in the early morning even to people always " at home." Having had an invitation to drive in the afternoon and be shown the entire town by a Portuguese officer, 1 retraced my steps to that comfortable marine hotel, s.s. General. At four 1 again started, this time in a smart victoria and pair, with my host to explain things. We drove along the fam- ous Avenue Francisco Costa, past comfort- able-looking houses, flowering shrubs, and trees. This promen- ade on a height con- veys one seven miles, the prospect of which lies like a switch-back before one's eyes. The European pop- ulation comprises about 5000, with double that number of natives. Some time ago Lourenco Marques was considered one of the most fever- stricken holes on the coast, but the draining and filling up of swamps have changed this ; malarial fever is rapidly vanishing. At Reuben Point a new hospital has been built, finished only last year. The wards have a splendid outlook, being ever cooled by the ocean breezes. They are equipped with every modern improvement. Various quarters for Europeans and natives will house 600 ; and there is accommodation for the rich who desire a suite de luxe ; also for those who exist upon charity. At the Hotel Cardozo, on the Point, one finds every convenience, also a charming garden with beautiful views and an excellent K 145 W KOVS. A Woman's Winter in Africa cuisine from 12s. 6d. per day pension. Other hotels are the Central, the Grand International, and Savoy. One unique possession of this progressive place is that of a Chinese Temple with a priest residing on the premises who con- ducts its services. The public buildings, railway station, post and telegraph offices, rank with the best in South Africa. Land is very valuable, many speculators having acquired plots and holding out for big prices. There is also a good supply of water. The town has electric light. We next drove to Polana Beach. During the season many people from the Transvaal pass their holidays at this beautiful place. The road is macadamized, but shows wide belts of bright red earth, which colour is peculiar to Africa. The white-flecked breakers form an unforgettable picture. Polana Beach is as spick- and-span as our own seaside resorts. There is a large enclosure for swimmers, absolutely shark-proof, well furnished with diving boards, rafts, and all safeguards. Many of its patrons are now enjoying the waves in the afternoon sunlight. There is a cafe, while a large hotel will soon be built on the beach, and should prove a paying venture at this beautiful retreat. On the way back through the best residential quarter, one remarks the large white house of the British Consul, and the extensive premises of the headquarters of the Government of Portuguese East Africa. Here the Governor dispenses generous hospitality. Of sport there is no limit. The tennis court, situated in the Public Gardens, forms a popular rendezvous for afternoon tea and chat. Obviously Lourenco Marques has a great future before it. DON'TS BY " IMP" Don't miss the beach — but it's not at all necessary to visit the cemetery. 146 CHAPTER XXII Durban A 1 seven in the morning I hear a rap at my cabin door. " Please l\ appear before the immigration officer, " says the steward. Being an old traveller, accustomed to urgent summonses by health and port guardians, and remembering Panama, where at 5 a.m. one is called, I have thought out a hasty costume to be donned on all such trying occasions. A skirt, a long coat, and a motor scarf to ' wrap round one's head make quite a respectable combination. At Durban the large official sheet, which you have previously filled up, should leave no private secrets of your life undiscovered ; but that is not sufficient, it is requisite to inspect one with official eyes, so to speak. After being passed by the urbane officer I retire to make a complete toilet, and when I appear at breakfast find all ports are closed, the atmosphere decidedly stuffy, deck awnings down, and everyone in a flutter to get ashore. We are veritably surrounded by floating islands of coal ; and, considering the coaling appliances have the capacity of loading 400 tons an hour at this wharf, conditions can be imagined. The first thing that struck me upon landing was the toggery of the Zulu rickshaw boys, who stand expectantly waiting a fare. Surely they have attended a fancy dress ball, I thought, and have forgotten to change. Their costumes are grotesquely barbaric beyond all description. There are perhaps a dozen of them standing about, but to my unaccustomed eye their adornments are beyond words. The boy I selected had bare feet, on which, and up nearly to the knees, was painted in whitewash a lacelike stocking with embroidery at the top, and boots. I am not sure that this method of drawing imaginary stockings on bare legs is not more practical than our own. It is certainly cooler, and saves laundry bills, also the wear and tear of fine hosiery ! He wore short trousers fluttering with red ribbons, and bits of embroidery harmoniously matched a betrimmed shirt. On his head my warrior poised a pair of immense horns, painted bright red, and H7 A Woman's Winter in Africa from them, an aureole, sprang a shower of stiff porcupine quills, descending down his back — a cornucopia of plenty holding an avalanche of coloured feathers. Across his shoulders was slung a variety of fur tails. If only this costume had appeared at one of the recent Albert Hall balls what a furore it would have created ! Never have I seen in any part of the world savages more wonder- fully arrayed than these Zulus, each one dressed to suit his own individual taste. The bead necklaces and plaited wire bracelets, anklets, and fallals which they put on, notwithstanding the heat and their fatigu- ing labour in hauling one about, strike the traveller as extraor- dinary, and one can picture the droll effect as several run in pro- cession down the main streets. When I arrived at the Marine Hotel the porter said I was to give the burly fineried one sixpence. I gave him ninepence, where- upon he howled for more, and had to be shown into the street with a threatened kick. I felt rather sorry for him, and pre- sume he thought his elaborate get-up entitled him to an extra fare. Out here the white woman must be stern and keep natives in their place — there is trouble enough with the blacks all over Africa. The thought occurred to me that the history of France would in all probability have been changed had not the fierce Zulus attacked and killed the Prince Imperial in this very land. 148 RICKSHAW BUY: AT DC KUAN. I )urban The Murine Hotel, which they tell you is the besl oul of a numerous list, has a splendid situation on the Esplanade, over- looking the Bay,which ensures a breeze at all hours. It was buill during the Boer War, ami has l.een the scene of many important political discussions. It has housed the most celebrated personages of recent times. Among its distinguished visitors have been H.R.H. the Duke of Connaught and family, the ill-fated Crown Prince of Portugal, the Right Honourable Joseph Chamberlain, Lord Selborne, General Botha, Christian de Wet, and others who have made history. The hotel is most comfortable in every way — spacious rooms, many of which are encircled by deep stone balconies, from which a superb view of the bay is obtained. The attendance and food are distinctly good, and altogether it forms an ideal place for a long sojourn. Prices range from 15s. 6d. per day upward. Durban has a large choice of hotels and boarding-houses, which should suit the purse and taste of all. 'The Royal, which is considered excellent, is in Smith Street, facing the Square, the Town Hall, and Post Office. This hotel has a grill-room and restaurant for non-residents. The Ocean View, situated high in gardens on the Musgrave Road, has an air of quietness which many people appreciate ; and the prices here are from 12s. 6d. Then there are the Hotel Edward on the shore, Fern Villa, Beach Hotel, and many others. Durban itself is a model town, and needs no praise. To see it is sufficient to content one. The following elaborate phrases have been used to glorify its charms, and I think I cannot do better than give them to you, and you can take your choice : " Garden City of the South," " Delightful Durban," " Play- ground of the Sub-continent," " Pearl of the Indian Ocean," ' Queen of South African Resorts," and " The Brighton of South Africa." One and all are of the opinion that Durban is certainly beautiful, with its deep bay, upon which the sails of small yachts like white birds flit in the sunshine ; and as a suitable background its high surrounding Bluffs of emerald, interlaced with light and shadow, form a setting of changing colour, a worthy frame to the gem itself. Across the way is Salisbury Island, upon which the Government is endeavouring to establish a depot for the Naval Volunteers. A memorial has been erected on the point in honour of that great 149 A Woman's Winter in Africa Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, for it was his eyes that discovered this whole coast in his search for the land of Prester John and the King of Calicut. Upon his arrival here on Christ- mas Day, 1497, he named the country Natal. For some miles along the front the Municipality have laid out an esplanade ; and its wide macadamized walk, bounded by greensward and planted with palms, pepper trees, aloes, mimosa, and various other tropical plants, gives one an ever-changing panorama of the beauties of bay and landscape. As I walked down West Street, I thought that had I been blind- folded, then suddenly the fold removed, and asked, " Where are you?" I should have answered, "In some town in England." How good it seemed to hear your own language, and to feel that if you lost your way or asked a question you would be answered in some familiar phrase ! The shops are very attractive, and you can obtain all that you may require, and at practically the same price as in London. In the Portuguese towns the smallest neces- sary article was not to be found ; and even in the well-organized towns of Tanga and Dar-es-Salaam nothing that European women desire can be purchased. People who are obliged to reside in these parts must bring enough to last the usual two or three years, or ask friends to shop for them at home and send things out. It was therefore delightful to re- stock a few necessities. To see good chemists, photographers, book-shops, tea-rooms, and stores for men and women was an appreciated luxury. At last I have been able to find two good curio shops, where genuine Zulu and. Kaffir work can be bought. They show many wonderful and weird objects — native beadwork, shields, assegais, carved goods, calabashes, ju jus, bangles, arrows, necklaces, and other curios too numerous to mention, besides ostrich feathers, goldstone ornaments and Cape rubies. " Imp " warned me not to spend too much money, but I have a weakness for barbaric curios, and the good native work here is not at all cheap. The shop I particularly recommend is : The African Curio Company, 394 West Street. Durban has probably the finest public buildings in Africa. The Town Hall is a splendid architectural work, reminding one very much of the equivalent building in Buenos Ayres. It was erected at a cost of £300,000 and opened in 1910. The Assembly l5° GATHERING COCOANUTS. A Woman's Winter in Africa Hall will accommodate over 3000 people. It also contains a Library, Museum, and Art Gallery. The Post and Telegraph Office, which was formerly the Town Hall, has a clock tower 164 feet high, and is a landmark for miles around Durban. The Public Library, churches, railway station, Drill Hall, Masonic Hall, and all public offices are built of solid stone, brick, or granite. No artificiality or stucco appears in their formation, and they are quite worthy of our great cities. Drainage, water, and electricity are laid down as at home ; and this is the first English town I have visited along Africa where postmen deliver the mail at your door. I was surprised to find the absence of this at Salisbury and Bulawayo. The tramway service is excellent, and very cheap ; also easy to find, as the post office in the middle of the town is the terminus. If one takes the car marked Marriott Road and the Berea one passes through the main streets, past the racecourse, golf links, polo and recreation grounds, and ascends the Berea. The charming villa homes lying in the midst of gardens are likened to pearls set in emeralds, and to look down on the town from the sloping banks by night one seems to see the scene of a great celebration ; for everywhere illuminations blaze. All the streets have English names, Musgrave Road being exceedingly pretty. In Gordon Road and Newmarket Street large trees of oleander and bushes of hibiscus, flowering acacias, and eucalyptus trim the neat and carefully tended gardens. Occasional glimpses of blue sea in the distance make this Berea tram ride one of the pleasantest and cheapest I have ever known. One silly and annoying rule they have is that instead of paying the amount of your ride at once, the conductor comes around every mile and a half and demands 2d. Just as you begin to get interested in the scenery you must fish in your purse for two more pennies ! The tram takes a circular route, and lands you back again at your starting-point. I again mounted a tram and went to Ocean Beach. I place Durban as the third prettiest beach I have seen. I think that Biarritz should be first, the formation of rocks there giving it an advantage. Newport, Rhode Island, comes second. This beach has a fine esplanade, kept spotlessly clean, and harmless pools for children to enjoy themselves in, pretty shelters built in the style of Kaffir kraals, a large semicircular iron pier LS2 I >iirl>;m argesl swimming IW^IWftll8^¥(^*i**WBiBI' enclosure, shark-proof, for bathers, and th< pool ill the world. It was a Sunday, and a pei fed day. Thousands of men, women, and children wore diving through breakers, sliding down the high water shoot into the pool, burying themselves with sand, and all enjoying to the utmost the delights of nature. Horseback rides were also indulged in. Ranged at the back stand a long line of hotels, and on the beach one remarks the large restauranl oi the Model Dairy Company, who supply refreshments at moderate prices. It is open on most sides, and would seat hundreds of people. What a glorious sight it was ! Ths magnifi- cent beach with the great white breakers of the Indian Ocean hissing and kissing the golden sands. Moun- tains of pale green water rise up like de- vouring monsters to attack the sands, are vanquished, then rein- carnated in soft foam, white as curd. On the left side the green- clothed Bluff blocks wage war, while on the top of this the lighthouse and wireless telegraph station stand like a candlestick. The Bluff belongs to the Government, and there is an idea of fortifying it. Along its sides in the deep jungle of shrub and trees monkeys and snakes abound. I am told it is dangerous. The Municipality are considering the project of extending the esplanade as far as Umgeni Point, a further distance of two and a half miles, and it is hoped that this improvement will be accomplished during the next five years. One part of the beach recalls Folkestone. There is a green lawn with many chairs having umbrella awnings; and people dressed in their Sunday best sit and chat during church parade. On the other side of the Bluff is a large whale industry, with a DURBAN BEAC DO A Woman's Winter in Africa factory for refining oil. The company has a fleet of twelve boats resembling our North Sea trawlers ; in the season each crew expects to capture two or three whales a clay. Their method of attack is with the harpoon gun and explosives. There are many sharks in these waters, and they tell me that often when they haul the whales in they And them terribly mutilated by the sharks during their helpless progress through the water. Another big industry on the opposite side which is familiar to home people is Messrs. Lever Brothers' Sunlight Soap manufactory, which has assumed enormous proportions, employing hundreds of workers. Sir William Lever, tlr: purchaser of that historic pile Stafford House, has recently paid a visit to his works. With theatres and amusements Durban is well supplied, and such artists as Martin Harvey, and most of our best theatrical representatives, have paid visits here. That charming artiste Miss Margaret Cooper was playing at the Royalty Theatre. Recently a unique event took place, the starting of " Springbok Scott " and " Jock Armstrong " from the Town Hall on their self- imposed task to walk overland to London by way of Egypt and Turkey. They expect to cross sea only from Calais to Dover. Mr. Scott, the champion walker, completed a io,jOO-mile walk around South Africa, and after a rest of three months this inde- fatigable athlete started again on an adventure which he con- templates will last over two years. He had a great send-off during a thunderstorm, and was accompanied some distance along the Umgeni road by the Geordie Cummings bagpipes. Patriotism and memorials have not been neglected in this go-ahead town. In the Public Gardens a graceful figure of Queen Victoria, executed in white marble, informs you : ' Victoria, Queen and Empress. This statue was erected by the citizens of Durban to commemorate the sixtieth year of the glorious reign of their beloved Sovereign : a.d. 1837-1807." Directly facing the Town Hall is a memorial to Sir John Robinson, k.c.m.g., first Prime Minister of Natal. At its base is a profusion of red, white, and blue blossoms. Another revered name in this Valhalla of memories is a statue to the Right Hon. Henry Escombe, r.c, q.c, LL.D., M.L.A., 1838-1899. A pathetic record of bravery is shown by a bronze and granite group, recalling the brave who fell in the war of 1899-1902. The inserted tablets on the sides give the names of the heroes who L54 I )urban were killed. Mitchell Park, in which the zoological collection is situated, and the splendid Botanical Gardens should be visited. The famous dry dock and Wool Exchange would be of interest to many. I visited the Coolie Market near the Mohammedan mosque. Sometimes curios direct from the natives can be boughl al verj low prices, and it is a medley of colour to watch the assemblage of Indians, Chinese, Japanese, Zulus, Swazis, and Hottentol , Durban has rather more than its share of flowers and fruit. The papau fruit, iced and with a sprinkle of lemon, which they serve for breakfast in the hotel, is most refreshing; also the grenadilla, placed with ice in a glass. The mangoes are smaller than at Zanzibar. Other fruits are the orange, rose-apple, custard apple, banana, guava, loquat, amatungulu, and avocada-pear. One of the joys of travel is the finding of new things, giving the eyes different views and the appetite diversified tastes. In what- ever country f am I like to try the home products, whether it is a certain " plat ' or a fruit. I remember being in Russia at a dinner given at the restaurant of the Hermitage at Moscow, which is considered the best and most expensive m Russia. The maitre d'hotel had been interviewed, ami the result was a wonder- ful meal of the favoured Russian dishes. We all enjoyed il im- mensely except one English lady, who refused nearly everything, and at last asked for a piece of cold beef. Now it is a cruelty and a waste for people like that to travel — they simply martyrize themselves and everyone else. It would be much better if they remained at home, where ham and eggs and roast beef are always available ! On my return to the General, after three days on shore, my fellow-voyagers declared unanimously that Durban had more than fulfilled their expectations. At night, with the band playing, the full moon pushing away and lighting up obtrusive clouds, Durban faded out, its multitudes of lights resembling in the distance a well-spread-out Milky Way. " Imp" wishes to stay longer; although I should love to, I say it is impossible. One of the most delightful pilgrimages, and one which no traveller should miss, is a visit to the Trappist Monastery, or 155 A Woman's Winter in Africa ' Mariannhill Mission," at Mariannhill. It is situated amid lovely rural surroundings about twenty miles from Durban. Captain Fielder, whose kindness and courtesy have been appreciated by hosts of voyagers on the General, invited Her Excellency Madame Schnee and myself to motor to this interesting abode of the monks. In flying quickly over the country one realizes why Natal has been called the " Garden Colony." The roads are good on the whole. Wherever you look over the softly rolling downs banana, papau, and palm trees wave in the sea breezes, and long lines of MARIANNHILL. TRAPI'IST MONKS. opulent farms stretch themselves over the landscape. We pass Pine Town on the way, with several small hotels, and see wagons drawn by eight pair of mules. Also a great many Indians, the women in orange and magenta cotton, burdened with nose rings, bracelets, and anklets. A sign-post shows the way to New German Town, where there has recently been established a German agricultural colony. On arriving at the Monastery we pass through a substantial portico and gateway of red brick trimmed with white. A large tablet representing the Madonna and Child in white marble is 156 Durban framed over the entrance. The Master Father greets us, his contented countenance and quid smile speaking 01 the peace lie has found in his life and benevolent work. Graciously welcoming us, he says he will be delighted to show this extensive retreat, whose followers have been doing good deeds in secret lor more than thirty years. We inquired if the brothers were allowed to speak, and our genial Samaritan confided : ' Yes, our Order permits us to converse now, but when I first became a disciple of the Faith we remained silent. I never talked for twenty-five years." [magine this ! The isolation of spirit, the continual prayers, the long days from sunrise till sunset filled by hard work with never any recreation. One asks oneself, "Does the God who we are told is compassionate and full of love for His children demand such iron handed sacrifice ? " I say no. This estate covers some thousands of acres, and every industry and art has its department, presided over by the Brother whose tastes and ability qualify him to take charge. They have many black boys under them, to whom they teach trades, making them useful workmen. The principal Father, who conducts our party, wears white with a wide black stole back and front. The Brothers don a brown garment and black stole, and nearly all are bearded. Our first halt was to watch the monks hewing granite. When completed these huge blocks will form a monument to the founder, Abbot France, whose portrait, depicting a calm, gentle face, we afterwards saw in the museum. A large blacksmithery stood with hospitable open doors. Forges blazed and red-hot iron was being turned. A holy-faced monk busied himself making keys by a window through which a singularly beautiful valley of green revealed itself. The next building was a carpenter's shop, showing practical furniture, every piece hand-made ; and here they were also building heavy ox-carts. In each department were the blacks who were being taught the trades which would make them clever, useful men. Zulus who came from the dense bush were by patient teaching of the monks converted into clever craftsmen. The photographic gallery should not be missed, as here one discovers hundreds of interesting views, and intimate knowledge of the Kaffir home life. The artistic Brother who is responsible for this building is not 157 A Woman's Winter in Africa content with camera effects, but is also a marvellous worker in stained glass. The material itself comes out from Germany in sheets, but is cut and put together in charmingly original designs. The Brothers have constructed all the windows for their church, besides those for several in Natal. This community is German, the headquarters being in Bavaria, the Fathers and Brothers speaking both German and English, also French ; and one cannot help wondering how they retained their ; linguistic abilities after the many years of enforced silence. The miscellaneous collection accumulated in the museum defies description. An enormous number of large frogs reposing in spirit jars, dreadful snakes, including the deadly " Black Mamba," a golden mole, small fox mice, dozens of scorpions — yellowy brown and black, with their elongated tail and tiny tip from which they exude their poison — all are there. Tovely birds are splendidly mounted ; and Kaffir curios in very-well-done bead work. Some pieces of rock with Bushmen painting I found most interesting, the colours of the dark red men on brown stone striking me as unlike anything I had ever seen before. Another remarkable wriggly being in a bottle was brought out. The monks were experimenting on this species, which proved to be a newly discovered spider, which kills and eats frogs. The long Latin name of it I could not catch. There were cases of bugs, insects, and an assemblage of the most gloriously coloured butter- flies, the green Queen moth being especially remarkable. Coins, some of them old Hebrew, a whole family of watches, one dated London, 1582, and a map of primitive Africa during the period of 1770 completed this original museum, which will live in memory's page for years to come. ' But we have not yet finished," asserted our guide with his sympathetic smile. And he led us to the bakery. The odour of freshly baked loaves was delicious, and made me feel quite hungry. The bread was white, and that made with mealies a shade darker ; but the dimensions were colossal, each loaf measuring a yard long and a foot high. Every assistant was scrupulously clean, and the great ovens glowed as the loaves were shoved in and out. The vegetable gardens of the monks have attained great renown, for they supply an immense quantity to the householders of Durban. We saw the tannery, with lizard, crocodile, and calf skins drying, and watched the evolution from hide to fashionable, well-made boots 158 I >urban and shoes. The saddlery department turned ou1 harness <»t every description, strongly sewn and capable of durability. The sun was very warm although a breeze was blowing. Oui benign Father insisted that we should next visit their dining- dormitory and partake oi refreshment. One hundred and twi nty Fathers and Brothers dine there. A table had been laid for us. Everything was very simple, but beautifully clean and appetizing. Bread, several kinds of delicious cakes which the Sisters had sent down, and excellent red wine made by the monks themselves were served. DINING-ROOM OF THE TRAPP1STS. In the two schools on the estate the Mission are educating five hundred children, halt of whom are boys in charge of the Brothers, and the remainder of the opposite sex arc taken care of by the Sisters, whose establishment is but a short distance away. After inspecting the church, which is a new and modern structure of brick, the holy pictures on the walls depicted in bright colours to please th : native mind, we passed on to interview the Mother Superior. When the Holy Father showed us the font he remarked : " Although we wash them in white water, yet the black does not come off." We took our motor, the Father accompanying us, and 159 A Woman's Winter in Africa drove to the Convent. The Mother Superior was presented to us, and she told me that she was born in New York State. She went to London, then lived in Belgium, and for twenty years has done her charitable work in Natal. She was charming, and the sweet placidity of her features bespoke the purity of her heart. Every moment of her day while the light lasts is occupied in the great achievement she has set herself to accomplish — the teaching to work and the enlightening of the black girls to become useful and self-respecting women. Her uniform, which we considered most becoming, was of the German colours — dark red dress, black stole, and large white cap. The Mother sadly communicated to us that by rule of the Order these colours, which had become en- deared to them by many years' use, were about to be changed, and grey substituted as the principal colour scheme. The achievement of these Sisters, hidden away amongst the hills of Natal, deserves to be recorded. We were shown their workrooms. Picture a long corridor with fifty sewing-machines in a double row each side. These machines are run by motor power, and the moment the feet touch the pedal sewing commences. By a pressure of the knee the needles release the cloth. In an outer room we were shown the motor, which was efficiently run by a sweet-faced nun. The Father jokingly called her " the engine-driver." Upstairs was a similar room, where upon long tables lay stacks of rough khaki and jean cloth. The nuns have a contract to supply clothing for the miners of the Transvaal, consequently the garments must be of coarse and durable material and make. On each table is a thickness of twelve layers of cloth. Upon the face are chalk lines denoting shapes and numbers. The raw Kaffir or Zulu girl takes a sharp knife, and, as if she were paring cheese, cuts out the different portions of overalls or suits — -each section being numbered and the joinings shown. These are handed over to the machine-girl, and a suit is finished in about half an hour — well done. The pockets and braces are not only strongly sewn, but riveted as well by small brass clamps, so that the material has to be torn out before a rip or rent can be made. Another industry is knitting. They have machines for this, and the Sister informed me that a girl working the entire day could knit one dozen pairs of stockings. They are also endeavouring 1 60 I )urban to teach the girls the higher art of lace-making and embroidery. I should like to have bought some lace as a souvenir of my visil , but so popular has this industry become that all the lace available had been privately ordered. They showed us some church banners most marvellously embroidered, and copied from pictures of the Saints. I hope I have not bored my reader by too long an accounl of the Mission ; but to see the place is to love it, and the genuinely good work to which these kindly people devote their lives should be recognized. For the information of those who motor I may mention that the price our chauffeur charged was £2 15s. for the car, with a tip of 5s., with which he was fully content. l 161 CHAPTER XXIII East London THE s.s. General dropped anchor before East London about three in the afternoon. Captain Fielder said we had better not venture ashore until the morning, as often a squall drives up the surf across the sand-bar leading to the entrance of the Buffalo River, and over the long jetty, with such terrific force that it is almost impossible to get back to the ship. As it is the wool season we are taking on board enormous quantities of soft bales, which th-?y tell me are ideal to handle as cargo. We shall be obliged to wait here the greater part of two days. From the steamer East London has a prepossessing appearance. If you desire to keep your first opinion, my advice is, Don't be disillusioned by going on shore ! The next morning Captain Fielder, Mr. and Mrs. Whitehouse, world-wide American travellers, and myself entered the round basket used in descending to the lurching, rollicking launch below, which acted exactly like a drunken man. It is a very easy mode of changing ship. Seven people occupy the large basket — standing. They present a rather droll appearance as heads and hats protrude above the rim of the unique carrier. Its door is firmly bolted, the cargo officer waves his hand, a crane works, one is for the moment suspended in mid-air by a cable cord, then very gently swung over the side of the ship and dumped into the launch. The door opens, and out you emerge, quite content that it has been no worse. 1 had been through the same experience at Pernambuco, and find it the most practical and safe manner of landing, especially in water where sharks abound, and safer than the method adopted in many waterways, where with the sea bounding ten feet or so you grimly hold on to the rope, a quivering festoon. When the word " Jump " comes you obey, not knowing whether you will land into someone's friendly arms or at the bottom of a boat with a sprained ankle. Possibly into that most roomy place — the sea ! 162 East London Our launch rolled its way to a jetty and breakwater, past a dredging boat which was strenuously working to cat up sand, and entered the Buffalo River. The channel is narrow, and requires constant dredging. Big ships come up to dis< harge cargo. There are two Castle Liners, and one of the Clan Line, hut our ship requires deeper water. As one enters the river the scenery becomes charming. I should imagine that it increased in beauty farther up. Where there are waterfalls it would be very picturesque. Just here,asthe local hooks tell you, it in a measure looks like our Dartmouth, only not nearly so artistic. We landed and took a carriage with two horses — 3s. 6d. an hour was the cost. It is wise to order a conveyance beforehand, otherwise you have to walk up a long dusty hill a considerable distance from the town. I am sorry I cannot say very much for the charms of East London. After Durban, which was a model town in every way, this place appeared crude, new, and ugly. My friend said it was exactly like a primitive Australian town ; but as I have never visited that vast country I cannot vouch for it. We drove to the market square, where the most prominent building was that of Messrs. Mosenthal and Co., Ltd. The square had an air of desolation. Spans of eight and ten mules drew wagon loads of merchandise which in Europe would require, I think, two or three strong horses. Although this is a very important place, and the frontier port of Cape Colony, exporting and importing for the vast lands of Transkei and native territories, the streets, houses, and general population gave the impression that they knew this was not home. They were obliged to remain here in order to gain the wealth which they hoped would make them a home in the Motherland. The gardens surrounding the painted corrugated-iron dwellings were dry, and showed no taste or enthusiasm of their owners. Very few really artistic or beautiful houses were passed, although we went through countless streets. Certainly a few hibiscus hedges and oleanders exhibited some blooms, but even they looked drooping, as if demanding, " Why should we bloom ? People do not appreciate us." St. Peter's Road inaugurates the best residential quarter, then Cemetery Road, Recreation Road, and Jubilation Road — this is exactly as they run, and whether you are supposed to find recrea- 163 A Woman's Winter in Africa tion and jubilation in or after the cemetery I leave you to judge for yourselves. Of all the dreary ways since the nitrate ports of South America, I have not encountered anything so bad. We were a very amiable party, not prejudiced in any way, and anxious to find something we could rhapsodize over. The one remark which was universally reiterated was — " How different from Durban ! ' I suppose it would not be well to have every place beautiful. Certainly East London is a change. We passed gigantic tin go-downs. The Texas Oil Co. throve. The Belgrave Hotel was a dismal structure. Quite close were two solidly built schools — one for girls, the other for boys. The children whom we saw playing outside were splendid-looking youngsters, and a credit to South Africa. Oxford Street was inspected. This is their main street. The thoroughfare is wide, with a very good tram service, which also leads down to the beach. Some of the shops are good. Stephenson and Mitchell's is the best drapery emporium. One curio shop I entered, but the price they asked for ostrich feathers gave me the impulse to take a returning ship to Paris, buy a stock, then come out here and re-sell them ! The Town Hall is quite a handsome building, with clock tower in brick and white trimmings. In front of it a fine war memorial is surmounted by a large bronze equestrian figure. I noticed two small picture theatres. The Central Hotel, well recommended, was gloomy, and needed a new coat of paint. Dyer and Dyer had not a cheerful tone ! Palmerston House belittled its name, and ugly small tin houses without a scrap of loveliness dominated all. We drove to the market, which was entirely empty. I am fond of markets, because there you see the fruits of the country. In the shops I saw a few tiny pineapples, which they tell me are deliciously flavoured, and many water-melons. I inspected the Queen's Park. There everything was better — nice carriage drives, trees of every description, flowers, oleanders, and hibiscus in hedges; glimpses of lovely green hills, a garden where roses were dying from thirst, and an ornamental brown water pond, with white swans apparently quite contented. The Park must have been a great effort on the part of the municipal bigwigs, and I willingly give them all praise. Next we visited the beach, which by the generous aid of the eternal tin has been evolved to thwart Nature's handiwork. A dull woebegone building, which was labelled " Beach Hotel " in the front and " Boarding House " on the back, gave you an idea of the 164 3 < A Woman's Winter in Africa accommodation. This seaside resort looked almost palatial from our ship, but on closer inspection we found that the authorities had done all in their power to spoil the symmetry of the beach. They inform me that the grand season is about Christmas time, and that thousands of people spend their holidays by the sea, bringing their own tents for camping out. They certainly possessed a Joy Wheel, and a something called a Mirror Hall. In the town there were two picture theatres. Farmers journeying seawards find this no end of a gay abode. Amongst other crudities on the jaunty sands were a tin shelter for natives, worded in black letters, " For Females Only," another for "Males"; and a little farther, the splendid term "Ladies Only." Who ever knew a black woman who did not call herself a lady ? Consequently I should judge from what I know of their natures that the latter shelter would be patronized to such an over- crowded extent that suffocation would ensue. One could fancy the language which one black lady would use to the other woman who dared thrust her unwelcome presence upon the " elite of Society " ! The white population here registers 13,000. There are many clubs and churches. Of water there is a large supply. Many things favour East London, but as a tourist one wishes they would cover their mean-looking tin residences with vines and green- stuffs ; also expend a few more pennies in flower packets. It would, I am sure, make them much happier : as they have plenty of water there is no expense. Instead of showing a town which resembles a bushmen's or miners' camp, they could, with a small amount of trouble, cover up their mean streets with profusions of flowers and change the dreary aspect into a garden of beauty. I am sorry for East London, but I must write the truth about the places I visit, and have conscientiously done my best. DON'TS BY " IMP " Don't go ashore. Rather rest and read. It looks much more attractive from your steamer chair. Rest and laze. 166 CHAPTE R XXIV Port Elizabeth DOWN went the anchor, and up I hurried to see what Port Elizabeth looked like from my ship. Whether I was still sleepy or had dreamt of the East I do not know, but anyhow I fancied from the distance it looked Oriental, though I found afterwards that I was wrong. One sees lines upon lines of long go-downs, most of them overflowing with wool, mohair, skins, and, most beautiful of all, ostrich feathers ; for it is in this colony that the haughty ostrich flourishes. Hundreds of farms in the interior export these lovely millinery accessories to all the great centres of the world. A bunch of white feathers plucked from the bird in his RESIDENTIAL QUARTER. natural environment may in two months' time be waving on the hat of a Society lady driving in the Palermo at Buenos Ayres, or be held as a fan to refresh the slumbers of some important Maharani in India. What stories of joy and tragedy these feathers could tell were they possessed of human power as they journey on through their career, and, like some fallen beauties, eventually, when thin, begrimed, and old, end their despoiled days in slums! Harriet loves her feathers and clings to them, no matter how straight or 167 A Woman's Winter in Africa dishevelled they have become. Can anything be softer, whiter, or more beautiful than masses of these magnificent adornments ? I have seen pounds and pounds of them in the shops, feathers averaging about a hundred to a pound, and varying in price from £25 to £50 and £60. Ostrich feathers have had Royal favour since our earliest historical records. A feather was the emblem of sovereignty in the days of the Pharaohs ; Rameses the Great showed them in his cartouche ; the Queen of Sheba, we read, wore them on her visit to King Solomon, while he in his turn showed her the marvels of gold from his wonderful Land of Ophir. From the Ptolemaic period Cleopatra has left us a picture unforgettable as she reclined clothed in golden tissue, the purple silk sails of her dahabeeyah swaying gently, and her slaves fan- ning the beautiful Queen with Royal feather fans. So feathers have figured down the centuries of chronicled time to the present day, where they show prominently in the coat-of-arms of our Prince of Wales. I took a launch to the jetty, and at first glance discovered that Port Elizabeth was in no way related to East London. Here everything was gilded in up-to-dateness, clean, bright, vigilant. Long warehouses spelt wealth ; the fine main street, a moment's walk from the jetty, meant enterprise. In the Square a Lown Hall costing £26,000, built in Renaissance style, with clock tower, creditably upheld the prestige of progressive success. Facing it an obelisk in reddish granite towers triumphantly, the base of which is a commodious drinking fountain for animals. Across the Market Square a splendid library, a Mecca for readers, of some 45,000 volumes, charms the literary taste of the public. In front of this stands a more than life-sized statue of Queen Victoria in marble. In the Square, as already remarked, stand eight span of oxen drawing a comparatively small load. This I cannot understand, but probably the roads are bad in the interior and the distances great. It is quite comfortably cool to-day, and most refreshing to those who have passed six weeks in the real tropics. I dislike that sensation, when you are doing your hair in the morning and trying to get it up, and the strands cling fast to your shoulders and stick, refusing to move until nearly torn out ! I am sure a good deal of it is outrooted. 168 Port Elizabeth This morning at breakfast the Captain, officers, and steward laid aside their white linens and came out in blue serge. It was a relief to me once more to wear serge myself. The end of February in this part of the world C equivalent to early autumn at home. The fruit is certainly most inviting. I passed several shops in which large ripe melons, peaches, grapes, and pines spoke of a plentiful harvest. I was sorry to hear this morning that the mangoes were giving out on board. They had been brought out from Zanzibar and Dar-es-Salaam, and were in perfect condition. Nothing is more refreshing in a hot climate than an iced mango. It is a pity this fruit is not more easily obtainable at home. I next directed myself to the wool market, which on certain days is also the feather market. It is a huge enclosed structure with a gallery, from which, looking down, one saw thousands of bales of this useful material, many of which are open for inspection. An auction was going on in one corner, the workmen who handled the bales wearing long blue cotton garments to prevent the wool from adhering to their clothes. On one side of the wool market an immense concert hall opens out, containing a very hue organ. It was here that Madame Clara Butt and Mr. Kennerley Rumford gave their concert when recently they visited South Africa. There is a large Opera House, and near it several theatres ; also an arcade, artistically built, with a long night of steps and shops on either side. Some of the streets running up to the residential quarter are very steep. The Standard Bank of South Africa is a fine building, and there are many others. One of the first names you read upon landing is Mosenthal and Co., wool merchants. Obviously they reign here as well as at East London. Churches exist of every denomination, and Port Elizabeth excels by being the only town on the coast which owns a real Hindoo temple. This small white place of worship is down in the valley through which about four years ago the floods caused such havoc, carrying houses away to the sea as the waters rushed along in their maddened heedless career. I took a carriage and drove along the main street, which was filled with well-dressed, prosperousdooking people, who were splendid representatives of their race. The shops were a credit to any large 169 A Woman's Winter in Africa city, and it appeared that one could find almost anything one desired. Old familiar names followed me, and gave a homelike touch — Sunlight Soap, Mazawattee Tea, Zebra Polish, Reckitt's Blue. I can't think what Sir Thomas Lipton is doing, for I certainly saw no sign emblazoning Lipton 's Tea ! This fact should receive immediate attention ! The main street, after being respectable for some miles, eventually ends in a slum, and is crowded with warehouses, while the breakers literally lick their back doors. " Imp " likes this place, and as I am alone to-day, the Spirit of Travel is beside me. We now ascend " The Hill," and look upon the residential region. The wide macadamized streets, the trees shading the side-walks, hundreds of artistic houses with clean, well-kept grounds, make this part homeland indeed. The flowers are lovely. Large trees of pink and white oleander, bougainvillaea, hedges of hibiscus, and roses decorate and beautify these gardens and homes. It would appear from their cheerful exteriors that each inhabitant had thought out to the best of his ability how to please the eye of resident and traveller. Rosebery Avenue, Dickens Street, Cape Road, Park Drive, Warmer, and several other routes would be pleasant places to reside in. At the end of Cape Road was the Golf Links, with eighteen holes. It possesses a fine inland view. Nazareth House, with its convent and schools surrounded by pepper trees and pines, looked a peaceful retreat. In St. George's Park I much admired the monument over the reservoir in terra-cotta to the memory of the officers and men who died in the Transkei in 1877, and Basutoland in 1880-1881. At times the fountains play here, with rainbow effects which are really lovely. A unique statue a short distance beyond I considered well worth noticing: It was a large stone drinking- fountain, and on its top a soldier in bronze was holding a bucket of water to his jaded horse. Both figures were splendidly designed, and underneath the natural rock was written : ' The greatness of a nation consists not so much in the number of its people or the extent of its territory as in the extent and justice of its compassion " ; below this under the ever-running water were these words : " Erected by public subscription in recognition of the services of the gallant animals which perished in the Anglo- Boer War 1899-1902." It struck me as a happy sentiment to 170 Port Elizabeth remember the dumb beasts who did their pari as valiantly as their masters. How many thousands of horses have Lef1 theii bones to whiten on battle-fields with no memorial to mark their sacrifice! I had never before seen any recognition of these services. I next went to Bunton's Grand Hotel, which is spoken of as the best. It certainly was clean and comfortable-looking, with a nice view of the sea. Across the road is Donkin Reserve, from which, £*■ IN MEMORY OK THE ANIMALS WHICH PERISHED IN THE BOXR WAR. looking down on the sea, our ship and the Walmer Castle appeared like children's launches. Here stands a tall white lighthouse, and a pyramid-shaped monument in brown stone built to the memory of Lady Donkin, which is inscribed : ' One of the most perfect human beings, who has given her name to the town below." The terms are certainly eulogistic. Lady Donkin was the wife of Sir Rufane Donkin, the first Governor; it was he who at the head of a small colony landed here in 1820 and established Port Elizabeth, the Liverpool of South Africa. 171 A Woman's Winter in Africa We shall be delayed two full days. In East London we took on 2000 bales of wool, and now the cranes are vigorously gathering seven and eight sacks at a bite and depositing them below. Verily, the space of a ship's hold is limitless. Port Elizabeth is blessed inasmuch as there is no fever, and it is considered distinctly healthy. The proof of this may be read in the faces of rosy-cheeked children whom one sees playing about, even in the primitive quarters of the negroes. They have taken the trouble to cultivate the homely but decorative sunflower, which excels itself in these small gardens, and various flowering creepers drape themselves around their tin houses, lending a touch of primitive beauty. The Port Elizabeth Club is a handsome structure, large, and with double verandah. Opposite the Donkin Reserve are the newly-built King Edward Mansions, commanding a splendid view. These are residential flats, and catering is clone on the premises, altogether making a charming abode. Thus Port Elizabeth, with its splendid situation, clean health- sheet, pleasant homes, unmistakable wealth and progress, makes the English traveller proud of its 20,000 inhabitants. In their turn they should venerate the memory of their ancestral pioneers for choosing this fortunate site on which to establish one of the finest towns of the sub-continent. 172 CHAPTER XXV ( 'aptain Fielder and the s.s. tl General" THE General is the last addition to the Fleet of the Deutsche Ost-Afrika Linie, with the exception of the Tabora. She is 8000 tons, and is one of the most luxurious and up-to-date steamers afloat — especially designed for the tropics. The General has extraordinary advantages over other ships, for she is fitted with the new process to prevent sea-sickness, the anti-rolling tanks. These tanks have proved to be very successful in their steadying capabilities, and one feels little motion, even in the roughest seas. They are built into the ship three feet above the false bottom, and 40 feet long, 17 feet deep, and 15 feet wide. The space for 360 tons of cargo must be sacrificed to this new invention. Water is pumped into these huge receptacles, 140 tons being required to keep the equilibrium. As the ship sways the water surging through its various compartments rights the vessel from side to side, and preserves a nearly even balance. This method las been tried on some of the great German liners crossing to America, but to be entirely successful the tanks must be constructed into the steamer when it is built. The cabins have been thought out with great consideration for comfort. The one I occupy is an ordinary first -class room. On the floor a dark red carpet of a soft thick weave is spread. The berths are not built one over the other, in the old-fashioned style, but one is placed alongside and the other to the back following the wall. Over each, in a white and gold china receptacle, electric light blazes, which is really ex- cellent and placed conveniently < iver y< >ur 1 lead for reading purposes, the switch not being, as is usual, at the other extremity of the cabin. For bed, door, and port are curtains of white cotton with red, white, and black borders — the German colours. Two racks, one for books and one to hold light articles, hang on the wall. A small picture — mine is a knight in armour riding over sand-dunes gives a homelike aspect. In all the ships of this line each cabin has its art representative. It affords amusement in visiting our friends to see what they possess in the way of pictures. A shell A Woman's Winter in Africa table stands by your couch under the port. An electric fan and plenty of hanging hooks one finds most useful. There are two wardrobes ; in the door of each is a panel mirror, where it is possible to see your waist. In many of the ships on which I have made my temporary home it was impossible to see how to adjust one's belt or the hang of a gown. The wash- stands are very similar to those on other ships. We have an innovation, however. Nickel-plated brackets hold white china bowls for sponge and toothbrushes. These are particularly easy to keep clean, permitting the air to dry and purify them. Alto- gether these cabins are very comfortable. The dining-saloon has small and large tables to accommodate different parties. The walls are faced with greyish-coloured marble, not only giving a cool effect in these hot climates, but also hygienic, as it can be kept clean. An elegant frieze of black and white storks, Japanese in design, is mosaicked into the marble. Mirrors, an abundance of electric lights, and flower-laden tables make a gay scene at dinner. The kitchens and serving-pantries opposite are wide open, passengers convincing themselves that in this department all is as it should be. Up a wide staircase, panelled with marble and mirrors, one enters the Palm Lounge. This is indeed a pleasant spot in which to linger. The skylight has trails of ivy and from it hang pots of ferns and climbers. Numerous palms, cro tons, and tropical plants decorate the marble sides. Deep, comfortable cane chairs with cushions surround small tables. Here coffee is served. Opening out of the Lounge on one side is the ladies' drawing-room. This is furnished with Chippendale chairs, a piano, and writing-tables. At the other end are the cabins de luxe, in which are two bedsteads, marble wash-basins, a table, sofa, chairs, and connecting a bathroom with every modern convenience. In walking along the wide promenade deck one comes to the smoking-room ; this also is finished in grey marble. The table is excellent — the most fastidious traveller could find little to grumble at on the General. Nearing Cape Town, Cape Agulhas is passed. This name means "Needles," and makes one think of a very different " Needles " on our own coast. How long the voyage in rounding the Cape must have seemed to that great Portuguese explorer Da Gama ! His tiny ships would hardly dare to venture far in these days of bombs and aeroplanes ! 174 - o O a w 2 CHAPTER XXVI Cape Town TO those who love beautiful scenery I should like to recom- mend their being on deck as the steamer threads her way along this magnificent high mountainous coast. It was a moon- light evening, with a strong wind blowing ; this latter is a frequent visitor in this part of the world. The dark, turbulent waters, with angry seething foam, gave the impression of a sea of molten iron as some friends and myself clung to the rail, too fascinated by the grandeur of the scene to go below, although it was very cold and past midnight. The dazzling beacons of lighthouses winked and flashed, showing CAPE TOWN FROM THE DISTANCE. the way, and passing us on to sister-lights. Moonlight shining on the clouds made it look as though the mountains were covered with snow. Point after point was left behind, and several bush fires lighted up the mountains, giving a firework effect. Table Mountain and the Lion's Head stand out in bold defiance against a spangled sky. I wondered if it was on a night like this that Da Gama sailed these waters ; and, if so, what were his emotions. The scene would have made a splendid setting for the adventures of Aladdin or the Count of Monte Cristo. Now, like a strand of 176 Cape Town yellow jewels spread over the land, the lights of (ape Town are visible. Then they become brighter and more individual. A large object floats by, blotting out our view for an instant. It is the s.s. Gertrude Woermann hastening homeward. A harsh grating noise disturbs our silence and tells us thai the anchor is being lowered. We are very cold from that south-eastei playing about us, and seek our cabins to fall asleep, anticipating the pleasure of exploring town to-morrow. Sixteen happy days have expired, during which I have been kept extremely busy seeing Cape Town ; and although I worked conscientiously I fear it requires a much longer stay to realize all its beauties, or to give an adequate idea of the capital of our oldest colony in South Africa. However, I will endeavour to give my impressions of what is considered the right thing to do and see from a tourist's point of view. I stayed at Mount Nelson Hotel, which is situated at the foot of Table Mountain. It possesses nice grounds, in which they could with advantage place a few more seats. Without doubt, this hotel is the finest in Cape Town, also in the entire colony. Its public rooms are fair, the dining-rcom very nice, the food and service good. It has a laundry, which for a traveller is a blessing ; but although well-managed and up-to-date, prices are heavy. The guide-book quotes pension at 15s. ; but I presume these fine terms refer to servants' rooms, or are above coal cellars or under eaves ! At any rate, they were undiscoverable, and 17s. 6d. and 18s'. 6d. seemed to be the minimum price for a small, uncomfortable bedroom . This is the most fashionable hotel on the coast, and frequented by Members of Parliament and their ladies. Many dinner parties and sccial gatherings take place. The Company should, how- ever, give more space to wardrobe accommodation. A woman gets cross when she must continually gown herself smartly, and hang six or seven dresses on one hook ! There is no private bathroom in this hostelry even for African millionaires. Still, they desire tourists to leave the Riviera and winter here. The manager and his wife do all in their power to make guests comfortable, but it is not their province to spend the capital of the Company in redecorating rooms or buying wardrobes. One very nice thing in connection with the restaurant was the lavish M I / / A Woman's Winter in Africa supplv of fruit. It being the harvest season — March — this was plentiful, and with every meal an excellent dish was served, comprising delicious grapes, black and white, rigs, nectarines, plums, and peaches. Also different kinds of melons, which every- one seemed to appreciate. The dining-room was wainscoted with oak, and had a high arched ceiling ; and the beautiful glimpses of Table Mountain made splendid pictures. It is extremely pleasant on these autumn days, which are as CAPE TOWN WITH LION MOUNTAIN. warm as summer, to walk through the hotel grounds, cross the road, and enter Government Avenue. This shady, lovely 'way was laid out with oak trees some two hundred years ago by Governor van der Stel, and the present generation should bless his name. For three-quarters of a mile stately oaks climb to a great height, embracing the boughs opposite, forming a splendid colonnade of refreshing green. On one side is Government House, a long rambling structure with hedges of the decorative plumbago, covered with a profusion i78 ( 'ape Town of turquoise! flowers. I do not know if we have it in England, but out here there are miles of its attractive beauty. ( rovernmenl House at present looks deserted, Their Excellencies being away. Through the trees the Parliament buildings show handsomi frontages, claiming to be the finest and most important structures in South Africa. They arc built of red brick, generously trimmed with Pearl granite As Parliament was sitting, and I had a pass, I entered and listened for a short time to the speeches. The Bill under dis- cussion related to the Union Castle S.S. Co., and their rights of mail, freight, and time. It was exceedingly interesting to hear an Englishman's discourse followed by a speech in Dutch. Finally that able statesman Mr. Merriman, tall, thin, with a refined and deeply-thinking face, arose. Every eye was turned to him, and where but a moment before lethargy was most noticeable all were alert, and keen animation depicted. Mr. Merriman in a humorous mood slated them, cutting up with kindly ridicule the suggestions of those who had spoken, until their utterances appeared mere child's talk. After his efficient and skilful harangue the House adjourned. Having some time, I strolled into the Municipal Botanical Gardens, which are fourteen acres in extent, and comprise over eight thousand varieties of trees and plants, also orchids and flowers from all over the earth. Everything at Cape Town suffers from fierce south-easters. Even the gardens do not escape. Bushels of ripe acorns were scattered about, children arriving with baskets to gather them. The eucalyptus is as at home here as in Australia ; and the Prince of Wales' feathers, long grasses with huge silvery tassels, wave gracefully in the breeze towards Table Mountain. The Euphorbia Abyssinica is a cactus of weird aspect, with its thick, twisted outshoots, ugly ridges hanging from it like trailing snakes. Crotons made a brilliant display, while some of the glass houses were emerald-green with maidenhair. Oleanders large as trees, palms, aloes, papvrus, and water lilies typical of Africa formed an interesting collection. But the chef d'eeuvre of the gardens is the statue of Cecil Rhodes. !?9 A Woman's Winter in Africa Sea Point and Camps Bay Cape Town can justly be proud of its electric tram service. The cars leave the Standard Bank every few moments ; it is quite easy to find one's way about, and to get an idea of the environs. One pleasant ride is to Sea Point, three miles away along a pretty road amidst villas and greenery. Each villa, vying with its next- door neighbour, excels in the beauty of its garden. Queen's Hotel is the favourite place, although there are innumerable smaller hostels and boarding-houses. It is the delight of children to spend the day at Sea Point, and many school excursions are arranged. Sitting on the rocks :-■ SEA POINT. in the cove opposite Queen's Hotel, watching the eau-de-nil breakers racing to greet the granite-bound shore, is enchanting. As you gaze inland the hotel newly painted shines like a moon- stone from its green hedges, backed by the frowning, barren Lion's Head. Trams are certainly not expensive. To Sea Point they charge only 3d. Another enjoyable tram ride is to Camps Bay, quite near the Lion's Head. Along the eleven-mile drive splendid panoramic views disclose marvellous effects of mountain slopes and sea-girt shores ; and one returns through Kloof, past homes of wealthy residents and fine gardens, back to Adderley Street. 180 Cape Town During my stay in (ape Town the yearly Agricultural Show was held, bringing a great influx of farmers and their wives from the interior. I have never seen such a display of ostrich feathers. Nearly all the tanners' wives were literally laden with plumes, from the long sweeping decorations on hats to massively thick boas encircling their necks. Certainly feathers were much in favour. One of the novelties of the Show as far as I was concerned was the shearing of the sheep by electric n which appeared a most expeditious method. They tell me that in Australia for some years this procedure has been adopted. 181 CHAPTER XXVII Motoring Around Tabic Mountain TO be remembered among the most lovely drives in the world is motoring around Table Mountain ! though the Corniche Road, with its scenery, is much the same. The Avenida Beira Mar at Rio de Janeiro, the Ocean Drive at Newport, Rhode Island, and the Bay of Naples leave lasting impressions. I left Mount Nelson Hotel with some friends about 10 a.m. The weather was perfect, not one cloud showing in the clear sky. Our car was open, swift, and silent. We sped along the road to Sea Point direct to Camps Bay. The Twelve Apostles rose before us in forbidding array. Their steep crags, clearly outlined by the sunshine which lit up the rocks, showed deep fissures, like wrinkles on an old woman's face. Here the disintegrating waters left undeniable signs. Below us, far down, a cove and bay are passed, each owning its individual name, no favouritism being accorded to their size. We thought each bay had a colour especially its < >wn. There were pale turquoise, deep emerald, crude sapphire, all wearing white fringes of foam with kelp trailing over its surface. On the slopes, creeping and clinging to the base of the mountain, were enormous quantities of the heather bells so dear to Scotland. We rush some dangerous curves on the Victoria Road, a marvellously clever result of engineering work, the manual labour of which was carried out by convicts from Cannon Ball Bav, which shows the origin of its name. The whole beach is strewn with a variety of large and small stones, round, manv polished like a cannon ball. The next turning gives us an entirely different aspect. This is a pure white bay of moonstone sands and marbledike boulders. Always the Lion's Head is visible, and from some points one can distinguish the paw quite easily. Sometimes it does not in the least resemble the most ferocious of beasts, but looks with its barren top like a humble cottage loaf. As one approaches the coast from the sea the Lion's shape shows more definitely. 182 Motoring Around Tabic Mountain On we go, enjoying the beautiful landscape, and from the heights Hmit Bay opens out, showing a lapis-lazuli lake, quite like Switzerland. Here arc fertile valleys in which cattle graze and peaceful farms are dotted in mosaicked greenery. A large farmhouse, called Kronendal, the chauffeur told us was one ol the oldest and most typical Boer residences in the colony. During slavery days it played a prominent part in this useful bu1 dubious trade. Oxer the front door is painted " 1800." Villages are left behind. Now the sun shines hot and bright, A VIEW FROM THE MOUNT NELSON HOTEL. the next moment we are in a glen with long dark alleys oi forest shade, having dappled effects of light and shadow. A large hawk, angry at being disturbed, wings out searching for a quieter retreat. There is music in the trees from feathered throats. Out into the open again, and Table Mountain wearing a purple veil reminds one of some of Sir Herbert Tree's scenic effects, especially those in " The Tempest." One recalls the bleak moun- tains of the Transandine Railway. Eagle's Nest, a picnicking place, is reached. This is surrounded bv a forest ; we see carts full 183 A Woman's Winter in Africa of smiling blacks, happy in the sunshine, who grin as we pass on. Now a wide vista unfolds itself — Table Mountain is without a cloud. The familiar white one (or cloth) has vanished, and the rough tableland edges show sharply against the indigo sky. From here it seems Nature has cut it out with some gigantic knife. For miles thousands of pines stretch on one side, while on the other Cape Town's favourite and world-famous silver-leaf trees spread the mountain side. In the wind all the mountain side seems silver-plated. It is a peculiar thing, but I am told that this tree thrives in no other part of the world. As far as the eye can reach are white sand-dunes, which in the distance one would think were breakers surging ashore. Constantia Valley is entered, and here is situated the Govern- ment Wine Farm. Most of the rich farms in this district, where the land is extremely fertile, are owned by Boers or the Dutch, the best fruits and vegetables coming from here. On each side are vineyards, while houses, churches, and schools testify to the prosperity of the community. Mr. Bertram's splendid residence and farm are much admired ; also Victoria Cottage Hospital, with the Infantry Barracks close by ; the Paradise estate ; and that of J. B. Robinson, Esq. Through oak-treed colonnades is seen the grey barren rock of Table Mountain. Our car passes through the entrance gates of the immense Rhodes estate, racing along a beautifully-kept avenue, on each side of which pine and oak trees vie with each other. The Zoological Gardens, in which Cecil Rhodes took such a keen interest, are kept up to the same standard of perfection. We saw emus, two lions, a leopard, a llama grazing close to the fence, hartebeest, zebra, springbok, monkeys, and all kinds of birds. Then we drove through the fine park to Groote Schuur, the home designed by Cecil Rhodes, whose hobby it was to produce a typical Dutch colonial structure, comprising the best architectural features found in South Africa. An ideal home is Groote Schuur, with its wide shady stoeps, decorated with foliage in tubs, and peculiar early colonial window- shutters in brown wood. The bottom parts of these are closed and the top a sort of rough meshrebiya work, with a picturesque roof and artistic spiral chimneys. Over the entrance a bronze tablet is set in the wall. The workmanship is very fine, depicting the landing of Van Riebeck, the great pioneer and founder of the Colony, surrounded by his followers. In this beautiful retreat are 1 84 Motoring Around Tabic Mountain specimens of every type of flora and fauna. I note an especial preference is given to our old-fashioned blossoms. General Loui Botha, the Premier, and his family now occupy the place. The house is filled with a marvellous collection of antique furniture, curios, and objets d'art. When the family are not in residence the public are admitted to view these treasures. Quite near is another handsome residence, " Westbrook," in which Sir L. Starr Jameson lived in order to be beside his greal ,• . . - V i - ■ ■ r ? n n n r\ STOEP OF GROOTE SCHUUR. friend Cecil Rhodes. This now forms the summer headquarters of Their Excellencies Lord and Lady Gladstone. Now our road lies through Wynberg, Kenilworth, Claremont, and Rosebank, all beautiful residential quarters, also the toll- gate. There are many of these relics of old times in the Colony, and for a motor they charge 2d. or 3d. a wheel. When we finished our drive, arriving at the Mount Nelson Hotel for luncheon, we talked it over, and found that though we were all wide- world rovers, we unanimously decided that this had been one of the most delightful drives we had ever taken. The cost of our car was only £2. DON'TS BY " IMP" Don't miss this drive whatever you do. 185 CHAPTER XXVIII Rob ben Island THE " Imp of Travel " has always whispered to me, " We should visit Robben Island." I say, " But why go to a place whose whole population consists of convicts, lunatics, and lepers ? ' ' Imp " scornfully asks, " Are you so spoilt with the luxury of your two weeks' stay at the Mount Nelson Hotel that you have not a thought for suffering humanity- — -that you don't want to see the painful side ? Come, be brave, life is not made up of rose leaves. Besides, your public will like to read about this isolation, which is seldom visited except under compulsion." As usual, " Imp" has its way, and I seek for means to go over the island. I am told that I must get a permit, and the authorities do not encourage visitors. Having a letter of introduction to Sir Frederick Smith, I asked his help to cross to the island. I may mention that Sir Frederick was Cape Town's former Mayor, and filled the office with such efficiency that the public would not allow him to retire for years. Through his kind influence I ob- tained my pass to visit Robben Island, and was informed that the Commissioner would himself conduct me over it. My friends at the hotel say they will have my table removed outside, also I shall be quarantined. Mr. Whitehouse sends me the following receipt : Famous Baths of Jordan. COMPLIMENTARY TICKET ISSUED TO MRS. CAMERON GOOD FOR THREE DIPS A Sure Cure for Leprosy Lazarus, Secretary. Naaman, Proprietor. " Wash and be Clean." 1 86 koblxjii Island However, I am not intimidated, and although a trifle appr hensive of what I shall sec, make preparations. I arise a1 seven. Lepers haunted my dreams all night. The selection "I a gown results in a white cotton blouse and skirt, which can be boiled, .1 white helmet, a lace veil, in case there are mosquitoes, and a huge white chiffon motor scarf. My idea was to cover mysell completely in case of necessity! I ordered a taxi, taking some sandwiches and a bottle of water, imagining I should probably eal my luncheon under a rock or in the coiner of a leprosy hospital. INSIDE LEPER CHAPEL. At 10 a.m. I took the small steamer Pieter Faure, which crosses several times a week. We take on cargo, including cases of beer and a few carcases of beef. It is a cloudy morning, Table Mountain wearing its heavy white drapery. There are about ten other passengers. I wonder who they are, for most of them are speaking Dutch. Already carcases of beef, sewn in canvas, through which bones and legs protrude, are being covered by flies, and exhaling an aroma far from pleasant. I don't know where " Imp " will eventually lead me, but lie certainly suggests extraordinary surroundings. We glide from the jetty. The boat seems quite clean, although all the lunatics, lepers, and convicts vovage in it. Guarded, of ,S; A Woman's Winter in Africa course. The splendid W aimer Castle, looking most inviting, is passed. A friend sails home on her to-day — I feel most envious. When shall I see home again ? It is February the fifth, and H.M.S. New Zealand, after receiving unlimited hospitality and creating sad havoc with young hearts at Cape Town, leaves for Durban. A slight swell begins, and all the miscellaneous people immediately begin to feel ill. To-day the sea is a calm grey, but when winds blow over the seven miles of open water it must be terrible. An old woman with bleary eyes holds a handkerchief — resem- bling a towel — tightly to her mouth. I watch her fascinated, although I hate it. I cannot keep my eyes from her, wondering what would happen if she relaxed her hold. During the forty minutes of sea rioting I take a look at my fellow-voyagers. The lady beside me has on a coarse blanket coat ; her straw hat is trimmed with seedy chiffon, and a faded pink rose nestles at the side. Loose straggling hair is confined by a comb, on which glass " diamonds " and brass filigree spread disillusioned splendour. She has a child with her of obviously mixed breed, which I fancy shows the first outbreak of that dreaded disease leprosy. She is a fond mother, and carefully covers the child with a corner of her coat. Facing me was another little girl with fair hair, which, reposing in tight braids all night, has now the desired crimpy appearance passing for beauty. Triumphantly she wears a straw hat, upon the band of which is marked a blatant " Victory." Further, another girl holds her head and looks into the sea. She wears a big, dirty hat, and long pins sticking out show several inches of dangerous nakedness. Lines of birds in single file fly over the water. The old woman who gripped the handkerchief has succumbed — it is a real attack, and I must turn and endeavour not to see her ! I face the piled- up cases of beer on deck. My thoughts wander to people who have traversed this water — convicts condemned to years of hard labour, lepers stricken by Fate and isolated from their fellow- creatures. The lunatics are perhaps the happiest, for they do not realize the curse which is upon them. They imagine them- selves the most wonderful people, reigning as kings and queens quite contentedly. Before long the island showed itself. I gazed with the greatest curiosity, and mentally pictured a thousand terrible scenes. 1 88 Robben Island The strainer stopped, people gathered their po ions, and I took camera, handbag, sunshade, and umbrella. Also the Lasl Daily Telegraph," and my lunch, dune up in a paper pan i I It is always darkest just before dawn ; I felt particularly lonely. Table Mountain appeared attractive in the distance; I thoughl of my friends at the hotel who would be thinking of me. "An you Mrs. Cameron? " asked a voice. ' Yes," I answered. 'The Commissioner has sent a boat for you." Thereupon 1 blessed Sii Frederick Smith. I felt it was beyond the dreams of possibility to have someone cognizant of me over here. I went to the deck, where the boat was rocking. Someone held the luncheon parcel, two hands were extended. I jumped. Bravo ! I landed inside. With a few pulls of the oars we arrived at the jetty, where one had only to get on to the step, mount, show one's pass, and walk up a pier, at the end of which the Commissioner, Mr. Brande, extended a welcoming hand and told me that his wife was waiting to receive me at their home. The first glimpse Robben Island presents is a sandy stretch without much shade, a white lighthouse towering sentinel over all ; but as you proceed you find quite a lot of shade. The manatoka hedges do very well, and many trees abound. Mr. Brande showed hundreds of these planted recently, and in time there will be ample protection from the sun. The island is extremely healthy, with a sea breeze continually fanning it. If not dedicated to the afflicted it would probably have become a summer resort for Cape Town. Robben Island was first heard of in 1591 by a sea captain named Raymond, who set sail from Plymouth on April 10th of the same year. He was commander of three vessels, and upon landing at the island found it uninhabited, with the exception of numerous seals and penguins. The island is about two miles long by one and a half wide ; it has also afforded hospitality to several Kaffir chiefs. One of the most renowned was Linchwe, who, in endeavouring to escape, was drowned, not being able to swim the seven miles to the mainland. I asked Mr. Brande how many people he had under his charge, and he answered, " We have 600 lepers, 500 lunatics, 120 convicts, and these with officials, clergy, doctors, and attendants, amount to about 1700 in all." I next had the pleasure of being introduced to Mrs. Brande, 180 A Woman's Winter in Africa and was shown over their very nice residence. They were both young, bronzed, and with amiability written on their faces; they looked so healthy and cheerful I began to feel I had made some mistake and got to the wrong island ! Surely this could not be the dread abode of suffering humanity. Mrs. Brande said we must hurry, because there was much to see and our carriage was waiting. We passed from the garden and found a tine pair of mules harnessed to a double-seated dogcart. Mrs. Brande and I mounted the front seat, while the Commissioner took the back. They told me that the harness and cart were both manu- factured by convicts. A black man held the mules — he was a harmless lunatic. It was all indeed strange to me ! Off we started down Main Street, which was sandy with white dust. On one side a trolley track is laid, and the only means of getting about is in this way, as at Beira, but here one is pushed by convicts. To the left a fine substantial erection of stone, with a verandah, comes into view, and I am informed this is the Club for officials and residents — non-lepers, naturally. Inside are billiard, card, reading, and sitting-rooms, quite up-to-date. The view of the mainland is fine. Table Mountain and Lion's Head stand out magnificently against clear blue sky- Streets are well laid out, and we pass some small corrugated-iron houses with verandahs. Mrs. Brande said, "Those houses are for the lepers' visitors." Lepers' visitors ? " I exclaim. ' Do the authorities allow that ? The Commissioner replied, a smile in his kindly eyes, " Oh, yes; if they have behaved well and there are no bad marks against them they can ask for one of these houses, and members of their family can visit them for two weeks." Certainlv it is very charitable of the Government ! There are many churches, and three resident clergymen. These churches include a Roman Catholic, a Dutch Reformed, and several English Protestant. One hand- some edifice dates from 1841. Many men were working in the fields — all lepers, but seemingly quite happy. They bow, smile, and raise their hats as we drive by. Genial Mr. Brande had a word tor each, and called them by their Christian names. Along the beach several seats were placed, and on these leper women were enjoying the air. They dressed cleanly and well with cotton blouses and dark serge or mohair skirts. They have a dressmaking establishment which is run by leper women. Two 190 Robben [sland new dresses and a special one fen Sundays are allowed for the year. This arrangement is for the women who are np1 very badly afflicted. The Lepers arc of all shades of brown, and of mixed ra< e. I wonder it the loathsome disease comes from this mingling of blood ! It might be possible. There were only three European women sufferers. Two of these were Dutch, and the other, although white, an alien of some sort. It seems strange that since the days of Lazarus scientific research has made but little progress over this curse. The theorj ROBBEN ISLAM) SETTLEMENT. that leprosy comes from eating salted fish, which they said gave Norway people the malady, has long since been proved wrong. Leprosy is frequent with the Barotse natives, and they have never eaten salt risk. I went into the Leper Church. It is a small, clean sanctuary, with bright pictures on the walls, a nice altar, and many benches. Near the entrance are two large scriptural verses in Dutch.. Mr. Engleheart is the chaplain. I did not meet him, as he was absent, but heard wonderful accounts of his gocd work. How pathetic it must be to preach to such an assemblage ! I should think patience and an all-inspiring faith would constitute the text 191 A Woman's Winter in Africa of the sermons. Outside a trellis of morning glories was doing its utmost to make the place cheerful. ' I think," said Mr. Brande, " if your nerves are strong you had better see the worst cases first. Do you insist on seeing these patients ? " " Yes," I replied. ' I am quite prepared to see everything." Our first stop was the negro hospital. We entered the part assigned to the worst cases. It was a long ward, with, I should say, twenty-four beds. The walls are high and lathed ; large windows are open and the air quite fresh, but naturally the odour of antiseptics is noticeable. Mr. Brande and I paused at the first bedside, that of a negro, whom he called by name and asked how his foot was. The wizened mouth worked, then in gasps came the words, " Foot bad, sir." This poor man had lost one leg, and now the doctors must again operate to take out another section of decayed bone. The other foot of this poor diseased wretch has lost all its toes, and both his hands are fingerless. The sight is not so appalling as one might imagine. I had ex- pected to see -white sores. After the joints have been healed the skin appears smooth and shiny, resembling a new potato. It is incredible what these stricken folk can do without hands and feet. It struck me that instead of inflicting more pain upon this poor old creature to remove a few inches of rotting bone, it would be more humane to give him a soothing potion and release his agonized souk A lethal chamber would indeed be a blessing to these accursed bodies ! And yet Mr. Brande tells me that they do not want to die, resisting death with all their strength. They are allowed almost everything to eat, and can ask for a chop or beefsteak for their breakfast. Drinkables must have the doctor's signature before being obtained. The worst cases lie on single, iron bedsteads, with two or three ample pillows ; their sheets and white counterpanes clean, floors and wooden chairs being all well scrubbed. Lepers who can do work like washing and nursing earn as much as £3 10s. a month, but in many cases they scrub solely with their maimed stumps. There is a shop where they spend money on anything they fancy. We continue, pausing by the side of a man who has lost his eyes and other portions of his body. He is quite helpless. One of the terrors of leprosy is that it often brings blindness. I asked 192 Robben [sland a sufferer how he felt the first symptom of his disease ; he told m< he had a severe cold, (hen his lace bones began to enlargi -and he was a leper. What a horrible discovery it must have been ! A cold shiver creeps over me. Instinctively I realize a horrible presence is near. Thump, thump! 1 hear closer and closer. Turn- ing round quickly, I see a poor leper bringing water to one more afflicted than himself. The thump, thump is caused by the stump of the bone as it beats along the wooden floor. Mercifully these lepers have no feeling in afflicted parts. They say a lepei MAIN STREET, ROBBEN ISLAND. can stick his limb into tire and feel nothing. Many of these are in the last stages of consumption. This often goes with leprosv. After passing the ward of misery, where these people could not have been cared for better, I next inspected the day-room, for recreation, with puzzles and games, when they are able to use them. A modern operating-room had everything in proper con- dition. All the patients salute, and, wishing them a cheerful good day, we pass from the carbolic-laden atmosphere. The bandaging-room proved interesting, here being yards of antiseptic cotton in constant demand. The white attendants are of good class. I asked the Commissioner if it was not difficult to procure them, but he said plenty had been found up to the N 193 A Woman's Winter in Africa present. They are paid good wages and have much time for recreation. In the operating-room the table is of thick plate glass, and easily kept in hygienic condition. One Boer leper stops Mr. Brande and talks — he is working with the trees in the open ; except for curious pinkish rings on his cheek-bones, one would not take him for a leper. A white man named Nicholson we pass, and my conductor asks him how he is, and is answered that he is quite cheerful now. This man was lunatic besides being a leper. Formerly he occupied a cell, but having mentally improved was allowed to do a little farming. The Government have experimental vegetable gardens on the island, where the weak-minded lepers work ; raising quantities of chickens, and selling many dozens of eggs. I should not fancy these ! We look into the recreation hall, where a few months ago an interesting exhibition was held, every article sold being the work of male or female patients. Lord and Lady Glad- stone honoured this exhibition with their presence, and were so interested in the efficient way in which the community was con- ducted they remained the entire day. One leper woman, a half- caste, won the first prize for sewing. Considering she managed her sewing-machine with a bandaged hand and only three fingers, it may be considered quite wonderful. Her prize, she proudly told me, was ios. ' Now," said the Commissioner, " you must see a really horrible sight, and you are the first woman who has been allowed to do so. You are not afraid ? " ' Oh, no, certainly not ; I have come to see everything." I found a long stone structure built in a semicircle and tightly enclosed by barbed wire. There is a small sandy space for sitting about in, a few stunted bushes, and a short verandah. This ward is for men who are both lunatics and lepers — as if they were not enough cursed by one complaint ! Here it was indeed terrify- ing, and one felt that some patient might spring upon one's back like a tiger. The mild inmates were sitting chattering, some sing-songing, others mumbling like disturbed monkeys. It was awful to see these outcasts sitting with a devil inhabiting every brain. Here again I found the same cleanliness. The dormitory had a few 194 Robben Island chromos hung high, close to the ceiling, in case the mad people might eat (hem, or use them for attacking cadi other. One dreadful creature had just had an epileptic lit, and lay Oil the floor moaning and groaning. The epileptics haw theii mattresses on the floor. One man has a cell without any fur- niture, for he destroys everything breakable. All these cells for desperates have a deep slit in the door, through which the attendant can watch the inmate. Low in the door is an aperture in which the night-watchman can"" place his lamp and illuminate the cubicle. CHURCH FOR THE SUFFERERS. I was shown some padded cells, small narrow places, padded to the depth of five inches. Certainly no one could do much damage here. The Commissioner pointed out a passive-looking man, saying he was a splendid barometer, for just before it is going to rain he begins shouting in frenzy, and cannot be stopped until the rain descends, when he again becomes quiescent. In the dining-room everything was spotless; a red-and-white tablecloth was on the table. Books made of linen, on which bright pictures have been pasted, also a gramophone to take the attention of the peculiar-minded from indulging in their own music, com- pleted the ward. 195 A Woman's Winter in Africa Quite close, but not staring them in the face, was the Leper Cemetery ; but really no one could desire to prolong the lives of a batch of lunatic lepers. Now we cross to the women's quarters, encountering a gang of convicts who have been working in the fields. They halt as they pass through the gate of their compound, and a guard searches them for knives or tobacco. It seemed rather pitiful to see them halt, throwing up their hands while they were being examined. Many had terrible hang-dog faces, looking as if they would enjoy any fiendish crime. Most of them have committed murder. . One queer creature obviously thought he was an aeroplane by the manner in which he gesticulated, swinging his arms as though he were attempting to fly. We next entered the dress- making department ; this was in charge of a white woman, a non-leper. She showed us patterns, saying there was nothing she loved like fashion plates. There were sewing-machines, leper women working them, and one girl, Rosie, laughed very much— her hands ended in two stumps, but she turned out cotton blouses as if Nature had not cursed her. We inspect the dresses, which are of good quality, in mohair and serge, while white flannel petticoats looked cosy. There are large bales of all sorts of material on the shelves. Another terrible thump — thump ! This time it is a woman whose legs have been sawn off nearly to the knee. She pounds across the corridor. She is most uncannv. Her nose is sunk into her face, which is dis- torted from all semblance of humanity. I cannot look at her, she is too sickening. I silently send up an appeal to God, asking, ' Why can't she die ? ' If the lepers work well and have no marks against them they can live by themselves, or have a larger room with perhaps only two occupants. I forgot to mention that as we drove past one man appeared to be kneeling, but this was not so. His legs had been taken off almost to his trunk. He certainly was a terrible sight ! The general shop caught one's fancy ; one wondered what would be their taste, and how these people who gained mcney in such trying circumstances would spend it. Sweets, the nurse in charge told me, were liked, and perfume was in great demand. Also ribbons of gay colouring ; biscuits and tinned meat, although they are allowed 13 ounces of meat for dinner and 4 ounces at breakfast. 196 NATIVE WOMAN CARRYING TWINS. A Woman's Winter in Africa One leper told the Commissioner that he would like some grapes, Mr. Brande promised them that da}'. Another request by a woman who had only two fingers left was that they would get her a piano. However, this desire was not granted ! But there are several pianos, in different buildings. Nurse Stafford, with a sweet face, and wearing an immaculate tan-and-white uniform, took us in charge. We visited the steam laundry, and the store-rooms. The bread, I was glad to know, is made by bakers who are entirely healthy. In one of the wash-rooms the leper women were rubbing their clothes on stones and rinsing them, although they had no fingers. Ward 5, which is a long corridor with about thirty-five beds, with plenty of space between them, looked most comfortable. Each was covered with a white, red-bordered spread. Here there were some terrible specimens of women lepers. One old crone wept in a corner. Mrs. Brande tried to talk to her, but could not understand what she said. A black girl had an enormous growth protruding from her mouth. Her eyes receded into a horrible countenance. Noses, eyes, and mouths suffer most in affected cases. Another had bones protruding through her cheeks. This ward was for coloured women of every shade of yellow, brown, and ebony. Three old ones sat on the floor laughing, while one mumbled, " Old womans can't do nothing." There are tables scattered about, large wicker chairs, and every- thing as clean and comfortable as possible. Each patient has a private bureau, a shelf wardrobe, and a miscellaneous collection of things — little bits of something, a china cat, photographs of their family, some of which hang over their beds, and all the treasured idols of their former life. Nurse Stafford talked cheer- fully to them all and the}' appeared happy. We visited the tin house of Maggie. She is rather a celebrity here, having a little money. She is a brown girl of about twenty. A peculiarity about Maggie is that she is engaged. Her intended, who was paying her a visit at the time, was also celebrated — ■ being a Jew leper, and brought from the London Hospital, where he had been for seven years. He was very proud of the fact that H.M. Queen Alexandra had paused by his bed on one of her charitable visits. The man's name is Turog. He did not show leprosy so terribly as others, only the rings and swelling about the cheeks. He is under arrest at present as 198 Robberi Island he ran away, and tried to board a steamer and escape. The lepers have every attention that can be shown to them, but still they grumble, their one desire seeming to be to get back to the world, so circulating their foul disease. Of course, Maggie and Turog will not be allowed to marry, but as long as they care to remain in the engaged state, the authorities permit it. The one great and difficult problem among the lepers is thai of sex. One would suppose these unclean people would have no desire to perpetuate their race, thus bringing more suffering into the world, but this is not the case. There are very strict laws dealing with people misbehaving themselves, their passes to wTander about the island being cancelled for a year, while other punishments are also meted out. The authorities are ever on the alert to investigate and stop these wretched people from cohabita- tion, but with all their vigilance sometimes a child is born ! When this happens the child is sent away, and carefully watched for the development of the dread illness. There are several streets of " hokkies." These are small tin shanties, each one being numbered. Many of the lepers prefer to live here in these hot cubicles rather than in the long, cool wards. They fancy they have more liberty in these "hokkies," and draw their own rations from the stores and cook their meals. Next I met Sister Cicely. She had a sweet face, and belongs to the Sisters of the English Church. The Order has its head- quarters near St. Albans— the All Saints' Community. These Sisters do splendid work with child lepers. At present they have twenty children under their care, teaching them to be useful as far as their infirmities permit. Sister Cicely told me that it had never been known for a child to be born a leper. They had a case of four years, also one of six. One little sufferer about ten was very anxious I should see her doll, which had been a Christmas present. They have many donations sent them. Last Christmas Lady Smith, who has been Mayoress for some years, wife of Sir Frederick, generously sent two hundred and fifty presents. These Mrs. Brande distributed to the lepers from a large Christmas tree. One little girl, Susie, had only slight marks of the leprosy. How cruel it seems that as this child grows to womanhood the horror will keep pace with her age. Why should this child be 199 A Woman's Winter in Africa cursed ? We are told the Creator is merciful, and so I pray He will soon release Susie. I happened to have in my bag a card from H.M. Queen Alexandra, written by the Honourable Charlotte Knollys, stating that my novel, "A Durbar Bride," had been graciously accepted by Her Majesty. I asked the children if they would like to see it. Their eyes opened to an alarming extent as they unanimously declared " Yes." I fished in my bag and produced the precious document. All wanted to touch it. 'Oh, did Queen Alexandra really write this ? ' I had to explain that Queen Alexandra had not actually penned the lines, but commanded I should receive her gracious acknowledgment. Susie asked if she might hold the card, and she kissed the Royal signature, with its small black crown, dated Sandringham. This passed through each child leper's hand —many embracing it ; some, however, too awed, gazed in wonder and reverence on the bit of Royal pasteboard. One child was busy making paper screens, some of which were quite pretty. This girl had quite a collection of toys, one of her treasures being a photograph of our Princess Mary, cut from an illustrated paper, and framed over her bed. When I told her I had seen Princess Mary, and how pretty she was, she sighed and looked enviously at me. The Sister said she knew one leper woman of eighty. We inspected all the wards, dining-rooms, and linen stores for boys and girls. Everywhere I found the surroundings clean and com- fortable. Cheering words were spoken to the afflicted by the Commissioner, his wife, sisters, nurses, and attendants ; in the majority of cases the patients appeared happy. If one must have leprosy I am sure this retreat is the best place to seek the seclusion which is imperative. Mr. Brande said we were already late for luncheon, so we climbed into the dogcart and drove to his charming home. After lunch my hosts toured me all round the island. On one side the beach is very pretty, with white breakers murmuring over brown rocks. Here were several tents and shelters, also some lepers enjoying the simple life by the sea. A beautiful view of Table Mountain and Cape Town is obtained. I am told that in certain seasons the island is a mass of arum lilies. Postcards illustrate this fact. I halted, and we all climbed to the top of Robben Island Light- 200 Robberi Island house; a very useful light this is, for many wrecks have occurred here. One can see its beacon for quite eighteen miles a1 sea. This stands about sixty feet high. A wondrous view spreads out, bul the only exit consists of a hole which a very fat person would not be able to squeeze through. At four o'clock I caught mv strainer, having spent a mosl profitable day. I came in dread to Leper Island, but departed feeling that under the organization of the present authorities nothing further could be done for these unfortunate people. Even " Imp " was satisfied with its experience. » My grateful compliments to Commissioner and Mrs. Everard Brande for their kind hospitality in allowing me to see everything connected with their admirable administration. 20 1 CHAPTER XXIX Lunch on the " Tabor a " THROUGH the kindness of my friend H.E. Fran Schnee, I was invited as Captain Doherr's guest to a luncheon party on the Tabor a, which at present is the largest and finest ship of the D. O.-A. Linie, although I was told another with more improve- SWIMMING BATH, S.S. TABORA. ments was being built. I can scarcely credit this ; but the fact remains. The Tabora is sister ship to the General, and similar in nearly every way. Her palm hall is a little larger, and she has a gymnasium. You may ride an electric horse, or if that does not sufficiently jolt you, there is the long, slow, hobbledehoy tread of the 202 Lunch on the " Tabora camel to tour ones sluggish nerves, lie down and have spinal massage. song Failing thai even, you may ( )nc is reminded oi the old 1 dreamt I dwell in marble halls " when our is a passenger on these ships, but the dream is completely realized, Eor all the walls arc marble lined. I cannot imagine a more charming trip Eor anyone obliged to winter in a warm climate than to take either of tins' floating luxurious Savoys and have a trip around Africa. These ships call only at large places like Dur- ban, Beira, Dar-es-Salaam, Zanzibar, Mombasa, and Tanga. I took some of the smaller ones, as I desired to see strange, unfrequented parts. For an invalid to take the route I have described I am sure would be most enjoyable ; also, it is not at all expensive — far cheaper than staying at home. Besides, think of the variety of scenery combined with the same life as in an expensive hotel, and the education of broadening one's mind by the interchange of thoughts and experiences with people whom we do not con- tinually meet in our own narrow circle at home. These ships, afterleaving Cape Town, go home immediately, only calling at Las Palmas. I wished to write a book of the entire coast of Africa, as I had already done on South America ; and knowing that few women journey up the West Coast, I decided to brave discomfort if I had to, and investigate. I can honestly say my voyage round the East Coast has been one of great enjoy- ment everywhere — especially on the German steamers, where I have been shown every kindness and courtesy. Our luncheon party included Her Excellency Frau Schnee, Mr. and Mrs. Weinlig, Dr. and Mrs. Peterson ; and a merry time we had. The cuisine excelled itself. One thing I must admit. 203 H.E. FRAU SCHXEE, CAPTAIN DOHERR, AND MRS. WEINLIG. A Woman's Winter in Africa Travelling on the German ships spoils one, for they are the acme of luxurious comfort. After lunch we adjourned to the gymnasium to ride its camels and horses. Captain Doherr, who is very popular, showed us his sitting-room. The Duke and Duchess of Connaught have honoured him with large signed photographs. A very lovely one of the Duchesse d'Aosta is on his writing-desk. He also handed me a photograph which has been reproduced all over the world— that of himself and Theodore Roosevelt, with the American flag for a background. Both Her Excellency and myself expressed the wish that we were homeward bound on the Tabora. I especially. If only my West Coast voyage were over, and I returning ! One hears such dreadful tilings about hotels, climate, fevers, and other dismal prospects. On reaching Mount Nelson Hotel, fascinating Table Mountain was concealed in a floating vapouresque mist, white and soft as an angel's wing. This was ever dropping over the precipice of bleak stone, giving the effect of Victoria Falls, only in this case it was a cloud which was dashed to death. 204 CHAPTER XXX Rhodes Memorial MY friend and I took the train for Rondebosch. One can go by tram as well, and I have also motored out, which is more pleasant. I never saw a place where one really needed a motor more than Cape Town, because the environs are so scatterc d, rendering distances enormous. After passing through business quarters and uninteresting suburbs one reaches Mobray and Rose- *'* .„..-.•;, . ■ . " CECIL RHODES' RESIDENCE. bank, with their well-kept streets and pretty homes. We took a victoria, as H.E. Frau Schnee wished to leave cards atWestbrooke, the present official residence of Lord and Lady Gladstone. We traversed the lovely pine and oak avenues, casting a lingering look at Groote Schuur, which has not only modern history attached to it, but ancient as well, being mentioned in Van Riebeck's A Woman's Winter in Africa Journal. Afternoon sun blazed into the lovely garden as though to wake the blooms from their siesta. We had made arrangements with our coachman to drive us to the memorial of Cecil Rhodes, which was unveiled about a year ago. On we went, through beautiful forests. At one side are the grounds set apart for the animals. Queer birds stalk under the trees, and hundreds of squirrels bound across our path or sit en their haunches, nibbling acorns, which fall in golden showers. Across our road dart a family of zebras — father, mother, and baby. On our return, however, the keeper obviously had missed them, and their wanderings were curtailed by a barbed-wire fence. The memorial is situated at the foot of the mountain, on the spot Cecil Rhodes loved. Here he would sit, never tired of watching that wonderful panorama of mountain, plain, lake, sea, and towns spread in a gigantic semicircle. The design of the memorial is most noble and dignified. It is Grecian, with Corin- thian columns of white granite, recalling Egyptian temples of the Phoenician period. Framed in a rocky background, wreathed in oaks and pines, it will ever remain a fitting tribute to the memory of a great man. Wonderfully imposing ! Still, his simple grave on the Matcppo Hills, fashioned by Nature, is to me far grander than this expensive testimonial erected in his honour. One climbs about fifty steps, which at intervals are surmounted by huge guarding lions of bronze — four on either side. On approaching the centre of the open temple, a gigantic bust of Cecil Rhodes gazes across the landscape. His head rests upon his hand, his pose is one of deep reflection ; but there is a stern, grim, determined expression on his face which the one in the Botanical Gardens does not possess, nor yet the statue in the main street of Bulawavo. As one descends the steps one is struck with the magnificent view. At the foot of the memorial stands the splendid world-renowned figure of ' Physical Energy," the work of G. P. Watts, representing the colossal figure of a man, nude, with immense muscles and perfect strength, on horseback. This noble piece of work Cecil Rhodes much admired. As my stay in Cape Town was limited to a little over two weeks, I had no time to visit many of the places I should like to have done. The walks over the mountains are superb. Mr. Haygood, the kindly and genial American Vice-Consul, informed me that while 206 Rhodes Memorial I was here he had just completed his hundredth climb over Table Mountain. There is no hick of holds, pensions, and boarding- houses. One might describe them as being as thick as black- berries! Mount Nelson Hotel has no rival. The Grand Hotel, near Adderley Street, is much frequented", and looked quite a comfortable abode. I was there several times. The International I did not care for ; it had a dusty, woebegone air. The I adarga is a small private hotel; and Kingsfold was very well kept, with nice grounds, and spotlessly clean. I considered it mo I attractive. At the foot of Government Avenue begins Cape Town's greal shopping street, with handsome shops where every commodity can be bought. Magnificent buildings — the Standard Bank, Post Office, and many others — make Adderley Street a model. This street has not a monopoly, however, for St. George's Street, Darling Street, Queen Victoria Street, and Long Street are noted business quarters. There are many curio shops, where ostrich feathers can be bought ; also silver leaves from the celebrated trees around Cape Town, on which one can write names. Thev are woven into tablecloths, and make pleasing souvenirs. Kaffir work abounds, mostly spears, weapons, and beadwork. I bar- gained for and obtained an elephant's ear, dried and polished. I anticipate having it mounted as a table for serving coffee. As my house already contains many barbaric specimens, this enormous ear will not be out of place. I can conscientiously recommend L. Moss, of Plein Street, as an honest, reliable dealer. His stock of oddities includes many fr< m New Zealand and Australia. Cape Town is well supplied with churches, from the Anglican Cathedral to the Dutch Reformed Church — which is spoken of as the Westminster Abbey of South Africa, inasmuch as beneath its flooring are buried the remains of many of the old Dutch Governors. This church dates from the seventeenth century. The Wesleyan Methodist is a handsome edifice, costing £15 ,000, with seating ca paci t y f< >r a thousand people. The Catholic Church, the Jewish Synagogue, the German Lutheran, the Mohammedan Mosque — every creed is duly and respectfully ministered to ; even the Malays, of whom there is a large com- munity, have a mosque, whose minarets and cupola draw especial attention. I find it difficult to describe Cape Town — it is so like any large, 207 A Woman's Winter in Africa up-to-date city. Everything obtainable in a big metropolis can be obtained in this picturesquely situated capital. All should visit the Museum — a long, stone building on the left side of the Avenue, going down. Upon entering I was intensely touched to see the old " Post Office " stones in the hall. These recall the date 1600, when letters were indeed a rarity. One can imagine the excitement when news arrived from beloved relatives in far-off lands. It was the custom for the captains to place their letters under these stones when outward bound. The homeward- bound ship would find them and carry them to their destina- tion. Some of the stones are inscribed in English, Dutch, Danish, . Wk RHODES MEMORIAL. WATTS STATUE "PHYSICAL ENERGY. and French ; the letters are nearly obliterated, but on one you can read " 1614." Another ran as follows: "This will arrive September 1st, from Surat, depart the ditto, 1628. Chris. Browne, Commander." In the Museum are specimens of men and women aborigines of the Hottentot and Bushmen races ; also some reck paint- ings. The figures were very well done in a reddish plaster ; the women had in most cases tremendous hip development, with very small eyes and woolly heads. I next passed on to a group of Dutch furniture, and a chair in which a Governor died in 1729. There was some good Delft china, and ancient Bohemian glass, inscribed with the crest of the St. Helena Regiment. There 208 Rhodes Memorial are innumerable heads of big game of every variety. In i thei room is a mineral and geological assortment; in fact, one finds almost everything that is of interest to the country. Simonstown, Muizenburg, possess splendid bathing beaches — • at the latter Cecil Rhodes breathed his hist. Kalk Bay and St. James should also be visited by every traveller. An old friend whom one sees too little of on the East Coast, Thomas Cook and Son, is again encountered at Cape Town. One has a feeling of confidence in whatever part of the world this useful company has an office. We can not only command them to give money if we travel with their notes, which is a sale way to do ; but also find out things, and send extra baggage and curios home. They are always ready and willing to help everyone in every way. " Long live Thomas Cook and Son ! " says " Imp." With sorrow I bid good-bye to the many good friends I leave in Cape Town, and I wish to thank them heartily for their courtesy and kindness on all occasions, especially Her Excellency Frau Sclmee, Sir Frederick Smith, Mr. and Mrs. Weinlig, Dr. and Mrs. Peterson, Mr. Haygood. American Vice-Consul, and Mr. and Mrs. Whitehouse. " Imp " suggests that the band should play " Auld Lang Syne." O 209 CHAPTER XXXI West Coast and Port NoLloth IN the evening, about nine o'clock, I make the acquaintance of Frieda Woermann, one of the babies of the mighty Wcermann family. Her tonnage is only about 3000, and she certainly looks small. She is to conduct me to Port Nolloth, Liiederitzbucht, and Swakopmund. Frieda is very old-fashioned, but I have a roomy cabin, and find Captain Wolf most genial. At daybreak we sailed, and in the morning my belongings were flying about in a pre- cipitate manner. I sprang from my berth to rescue toilet bottles, for Frieda pranced up and down most recklessly ; then, being fatigued, she wculd try to roll ever, and sometimes I really thought she would accomplish it. For fifteen years I have never been sea-sick, but this morning I was not at all sure how I should be. ' I ha'e me doots," as the Scotch say ; nevertheless, I appeared at breakfast, feeling rather lonely, as I knew no one. Frieda, however, had not the satisfaction of making me ill, and now she can jump about as she likes — it won't affect me ! Port Nolloth The rollicking Frieda arrived here at 7 a.m. She makes a terrible noise, and a sort of long shiver racks her as she drops anchor. I go on deck and look two miles across the sea to a sandy stretch of land backed by a line of mountains. The shore is wrapped in mist, and there is evidently very little vegetation. 1 discern small black patches of scrub bush or salt grass, but no trees. A tall flagpole with the Union Jack is visible. The captain tells me we are fortunate, as twenty-one days out of a month they have a dense sea-fog here. To-day the sun shines brightly, the air is delicious, and as far as climate goes it is like May. My thoughts turn to England, and imagination hears wind howling and sees rain falling, as is usual with us in March, our most disagreeable month. Port Nolloth's reason for existence is that it is the port for the 210 West Coast and Port Nollotli Cape Copper Company's outpouring. These copper mines at O'okiep arc, or have been, among the richest in the world. Frieda Woermann is really the worst roller it has evei been m\ lot to meet, having quite as much motion anchored as when steaming. She loves a tumble, although arrived at the mature age of twenty-eight. We lay out here for some time in the trough of great blue rollers. To the west the sea is boundless; the same Atlantic, or Wild Sea, as the Indians called it, laps the shores of South America. Beside us, a Danish sailing ship has brought out coal and will return laden with copper. On the shore we can hear gigantic breakers thundering, and the toll of a bell rings a cautioning refrain as the waves beat its hammers. It makes me think of Filey Brig and the bell-buoy there, which Kipling has made immortal. The agent's tug comes in sight, followed by a lighter for cargo. Now there is a discussion about the difficulties of going ashore. They say that climbing over the boats will be dangerous in this heaving sea, but as this will be my only time for seeing Port Nolloth I intend to venture, although told there is nothing to see. Another ladv volunteers to go, and five of us decide to explore the white sandy land. We must wait until cargo has been dumped upon the lighter. If any of my readers attempt to travel on the West Coast, let me give them a warning. Go in the small boats at the last moment possible, because sitting a long time in the sun, and being incessantly tossed up and down by the heaving swell, is enough to make anyone ill. I was told by a captain who spent most of his life in these waters that he himself had to use the strictest care in this respect. Watching the cargo we brought, which included many vegetables and boxes of fruit, it was amusing to see a couple of them smashed ! Out rolled Cape plums and peaches, much scrambling amongst the men who unloaded the cargo following to secure these appetizing luxuries. Lucky for them the boxes proved too fragile. We have brought many water-melons, which prove a God-send to this parched land, where rain falls only about twice a year. Most of the drinking-water is brought in ships from Cape Town- that is, for the people who are particular. Others have water brought down in tanks by train firm five miles away, but it is brackish to the taste. Some say if people sank wells here they 211 A Woman's Winter in Africa would find the much-desired fluid, though others state it has been often and unsuccessfully tried. This port is one of the oldest in these parts, having remained much the same for forty years; it has over a thousand inhabitants. Our last piece of cargo to be landed was a huge case which con- tained an electric motor for the mines. The pitching lighter and bobbing sea made this a delicate piece of work. Several times the cranes groaned as they lifted their heavy burden. Up would pitch the lighter, while the sea went running by, and bang went the case against our ship ! Many efforts were made to persuade the motor to go down into the lighter's hold. However, patience won the day. The skipper turned around and smiled. ' At last ! " he said triumphantly. ' Now all to your basket," and he pointed to the well deck. We five, bending our heads, entered by the small aperture into our basket, the door was bolted, and we held on to the ropes. Whir ! whir ! grunted the crane, and we, a human cargo, hung high in the air, swung riskily out over the sea, suspended by cable, and were lowered none too softly on to the lighter. When one gets used to these baskets one does not mind them in the least. Only the first trip is rather terrifying. It is very rough going over, but after a time we arrive at a small jetty, and here climb up a sailors' ladder, which is somewhat awkward. A band of black minstrels landed at the same time from the third-class, and half the coloured brethren and sisters of the town had gathered to meet them. There was a great variety of tans, browns, and blacks. Women wore clean cotton gowns with hand- kerchiefs tied over their heads ; but the men had donned any old thing. We went along to Main Street, finding sand but little else. This sand makes hard walking, and oozes into one's shoes. The town consists of perhaps three hundred tin houses one storey high, and most of them have cheap, narrow verandahs. No trees lend their shade, but a fine invigorating sea-breeze makes the climate pleasant and equable all the year round. I saw no trams, carts, or conveyances except the railway bringing down masses of copper and the necessary water. Proceeding along the principal street, which fronts the sea, we passed some large general stores filled with the practical require- ments of the country; Royal Hotel, a small tin affair with red blinds, and further on the Commercial Hotel, looking in the same 212 HEKEROS, GERMAN SOUTH-WEST AFRICA. A Woman's Winter in Africa forlorn condition as its rival. A bandstand looms up, and Mr. Dow, the agent for our line, who has kindly consented to show us round, tells me that every Wednesday an amateur orchestra tries to cheer up the place. Three churches were seen — Catholic, Church of Scotland, and Methodist — these taking charge of souls obliged to exist here. The Officials' Club we were shown over, and it has the best quarters, with a billiard-room and library of which it is justly proud. This is provided by the Cape Copper Co. Inhabitants have tried many kinds of trees, but nothing except the manatoka bush will grow, as they have to use condensed or distilled sea-water. Whenever you see geraniums and flowers in tubs or a garden here, you have an instant respect and liking for the people who produce flowers under such trying circumstances. It has required ceaseless care and patience. I remember Mr. Clare's house especi- ally, and three others, with geraniums, petunias, and convolvulus, which have really given the best of results. This part of the West Coast is strikingly similar to the West Coast of South America ; the nitrate ports suffering the same conditions of arid sand and no vegetation. Heaped up on the jetty were hundreds of sacks of copper, and loads of the raw ore stacked near the railway tracks. By common consent we concluded we had gleaned all the information possible < f Port Nolloth, and returned to our jaunty Frieda. 214 C H A P T E R XXXII Liiederitzbucht JO 'RIEDA, as though remorseful for her past behaviour, has made up her mind to show what a good child she can be if she wishes. She dropped her anchor very quietly this morning, and tried not to disturb the lightest sleeper. It's a lovely day, with the sapphire sea utterly calm — even Frieda is steady. I had always heard that Liiederitzbucht, which is the German South- West port for the extensive diamond shores, was a terribly ugly place, all sand and no vegetation. I go on deck and am agreeably surprised. Certainly it is barren, for not a tree or ^n0WSMKl|^^^^^^ti&i MISSIONARY STATION, I.UEDERITZBUCIIT. greenery of any kind raises its head ; but the formation of brown- grey rocks is picturesque, and hills and valleys surrounded by a border of sea not at all unsightly. Many of the houses are well- built, comfortable homes. As the ship swings round the nearest buildings one sees are a good-sized church and the clergyman's house. Missionaries certainly deserve every praise for the good work they are achieving. Dominating on a hill stands the large cathedral, and close by the splendid offices of the Deutsche Diamanten Gesellschaft. A cool breeze blows from the north, but I should think that during 2K A Woman's Winter in Africa summer months — December, January, and February — the heat would be terribly trying, as there is no shade of any kind. In the spring of 1884 Herr Liiederitz, coming from Bremen, discovered this shadeless shore and the port which now bears his name. Another German ship, the Nautilus, was sent out the following autumn, and the flag was hoisted on a promontory which they christened Nautilus Hill. At that time no one thought of diamonds in connection with Gross Nama Land, however; some years after- wards they were to figure as the staple industry, export, and real wealth of the place. I have an invitation from a lady and her husband to visit them this afternoon, and they will show me Luederitzbucht. To- morrow at 7 a.m. Herr Kreplin, the Mayor, has most kindly offered to take me over the diamond fields. The ship stays here two days, so I have decided to remain on board this morning and rest. It is very pleasant to have the quiet, and decks to oneself to roam about at will, and watch strange cargoes unloaded. A tug comes alongside, her tanks to be filled with water which we have brought from Cape Town. There is no water at this port, all has to be condensed or brought from the Cape. About forty horses and mules have been sent up from Cape Town for officers and police. They endured plenty of movement along the coast, and must be relieved to vacate their narrow stalls. I watched them being landed, and this process was managed in a most sensible manner. Horses were led into open boxes as high as their bodies, their heads tied, and swung over and down on to a sort of heavy raft. They were intelligent enough to realize that care was being taken of them, so there was no plunging. At last they are all successfully disposed of, a tug takes possession, and off the}7 go to terra firma. Not so with a number of pigs ! They protested wrathfully they would not enter the pens. Shrill shrieks rang out in the clear atmosphere, and when the loaders assisted them by their hind legs, their indignant anger knew no bounds. However, they had to go and it was amusing to watch them. No cruelty was offered, even to the swine, but I have witnessed the discharging of live stock in South America where there was needless brutality. We had brought many geese, ducks, and poultry for breeding purposes for farms up-country and the ordinary market. A large consignment of Ovamboland natives came with us in the fo'castle. 216 Ltiederitzbucht They have a tug for themselves, and arc proceeding to the diamond fields. Another boat passes filled with black people who have been work- ing there and made money. Now they arc homeward bound on a holiday. They earn good wages, and no doubt feel rich. Their garments could even outrival Joseph's coat of many colours. Some are wearing the throw n-away caps of officers, and their tin boxes are painted in bright red and green. They have banjos and harmoniums on which they make music, grin, wave hands, and pass on. We have many visitors for breakfast this morning — the agent, friends of the Captain, and passengers. Even on this small ship the food is ample and most excellent, Captain Wolf being a LUEDERITZBUCHT. connoisseur. I have often heard people declare, " I can't endure the food on German boats, it's too rich." That remark I cannot understand, because on all the ships in which I have travelled during this long voyage, including the Adolph Wocrnwnn, the General (one of their finest and newest liners), the Markgraff, of the Bombay service, and our Frieda Woermann, which only claims to be a cargo cruiser, the food has been all that could be desired. For those who like perfectly plain food there is always a large variety. In the morning — for I have not time to go through every meal — you have fruit, porridge, English kippers, eggs cooked in any way, plain ham and eggs or bacon, a chop or a beefsteak. This choice could certainly not be classified as rich food. On the other hand, if one does not relish the sausages favoured by the Germans, 217 A Woman's Winter in Africa one is not pressed to eat them. On every menu you can always choose plain fare if you wish. As regards drinkables, beer, which is brought out from Germany, is noted for its purity and the perfectly iced temperature in which it is kept. The waters and wines are sensibly selected, but the ordinary red and white wines of France, Germany, Portugal, and Cape Colony are inexpensive. Finer vintages can be had if desired. This afternoon I went ashore in the launch, and upon landing found the most conspicuous building the Woermann Linie offices, one of the first erected at Luederitzbucht. The German law does not allow buildings of corrugated iron except as sheds or working premises ; therefore these colonial towns present a more spick-and-span appearance than the monstrosities in tin which elsewhere are familiar eyesores. I pick my way across what I presume is the main thoroughfare of the town. Sand is the feature, and walking unpleasant ; through the principal streets— and there are few of them — trolley lines are luederitzbucht shops. laid> though these are only for the convey- ance of merchandise — not, as at Beira, for personal use. I think they could copy with advantage the private trolley- cars of Beira. This is the business quarter, and it is 2 p.m. The street is practically deserted, for most people are enjoying their dinner, which is usually partaken of in the middle of the day, followed by a siesta. On the doorsteps of general trading shops darky girls sit guarding the treasures. Hotel Europ Hof looks clean and habitable. I also pass the Hotel Rosemann; but am told Kapp's Hotel is considered the best. It has a peculiar entrance, giving one the idea that the original house has had many additions, including a long line of rooms at the back which form anything but an artistic prospect. The streets, as in most of the towns here, arc named after German celebrities. Houses are distinctly of a better style of archi- 218 Liiederitzbucht Inline than is seen in most places so far aua\ from the motherland. The lew people who are in the streets are well dressed, and have a prosperous air, children playing in the sand being red-cheeked and healthy. Rumour has it that Liiederitzbucht is tree from fever, and that there is very little illness of any kind. Bui the greal drawbacks are lack of water and the absence of trees and gardens. The people take infinite pains to produce something green, bringing up the soil from Cape Town, but either the atmosphere or the condensed sea-water fails to nourish them, and they soon die. Considering that this diamond town only woke from lethargic sleep in 1908, when gems were discovered, it certainly has no LUEDERITZBUCIIT. reason to be ashamed. The handsome stone church perched on the hill possesses fine stained-glass windows. One was given by the Empress, and represents H.I.M. the Emperor ; besides this there are two other churches and a couple of schools. One notices a solidly built post office, from which a dark blue flag waves, informing the inhabitants that a mail boat is about to depart. When the post is in-coming a red flag floats, telling people to come and open their letter boxes. As yet there are no letter carriers. The Bank of Africa adds beauty to the scene, as do also the offices of the Colmanskop Diamond Mining Co., Ltd., and the Town Hall — all pleasing from an architectural point of view. The Mayor, Herr Kreplin, whose position is an honorary one, has contributed a great deal of benevolent work to this head- quarters of diamond land. The tall spires of that marvellous 219 A Woman's Winter in Africa achievement the wireless telegraph keep the people in close touch with the news of the world. German South-west Africa has a splendidly organized system of telephones, which make it possible to talk with people in all parts of the country. As far as residences may be catalogued, Mr. Henning's, Mr. Muller's, the British Consul's, and Mayor Kreplin's are the best. Mr. Henning's abode was certainly a revelation to me ; I had no idea, from what I had previously heard of Luederitzbucht (" it :Trf l ]MM i jp Li THE CATHEDRAL, AND MR. HENNING S HOUSE. was only a sandbank"), that such a home existed. When I called I was shown into a spacious hall, with cosy corner, and everything thought out for comfort, substantiality, and taste. The rooms were equally good. Mrs. Henning appeared, and genially showed me over her domain. A telephone certainly did not look as if one lived in the wilds, nor a spacious and luxurious bathroom with blue and white tiles, including a porcelain tub and shower. But, alas ! my hostess told me that the water for cooking purposes and bathing was 220 Ltiederitzbucht condensed from the sea. It is held in reservoir tanks on the top of Diamond Hill and laid <>n to the houses ; for one lank of a cubic metre capacity r6s. is charged. One may well talk of the luxury of a bath ! I am not going into the interior of German South-west Africa from this port, but shall proceed to Windhnk, the capital, from Swakopmund. I was much interested in looking at sonic photo- graphs of farming in the hinterland. Certain farms at Gibeon had PRINCIPAL STREET, LVEDERITZBUCHT. wonderful tobacco plantations and vineyards. These farms range from 10,000 to 15,000 hectares. The splendid place of Baron von Wolf had multitudes of sheep grazing upon it, and some line views of the Great Fish River were seen. Herr Carl Woermann's farm is considered one of the best in the country. The train goes about 300 miles from here to Keetmanshoop, and continues its way to Windhuk. After tea Mrs. Henning and I climbed up to Diamond Hill and obtained a fine view of the land. Below a blue bay spreads, surrounded by a wreath of arid grey 221 A Woman's Winter in Africa rocks, and marvellous swirls of sand-dunes created by the wind, which is renowned here. The sand and rock resemble a sea, and geologists think that centuries ago this land must have been the bottom of a great ocean or river bed. Back of the town are the Recreation Grounds and the race track of Boerenkamp. Liiederitzbucht is not to be outdone by other towns, and has its race meetings on holidays, but as yet there is no theatre. From the hill the entire panorama -showed distinctly, including Shark Island, on which is erected a large hospital. Returning to Frieda I found her smaller sister had arrived, the Linda, another coaster. The ship seems mine, as the Captain is dining out on the Linda and I am at present the only passenger. The first officer and I have dinner, after which, alone on deck with " Imp," I enjoy an enchanting sunset, which throws pink and lilac cloaks over the rocks and sands; then, as if not satisfied with its effects, covers them with golden mantles and contentedly seeks an amber rest. On the fo'castle negroes play the Merry Widow Waltz, and as the music floats to me how many pictures it brings of enjoyable dances ! I arrive at the conclusion that it is not at all bad to have the first-class deck to oneself — one can at least think one's own thoughts instead of listening wearily to uninteresting theories, or enduring the terrible ennui which some people impose on good- nature by insisting on reciting uninteresting adventures of their entire family, whom you don't know and never want to. 222 CHAPTER XXXIII Colmanskop Diamond Fields AT seven o'clock precisely I was ready on the entrance jetty to ii make my long-anticipated visit to the diamond fields. I never mind how inconvenient the hour is if the result is worth it. This experience certainly was. In a few moments six horses with a light two-seated carriage dashed round the corner, accompanied by three clogs. Seated inside were Mayor Kreplin and H.M. Consul Mr. Miiller. It was an imposing sight. The six horses, with their driver cracking his whip, carried one's thoughts back to coach - ing and pioneering J ' ' ' ' - *s- days. I climbed up and took my place on the back seat beside Consul Miiller. It was a heavenly day — not a cloud in a pellucid sky ; the cool morning breeze off the sea, miles of rock and sand- dunes producing an exhilarating effect. The driver sounded his lash again, the horses plunged, and off we dashed. Town is soon left behind, and we sweep over the sand and invade a world of mountain, hill* and dale composed of disintegrated pulverized rock. As far as the eye can reach this arid desert sweeps away to the horizon, now looming high in distant frowning mountains, and again subsiding into soft valleys filled with finest sand. The idea came to me how terrible it would be to lose oneself on this apparently limitless stretch, and I was told that years ago, during the war, an officer and a private carrying valuable papers and a bag of gold for the payment of the soldiers were lost, nothing 2 -> -> o OUR CARRIAGE FOR COLMANSKOP. A Woman's Winter in. Africa ever being heard of them. Naturally at the time everyone talked of the disappearance — it was a nine days' wonder and then dropped. Last year men digging in a sand-dune found the remains of these two men, the money and letters lying in the bag by the officer's bones. Previous to his death he had, like Captain Scott, written of the manner in which death had claimed him — starvation, thirst, and weariness ! Not a green thing lives on the granulated surface, but there are many queer rock plants dry as cinders in various shades, similar in colour to the soil. More than twenty varieties of these plants abound, and how they live without a drop of water should prove an interesting study for botanists. The cne I noticed principally was called Bushman's Candle. It constituted a yellowish brown substance, and tiny pink flowers bloomed on thick stem-like branches. If you light it the odour resembles that of incense ; burn- ing well for some time. I ask about a high ridge which we are approaching as our carriage jolts over rocks and then descends suddenly into deep holes ; for the road, if it can so be called, is most dangerous. Seldom a woman comes here, and the men ride. The ridge was named Colmanskop, and the rich Diamond Company have re- tained it. Colman was a transporter in the old days; his wagon broke down, obliging him to remain, so he lived on the ridge for some time. Another local celebritv is a trader named Ratford, who claims to be the oldest inhabitant of the coast. He took up his abode in i860. '' Do you know that now you are driving over diamonds ? ' smilingly asked Heir Kreplin ; and he went on to explain that we had entered the confines of the Colmanskop Diamond property, which comprises over 4000 hectares of soil. Looking across this vast desert, which one would at once put down as waste land, no 224 AT THE DIAMOND MINES. Colmanskop Diamond Fields one could believe that under the surface there are conjecturally some 800,000 carats of diamonds ! A black boy who had worked al Kimberley told a Pole he believed those pebbles to be diamonds. This man brought the stones to Mr. Staunch, who was the first man who actually discovered the gems, and at once pronounced them the real thing. Immediately he and Herr Kreplin began planning out and organizing what to-day is a great industry, employing 520 natives and a(> white people on this property alone. There are several other companies equally prosperous. I write of the Colmanskop as it is the only one I have seen. Naturally, in 1908, when the outside world obtained an inkling that diamonds were literally to be picked up off the gravel, there followed a great rush to Liiederitzbucht, and a boom set in. In those days they used to pay for their drinks with small diamonds. We are told that in heaven the streets are paved with gold, but certainly this part of the world is going one better — acres strewn with diamonds are beyond the dreams of avarice ! I am indebted to Consul Midler for the following information regarding the supposed genesis of the stones : The origin of the German South-West African diamond is still shrouded in mystery. There seems to be little doubt that they originated in a " pipe " or " pipes," and that their present dis- tribution is due to the action of wind and water. It has been found that, spreading along the coastline as the fields are, from the 28th degree to the 24th degree south, there are gaps in the chain, which would point to diverse centres of distribution. Some geologists hold that the diamonds were washed down the beds of rivers which, though they no longer run, undoubtedly at one time carried large volumes of water to the sea. Diamonds, according to this theory, were deposited in the river silt and rubble which formed secondary deposits, from which in course of time the diamond-bearing gravel was concentrated and distributed by the mechanical action of wind and weather. Another theory is that the "pipes" from which the diamonds come were on the site of the present distributing centres or in the sea. The distribution was carried on by the agencv of the current which flows up the coast. Secondary deposits were formed below the sea-level which subsequently came to the surface, whereupon the formations weathered and the gravel, concentrated by the winds, was distributed still further. There is no doubt p 225 A Woman's Winter in Africa whatever that both wind and water have played a part in the dis- tribution of diamonds. A trace of the Kimberley formation in the Pomona territory, where the larger diamonds are found, would point to the presence of a " pipe " there. It remains to be seen whether such a " pipe " will be discovered, or whether it has been emptied of its contents. Further inland there are a number of blind " pipes," in which no diamonds have been found up to date. The diamonds were discovered in 1908. In that year 39,375 carats, valued at 51,180 marks, were exported. In 1909 the exports were 483,268 carats, valued at 15,435,522 marks. In 191 1 the output was approximately 753,300 carats, valued at 23,200,000 marks. These sandbanks and rocks continue for eighty miles or more inland, until agricultural life begins ; but we have no interest in that just at present. A sudden extra lurch, the wheels right themselves, the dogs bark, and we have arrived. Descending from the carriage we wade th rough gravel and fine sand to a long, deep ditch. Here about 150 boys are shovelling the soil and strata into round sieve receivers three metres in length. At the other end of the sieve two of them turn an iron handle, revolving the receiver. The fine loose sand filters through, leaving pebbles and other substances. This gravel is retained and placed in wooden trays, which are carried up to the machines. There is also a hard stratum running through the soil resembling dry cement ; this too is full of diamonds, tiny rubies, and large garnets. These latter are not used, as they are rather soft and too small to be profitable in working, but they shine and look prettv amidst the other pebbles. The hard stratum has to be first broken up by a ball mill, and then goes through a classifying process. We walked up to the new machines, which are situated on mounds of tailings, and are enclosed by corrugated iron sheds. The gravel is now at the power station, where 22 h.p. oil motors, three of them in this shed, pump up the water. Water is rather expensive, as it is brought from Elizabeth Bay to this property, and stored in tanks, whence it is conducted through iron tubes to the washing sheds, 200 gallons costing 4s. 6d. ; but it is used over and over again, as after running through the gravel the sand filters and cleanses it. Now , by the process of compressed air and water, the gravel passes down funnels into pulsators, worked by air pressure in running water, to large vats with sieve bottoms. Several times the gravel is 226 Colmanskop Diamond Fields washed through and treated in this manner, then finally stacked to await inspection. The different bins of washed gravel are classified into first quality and second. There are two rows of the vats being continually washed and strained. Ilerr Schiechel was the dis- coverer of this process lor working gravel, and lien Kreplin has perfected a patent which has been working a lew months with great success. America profits from the oil which is used by the motors, for 250 cases are required each month, those costing at this distance 8s. 6d. each. I noticed lamps hanging in the different departments, and was told that the work pro- ceeds day and night. The sorting-rooms were to me the most interesting. I stood on one side of a long line of tables, while the natives brought in basins full of the gravel and water. As the solution slopped about it reminded one of diamond soup or gem pudding ! Now, strained through a fine brass sieve, it is brought to the sorting- tables, and turned bottom side up, leaving a sort of round cake. An expert comes in ; he has a small pair of pincers, and THE MAYOR' HERR kreplin ; and h.m. * r ' CONSUL, MR. MULLER. from the centre of the wet gravel he proceeds to pick out the diamonds, which are small and used mostly as settings for larger stones. These are deposited in round brass boxes, which are padlocked. There is an opening on the top of the box, through which the diamond is placed ; a patent closer, and by no amount of shaking will a stone escape from the box. In the distance these vats of wet pebbles look very much like Astrakhan caviare, but as you look closely into them they are beautiful with iridescent colours. It seemed quite a pity that all 227 A Woman's Winter in Africa the tiny garnets and rubies are thrown away in the tailings, being too inconsiderable to work. The diamonds vary in size, but the average is two or three carats, the largest diamond found here weighing five carats. At Pomona, to the south of these mines, and far richer, one stone has been found that tipped the scales at seventeen carats. The stones are of a fine brilliant colour, and glitter even in the rough, while those of Kimberley are much more opaque. These vary in tint — black, pink, green, yellow, and brown having been found. They are sent to Germany for cutting, and although found in practical shapes fifteen per cent, is lost in the cutting. I next investigated the counting-house, where from the safe they brought out a tin box. This receptacle was divided into four compartments in which were thousands of diamonds glittering like imprisoned rainbows. I put my hand in and let the stones fall through my fingers. They were indeed beautiful ; and the thought came to me, Who are destined to adorn themselves with these bits of carbon that have lain for centuries in a river or river bed ? Perhaps the fair white hand of a princess will carry them ; they may encircle the throat of a beautiful actress ; or find their way into a home where there had been constant saving to purchase some long-coveted ring for its mistress. In the United States it is the ambition of nearly every shop-girl to possess a diamond of some sort, and they will deprive themselves of many necessities in order to satisfy this cherished desire. It would be interesting if these little stones could write their experiences as they pass on through the different vicissitudes of their life ! This box contained the pickings of a week except to-day's, Saturday's, findings, and the contents were valued at £3500. Every Saturday the diamonds are taken to the Company's offices at Luederitzbucht and guarded in their safes until exported to Europe. The scales for weighing the diamonds were interesting, the smallest weights being so minute that they were placed under glass to keep the tiny gold-leaf bits from blowing away. The Colmanskop Diamond Mining Company, Ltd., was organized four vears ago with a capital of £125,000 in £1 shares. These shares are now quoted at £2. Last year the shareholders received thirty per cent, on their investment. During the short period in which the Company has been established 152 per cent, in divi- dends has been paid. 228 Colmanskop Diamond Fields \\V (how to different points of the pfopei ty where other gangs of workmen were engaged, and the process of extracting diamonds was continued on the same lines. The terrible winds which prevail in this part of the country shift the sands continually. Mr. Miiller suggested that Boreas was the best worker the Company possessed, as he was constantly changing the lie of the land, and exposing rich alluvial soil which had been hidden for centuries. Herr Kreplin wished me to see the men's quarters, and also the natives'. These natives of Ovambo, a large territory which lies £k. 'v-^. DIAMOND-WASHING MACHINES. to the north, are well paid and carefully looked after. Thev earn from 20s. to 25s. a month, and are housed in clean tin buildings. Every tiling is provided, and they have their own cooks and dining- rooms. Half a pound of meat is allowed to each per day, and as much other food-cereals and mealies as they wish ; Kaffir beer, of which they are very fond, is also brewed for them. They enjoy better rations here than in their own land. When they arrive they are very thin, but are in much better condition on their return. A hospital is provided for the sick. I entered and found the floors were of clean boards, along the sides being a row of small 229 A Woman's Winter in Africa iron beds and benches. There were perhaps ten or fifteen invalids stretched out and rolled up in a profusion of blankets. Most of them were suffering with cold or stomach trouble, and two or three had pneumonia . A man-nurse or doctor is resident on the premises, and twice a week the " Great Doctor " comes out from town. The natives work from nine to ten hours a day, and their contract with the mines is for six months ; afterwards they return for a holiday in their own country, their fare back and forth being paid by the Company. Herr Kreplin told me that at Pomona, when diamonds were first discovered, in one day forty men picked up over a thousand diamonds. There the stones are somewhat larger and more plenti- ful. They had lain for ages on the surface of the soil, and had been constantly trodden over, no one suspecting their value. The white men on this mine receive £15 to £20 a month. I also had a look at their quarters ; they have their kitchens and all is provided for them. Herr Kreplin is the soul of hospitality, and has some rooms set apart for the Directors' use. Here we adjourned, and enjoyed a well-cooked and nicely served meal ; after which the visitors' book was shown us. It contained the signatures of Royalty and many other distinguished names. The drive back was unique and delightful. The six horses, having had a long rest, jostled us over the rough way in quick time. The dogs had kept with us, and must have been tired ; however, they raced back dauntlessly. I called to say adieu to Frau Kreplin, and admired her charming home ; also some fine water-colours of the desert where the diamonds lie. There was a most interesting picture of Luederitz- bucht in its infant days. These were all the work of Herr Ericsson, whose art I have a distinct liking for, as he gets the sweep of the country admirably. I next paid a visit to our Consul, Mr. Miiller, and enjoyed a chat. It was a feeling of comfort to be once more on English ground. He very kindly saw me off to the launch ; and now Frieda is rolling again, this time towards Swakopmund. 230 CHAPTER XXXIV Arrival at Swakopmund UPON calling at the Woermann office at Swakopmund T was disagreeably surprised to learn that the s.s. Edward Woer- mann, which I was supposed to board, had sailed north, in con- sequence of the copper cargo not being ready. To my mind Edward has behaved very unkindly in leaving me behind on the sands of Swakopmund. The members of the Woermann family whom I know appear at least impulsive. For instance, Adolph arrived two days late, though he was certainly perfect afterwards ; Frieda proved to be a frolicsome babv ; «i and now Edward had run away. The clerk politely informs me that there is no steamer sailing along the West Coast for at least three weeks or a month, though there should be a ship every fortnight. To me the circumstance is trying. In the first place, it is spring in my own country, and I shall not see the beautiful early flowers in my Hampstead garden, where multitudes of bulbs were planted. After travelling many months I wish to get home, and as there are yet many places on the West Coast I must visit I regret to waste a moment of valuable time. Oh, " Imp of Travel," why have you not arranged better for your devoted follower ? Patience I must cultivate ; there is nothing to do but wait, and Swakopmund boasts few attractions. I can, however, travel to Windhuk and pass some time seeing the interior. KAISERHOF HOTEL, 231 A Woman's Winter in Africa My next ship will be the Steiermark, 8000 tons, a brand-new cargo-boat of the Hamburg-Amerika Linie, this being her first trip. She has arrived in the roadstead, and is already discharging cirgo, after which she calls at Liiederitzbucht, and returns, expect- ing to sail somewhere about the first of April. In the office I asked all sorts of questions regarding my next floating home, because this ship has no accommodation for pas- sengers, and they told me I should be the only voyager. This did not appeal to me. How dull and unpleasant it will be, I picture introspectively. A long voyage in the tropics with only the cap- tain to speak to ; and he cannot devote much time personally, as the management of the ship requires his attention. It came to my mind to ask what kind of man this captain was, for if he possessed a bearish temperament, and I had to sit at his table for weeks, I should indeed be miserable. The man whom I had been questioning was short and broadly built . He was perhaps fifty years of age, with bronzed, pleasant face, and wearing a brown beard. At the moment he was sorting some papers with his back towards me ; he turned round, an odd whimsical twinkle in his eyes. " The captain of the Steiermark9 Oh, yes ; he is a very nice fellow indeed — I am he." For an instant I was spell-bound with amazement ; then everyone in the office, myself included, burst into laughter. The ice was, however, broken, and I made the acquaintance of my next sailor-host. 232 CHAPTER XXXV Waljish Bay WHEN I said adieu to Frieda Woermann I concluded that our acquaintance was at an end. If Frieda had stopped at Walfish Bay — which she might just as well have done, as it is only eighteen miles from Swakopmund, and we passed it coming up sat "*► FOOTPRINTS ON THE SANDS OF TIME, WALFISH BAY. the coast — I should have saved £2 10s.; but Frieda has never been considerate. I have always cherished a great desire to see Walfish Bay — our territory, which is situated on the front doorstep, so to speak, of Swakopmund. Politically speaking, this is a most im- portant spot ; for a more trifling cause than this out-of-the-way 1 "? ^ A Woman's Winter in Africa place, Walfish Bay, a bone of contention in past history, wars have been declared. It is natural that Germany looks upon this pos- session of ours with envious eyes, although, to speak truthfully, it is the most depressing and uninviting site I have ever seen. It has a great treasure though, a good harbour, consisting of